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Inverter On or Off, When Charging Generator?

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cessnadrvr2000,

Just had a conversation with you inverter manufacture to see if I could clear up some questions I had regarding the inverters operation.

The inverter can be set to the on mode and it will stay on all the time producing 120 volts.

This will ensure that there is always 120 volts to item that you want to keep powered up.

Search mode. This is the setting where the unit will start producing 120 volt with a load of 5 watts.

The 5 watt level is the factory preset level. At this level the load of the microrwave clock circuit should trigger the inverter to provide 120 volts.

The power trigger level can be set using the remote to a different level selected by each user.

The dropout from shore power is instant. The dropout when using the generator is not instantaneous, the spool down time of the generator causes a gradual decrease in the AC voltage level and the default level voltage is set at 80 Volts for the inverter to start supplying AC power.

Should you have issues with the satellite receiver resetting, the dropout point for the inverter can be reset to 90 volts AC. This should stop the problem of the system powering down.

The Max Fans are DC powered and if the heaters for the refrigerator are off, there is a good possibility the load is below the trigger point. One needs to remember that as soon as Shore power or Generator power is lost, the refrigerator is going to start the transition to LP and just maybe it is happening quicker then the load sensor can react.

In your case - you have a standard home stile refrigerator(if I understand your information)and if the unit is not calling for the compressor to be running - the load detected would be much less..

You might try to connect something that meets the required load and see what happens. If it does not start to produce 120 volts - there is the possibility that the preset level was inadvertently set to a higher level.

Just had an AH Ha moment. The fans for the Roof AC units run on 120 volts, so one might try to have just the fans running on them and see if that load will trigger the search mode to start the inverter!

Once you know that the required load is present and by chance the unit does not start. It might be time to call the factory service center and see what they suggest.

The time I spent on the phone with one of there technicians was informative and got the feeling they where more then willing to provide the information needed.

Rich.

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Any one have a clue what singlepath Delay means on my ATS while running off 15AMP shore power?

cessnadrvr2000,

Are you getting the message on your EMS(energy management system)display? And if so who's system is installed in your coach?

I will take a guess that the system is looking at you load and what is turned on compared to your priority setting order setup on the EMS.

Could be the system is deciding if the generator needs to be started, if you have a auto start setup for the generator so the load demand needs the larger current the generator could supply beyond the limited shore power current.

Rich.

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Rich,

Yes, it is on my ATS panel in the coach which is part of the EMS system for the New 2016 Bounder.

According to the manual it is an Intelletics management system, I have been on line to their web site but under "ATS" they don't appear to have a info page or manual with fault codes. I am not sure it is even a fault, reading on the EMS it appears to be prioritizing the single A/C unit on this power configuration. The A/C will momentarily kick on and the fan runs, as soon as the condenser kicks in it will shut off and wait about 2 to 3 minutes then try to come on again. I have watched the load at the ATS and it indicates about 14-16 AMPS which the 120volt -15 AMP shore supply should be able to handle.

I am not tripping my GFIC on my house side and am insuring no other load is present on that power outlet. From just what i found it would appear that the EMS is shutting the system down to prevent electrical damage to the A/C and that means all is working correctly. I just have this message that says "singlePath Delay" on the ATS screen when I go to scroll thru my loads and amps pull on L1 and L2 status.

My coach is extremely hot in the front half during the day and i am just a little concerned about the high heat inside when it is in storage mode. I have my MAXXFAN's set to kick on at 86 degrees and one is IN and the other is OUT to pull air thru the coach. It appears they are keeping the heat down in the MID to Rear area (where they are primarily) but the front half is running 100+ during the late afternoon

P.S. I do not have an AGS system installed at this time; however, even if i did it would be deactivated in storage mode.

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Rich,

Yes, it is on my ATS panel in the coach which is part of the EMS system for the New 2016 Bounder.

According to the manual it is an Intelletics management system, I have been on line to their web site but under "ATS" they don't appear to have a info page or manual with fault codes. I am not sure it is even a fault, reading on the EMS it appears to be prioritizing the single A/C unit on this power configuration. The A/C will momentarily kick on and the fan runs, as soon as the condenser kicks in it will shut off and wait about 2 to 3 minutes then try to come on again. I have watched the load at the ATS and it indicates about 14-16 AMPS which the 120volt -15 AMP shore supply should be able to handle.

I am not tripping my GFIC on my house side and am insuring no other load is present on that power outlet. From just what i found it would appear that the EMS is shutting the system down to prevent electrical damage to the A/C and that means all is working correctly. I just have this message that says "singlePath Delay" on the ATS screen when I go to scroll thru my loads and amps pull on L1 and L2 status.

My coach is extremely hot in the front half during the day and i am just a little concerned about the high heat inside when it is in storage mode. I have my MAXXFAN's set to kick on at 86 degrees and one is IN and the other is OUT to pull air thru the coach. It appears they are keeping the heat down in the MID to Rear area (where they are primarily) but the front half is running 100+ during the late afternoon

P.S. I do not have an AGS system installed at this time; however, even if i did it would be deactivated in storage mode.

Thanks for the reply!

The current reading is correct, now take a look at the line voltage. I have a feeling it is in the area of 112 volts and just on the line where the EMS is sensing a total power requirement just a little over what is being supplied.

Question - When you use the 15 amp outlet are you using an adapter between the outlet and the 50 amp cable; or a extension cord?

The cord needs to be 12 Gage wire-better if it is 10 Gage.

The voltage drop in the cord can put you below the required current / voltage combination.

You could try to start the AC unit after dark when the line voltage would be higher and see it it starts.

Also, try connecting to a 20 amp outlet.

Rich

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Rich,

My answers are in blue I hope ..... I am still trying to figure out how you are posting my comment in your reply LOL

The current reading is correct, now take a look at the line voltage. I have a feeling it is in the area of 112 volts and just on the line where the EMS is sensing a total power requirement just a little over what is being supplied. ----You are correct I am seeing right at 112 volts.

Question - When you use the 15 amp outlet are you using an adapter between the outlet and the 50 amp cable; or a extension cord? -- I am presently using a 50 AMP to 30 AMP to 15 AMP and extension cord from 15 AMP house outlet for shore power.

The cord needs to be 12 Gage wire-better if it is 10 Gage. I'll have to check my extension cord gauge but it is a heavy cord.
The voltage drop in the cord can put you below the required current / voltage combination.
You could try to start the AC unit after dark when the line voltage would be higher and see it it starts.
Also, try connecting to a 20 amp outlet. Not available but I am seriously thinking of having an electrician come out in the spring and install a 30 AMP exterior outlet just so I can have good shore power during storage times.

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Make sure your electrician understands that a 30 RV outlet is 120 VAC, not 240 VAC.

Said another way, ONE hot, one neutral and one ground.

Very different from home stove or dryer 30 amp wiring.

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cessnadrvr2000,

Good information in your reply!

When you have the 30 amp service installed, get a price on a 50 amp circuit also.
Brett, mentioned the difference in the RV 30 amp circuit and what most electricians consider a 220 volt style circuit plug.

AS mentioned it is wired with one hot, one neutral and one ground. NO 2 hot wires, that will do in much of the coach equipment and wiring!!!

Should you decide on the 50 amp circuit, please ask how that circuit is wired for the coach!

How I attach your post to the reply - In the bottom right corner of the post one makes is a box labeled Quote. Click on it and open your reply.

The information will be attached to your response.

By the way, you are doing just fine regarding your questions and responses!!!!


Rich.

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cessnadrvr2000,

Should you decide on the 50 amp circuit, please ask how that circuit is wired for the coach!

Rich.

Shouldn't be ANY question on how to wire an RV 50 amp outlet:

Duplex 50 amp breakers at home main box (two hots, 240 VAC between them).

4 wire:

2 hots, L1 and L2 to the two outer straights

1 neutral from house neutral buss bar to center straight

1 ground from house ground buss bar to center round.

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You may have a built in protection from shore power and if it senses that the power voltage drops too low when the compressor kicks on it will shut power to it. 3 minutes sounds about right for compressor protection. I have a progressive unit install in my coach and will do the same thing on 15 amps. It would be best to run the generator when using the air conditioner as the 15 amps you are getting is to little.

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You may have a built in protection from shore power and if it senses that the power voltage drops too low when the compressor kicks on it will shut power to it. 3 minutes sounds about right for compressor protection. I have a progressive unit install in my coach and will do the same thing on 15 amps. It would be best to run the generator when using the air conditioner as the 15 amps you are getting is to little.

Thanks Ray,

That is what I am reading into it as well by all the great post and literature I have on the ATS. Also my voltage appears to be dropping to around 108 volts on the compressor draw. I think Rich is right and a heavy gauge extension cord would supply the required voltage. I did go back and look at my set up and I am on a 20 AMP breaker from my house, so it should actually carry one A/C unit running to keep the coach a bit cooler. I never see more than 18AMP on my panel in the short time the compressor will run but the voltage drop is pretty significant at the EMS.

Obviously running my generator in a storage situation was not an option as a long term power solution and I was just new trying to get a handle on how exactly I want to store my coach during none use periods.

The EMS and Inverter set up is pretty amazing and making sure I am in the right configuration to keep my batteries and coach in the best setup as possible while i am not using it is my over all goal.

I have read in depth on the new Lithium batteries and when my Manufacture's set up has run its useful life spaN will probably switch the house battery set up completely out for them. Since at the present I am not looking at a lot of boondocking I am not looking at adding an AGS or solar set up .

Thank you all for the great response, it has been well worth the membership already!!!

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