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wayne77590

Velvac 714881 Mirror

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I have the Velvac 714881 mirror and the driver side mirror is wobbling on the shaft that goes into the support. For some reason I cannot loosen or tighten the set screw. Someone could have lock-tighted. I'm afraid to put more pressure than normal for fear of breaking the pot metal that surrounds it.

The set screw goes into a half moon washer that pushes against the pivot. Loosening it would allow the mirror to rotate. The positioning of the mirror is okay but I am worried about the wobble going down the highway. It is at least an 1/8 of an inch or more play. I cannot lift it upward. I tried shimming it with different substances, washers, etc. but I cannot get a substance around the support arm and the upper mirror and if I did the mirror shell is plastic and may crack.

My last resort is Gorilla Tape down the back side of the mirror and around the support arm to keep it from damaging itself ( if it is damaging). That should keep some pressure on it until I can get somewhere that can replace/fix it. Darn mirror cost $350+.

Any suggestions.

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Wayne, Not sure this will help but you might try this link for some information.

http://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/owners_manual_-_2025_2030_and_revolution_mirrors_7138002.11.pdf

I have a very small butane torch that might work to heat the set screw that I bought at Lowes. The flame is very small and it can be focused on a small area.

If you can just get the set screw to move just a little bit an work some oil into the threads. You might be able to get it loose.

This link might lead you to some parts ?

http://www.prvparts.com/velvac-mirrors-s/1835.htm

Rich.

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Is it that the glass wobbles due to excessive vibration of the arm? When I experienced the wobble or vibration of the center mirror/glass I chaulked [with clear adhesive chaulk] the top and bottom of the area where the arm enters the mounting bracket-- as it attaches to the cap. The chaulk provided a perfect cushion to absorb the vibration--the results were achieved--nor more shaking or wobbling when driving.

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Wayne,
Several things you may try. First try taking a small punch, one that will go into the hex set screw without bing forced. Take a hammer and strike the punch several times. This can shock the threads from either rust or thread lock. Another is to use heat as Rich suggested.

Take a hex key (Allen Wrench) that fits the set screw. Insert the hex key and holding the key with pliers and apply the heat allowing the heat to be transmitted to the set screw. The heat will expand the set screw and as it cools it will retract loosening the set screw.

Also there is impact tool that will take a socket with the correct key. Tool is twisted and struck with a hammer. The twist and impact should loosen the set screw.
Sorry to be so long.

Herman

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Wayne,

Things to try.

Small punch that will fit inisde the set screw. Strike with a hammer several times. This will shock the threads and loosen them.

Heat like Rich said, but put the correct size hex key into the set screw. Hold the key with pliers and apply heat to the key. This will transmit the heat to the screw, loosen the screw without damaging the Chrome.

A impact tool. It will take a socket with the correct key size. When inserted into the screw, twisted and struck with a hammer it will shock the threads and loosen the set screw.

Hope one of these works for you.

Herman

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Thank you all for the good suggestions.

All one needs is "time" to do some of those things, or lack of on-hand equipment. So, today I purchased some items and one was the shims one finds in the windows and door frames department of a hardware store. I wedged them in there, marked the spot, used my trusty utility tool on my belt cut, carved and fitted the shims under both sides of the mirror frame and support arm. Wrapped it with extreme tape (good stuff) and it does not wobble. I'll keep my eye on it going down the road and when we get back home I'll have it worked on or replaced.

Thanks for all the information and if we get stopped somewhere that I can use the info, I'll give it a try.

I posted on a different forum and the suggestions were about the same, as my reply is the same, hee hee. (Thank you cut and paste)

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I just happen to be working on a similar problem today. My right side mirror kept vibrating out of position. I found that some one in the past had totally striped the set screw. It was so bad it wouldn't come out just spin in the hole. The comment about using a impact may cause more damage than help. I would only try backing it out. The part is made of soft aluminum. I was going to use a Helicoil type repair but the threads and the hole were past that. I am going to the next size allen screw.

Bill

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Thanks Carl and Bill. I believe the shims are going to keep it from vibrating (wobbling) and that should be enough to not damage the pivot point. I will try some of the suggestions but not the heat ones. I'm leery that my inexperience would set the MH on fire. LOL.

My next trip down the road is about 275 miles and I'll keep an eye on it. I'll have time at the next sto to try some of the suggestions.

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Thanks Carl and Bill. I believe the shims are going to keep it from vibrating (wobbling) and that should be enough to not damage the pivot point. I will try some of the suggestions but not the heat ones. I'm leery that my inexperience would set the MH on fire. LOL.

My next trip down the road is about 275 miles and I'll keep an eye on it. I'll have time at the next sto to try some of the suggestions.

One thing I did to stabilize my mirror was to install a plastic wire tie around the bottom probably where you have the shims. I used a fairly heavy tie and pulled it with vise grips and pushed the lock to get it as tight as I could. It slowed down the vibration and helped to keep it in place.

Bill

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Wayne,

Finally got around to finishing my repair of the allen screw on my mirror. Going back to your first post, yes the allen screw has a type of Locktite on it. I would try backing it out first. you might try a little penetrating oil to. When you get home or where you can work on it you might try heating it with a electric soldering iron. just hold the tip to the center of the screw. I took the screw out of the other side to check it out. it came out but needed a fair amount of force.

As I posted earlier the threads and hole size were beyond what a helicoil would repair. I went with a 1/2 -13. The only problem was finding a bottom or plug tap, all the taps I could find were start taps with a long lead. The problem is I couldn't get the tap threads all the way through the hole. The long lead hit the shaft of the mirror I was able to move the shaft and the plastic part up but couldn't get it through. I ended up cutting the lead off a start tap to finish the thread job. Simple job ended up taking a couple days instead of 30 min.

One thing I found was the screw that was screwed up was half the length of the one on the other side. I wonder how that happened.

Good luck on your project, I know exactly how frustrating it is having a mirror not stay put.

Bill

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Wayne if there is locktite on the set screw it would be best to apply heat to melt the compound. After that it will come loose if you turn before it cools. You don't have to go crazy with the heat, just a use a hand held butane torch like used on crimp and seal wire terminals. Apply heat to set screw only.

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Wayne if there is locktite on the set screw it would be best to apply heat to melt the compound. After that it will come loose if you turn before it cools. You don't have to go crazy with the heat, just a use a hand held butane torch like used on crimp and seal wire terminals. Apply heat to set screw only.

That is why I said to use a electric solder iron as you can apply heat to the screw only. A hand held torch is a little less discriminate.

Bill

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Bill We have the technology as you will see in the next link. This puts out a pencil point flame more narrow than your bic lighter and is faster and safer than solder iron that stays hot when your done. Cost less too.

https://jet.com/product/b35f5c5565934dc8b86d69ba84beb4ab?jcmp=pla:ggl:hardware_other:hardware_tools_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=d4a69d98-22e0-4945-a8e3-de15fe85bc79&kpid=b35f5c5565934dc8b86d69ba84beb4ab&gclid=Cj0KEQjwx_WuBRDJ7tSK2-W0pJkBEiQAEWgR8FS1CAEhpkzh4SK8GEKxhzkusNFuoHQB_UirBVXRfJoaAuXi8P8HAQ

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Thanks for all the good information.

We made the 274 mile trip with the shims and tape to hold the shims in place. All is well. No wobble. I'll keep my eye on it for the rest of the trip and if it starts to wobble - gorilla tape is on the horizon.

Thanks.

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Bill We have the technology as you will see in the next link. This puts out a pencil point flame more narrow than your bic lighter and is faster and safer than solder iron that stays hot when your done. Cost less too.

https://jet.com/product/b35f5c5565934dc8b86d69ba84beb4ab?jcmp=pla:ggl:hardware_other:hardware_tools_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=d4a69d98-22e0-4945-a8e3-de15fe85bc79&kpid=b35f5c5565934dc8b86d69ba84beb4ab&gclid=Cj0KEQjwx_WuBRDJ7tSK2-W0pJkBEiQAEWgR8FS1CAEhpkzh4SK8GEKxhzkusNFuoHQB_UirBVXRfJoaAuXi8P8HAQ

With a flame you are going to damage the paint. With the electric soldering iron you are just applying heat to the set screw and not likely to damage the paint.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=328-1244&cm_mmc=SEM-_-GGL-_-PLA-_-NA&003=18299132&010=328-1244&mkwid=s|dc&pcrid=43172597894&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6vquBRCow62uo-_J_YYBEiQAMO6HigvAy8FG2l8gFftV0bntwEXh-O6T--xcJAg-8zdszM0aAin88P8HAQ

Bill

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I carry a soldering iron with me, but I'll still wait until I get back home. It's not wobbling now and if I screw somthing up I'd like to be where I can put it in the shop and not worry about it. Also, at the house I have a 1200 watt soldering iron. It will fix radiators. Problem is the tip is most likely to big.

Worse case scenario is I'm out a few beers and pay for a new mirror support/system.

Thanks all.

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Run extension cord to mirror to plug in solder iron. Plug in solder iron and wait ten minutes for it to warm up. Apply solder iron for another ten minutes to set screw to heat warm enough. Set solder iron on non flammable surface so it won't catch anything on fire when done for 30 minutes. Wind up extension core and put it away.

Press micro torch button for instant flame. Apply pencil flame to screw for about one minute. Release micro torch button to turn flame off. Put micro torch into shirt pocket. Have a beer with all the time you saved.

I'm just having fun with you Bill, I guess it's time to let it go and do it the way you want. I can't remember the last time I use the confounded solder iron in the bottom drawer?

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Wayne, That sounds like a plan. If it is staying put you shouldn't have any problems. This is a simple repair I doubt you need a new base. Never waste beer money. I removed the opisat side screw and it was tight but didn't need heat. Just remember it is in aluminum and you can strip the threads. Even if you did the repair is simple.

Ray, hold my beer and hand me that rosebud torch I can have this screw hot in 10 seconds, so what if you need to repaint the front of the coach. :o;):D

Bill

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What we did in CO before I left, is take out the screw and drilled 1/16" into arm, replace screw and tightened. Had to re tighten today.

The worst road I have been on in years! I-40E in the last 60 miles of Arkansas! :angry: I thought I-10, between Lafayette and Henderson Bayou, LA was the pits...it's as soft as a pillow!!! :lol:

Carl <_<

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Carl, You can keep that set screw from vibrating loose by using a drop of Loctite blue(removable). You can use a little of your wife's nail polish on the threads. Not to much because this isn't as easy to get out later.

Bill

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Thanks Bill.

I'll use Loctite. I don't have any nail polish....no female in sight.

The girlfriends that I do have, figured out real quick, don't leave anything behind that you would like to see again! :D

Carl

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