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wildebill308

Sway Bar Bushings Bad

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When I was under my coach doing the annual oil and filter change on the generator I noticed the bushings on the sway bar connecting rods were well used.

I had read on one of the forums about using bushings from AutoZone I did a little research and came up with this kit. Part number 9.8105R. My main mounting bushings look to be in good shape.

This is a pretty strait forward swap old for new. The only problem is the new bushings are tight and need a little persuasion to go over the rods. I do recommend thinning the bushings as they are thicker than originals. There is a raised area and I would take that and about .300 off to give a better fit. Otherwise it is hard to get the nut started. When I got my nut tightened down so the thread was through the locking devise they were pretty well compressed.

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Yup, they have been long-gone. So that sway bar is getting a "free ride"/not helping control sway.

Replace them with Polyurethane bushings-- you will need all 8 of them.

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Good job.

Welcome back to the "way less sway" camp.

A very easy thing to check visually and also easy to replace. Only tools are a pair of vice grips to keep the end link from turning and a wrench to remove the top and bottom nut. As long as you are on flat ground, no need for jacks, etc. You can lower and raise the sway bar with your little finger as long as the two wheels are on the same level.

If the main bushings need to be replaced, be sure to lube them. The marine green, sticky grease works great.

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One thing I didn't mention when you have the connector links out there is a long and short end to them. fortunately mine are stamped with a T so I knew how to re install it. You can visually compare them as it is about a 1/2 inch difference. The main bushings looked good. I didn't have any of the marine green, sticky grease so I used a silicone dry film lube. I will probably replace them next winter when I do my next annual. I haven't found a Polyurethane bushing for the main ones yet.

Bill

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