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Loss Of Coach Battery Power

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2005 Fleetwood Expedition diesel. When battery power to both coach and chassis turned off at main panel, coach batteries still discharge?? Standing next to toilet in rear I can hear buzzing from electrical running?

Why are batteries discharging. And/or what would still be running with both battery switches off.

Dudley

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Dudley,

The best way to stop battery drain is to disconnect both cables from each of your chassis batteries.
However if you can use a trickle charger you can keep them charged.

Herman

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This may seem ridiculous to many but I have had chassis battery discharge issues off and on for last two years... have now put in third new set of batteries in past 2 years .. so yes, it's been an issue...

I have replaced the alternator, replaced the main disconnect switch twice, first disconnected the inline fuse - then totally removed the Battery minder that was with the coach .. and most recently installed the Amp-L Start.

Over the past 2 years, 4 shops, plus a mobile tech have tested all parasite draws, and amps drawn from all leads out of the chassis batteries both with the main disconnect on and with it off... all conclusions showed normal as expected .. first two times it occurred, I had the batteries replaced under their warranty as being defective.... even I don't believe that anymore.

My most recent and current theory which I am going to watch very closely and document conditions, then resolve is. I have noticed the batteries first show discharge after some time sitting .. and after rainfall... In looking at the last two sets on batteries in there ( Delco 950CCA class31?) and now another set of replacements, is that the entire top of the battery is wet.. On the set I have now, the center of the battery top has a built in battery handle which holds almost 1/2" of water and the entire surface is fully linked by wet surface. Both posts have a flat bar that connects to the posts and extends to where the outbound cable is connected to a post on it.

In any case, my theory is that these batteries are draining at some unknown rate due to water physically connecting the posts. I believe the Amp-L Start can handle this drain but suspect it was far more that the little 1- 1.2 A battery minder could handle.

It seems there has been mention of this issue mostly on marine batteries but it seems to make sense as a possibility to me. This could explain why the drain whether the disconnect is on - or off.... Can't stop them from getting wet .. but...

My resolution is going to be to "tilt these batteries from their frame holder - and or - dry them off, tape a piece of rubber insulation gasket across the top as a water "dam" to avoid possible drain because of that... suspect that if there was a gasket or felt material under the flat post connecting bars, that might work also...

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Just learned the hard way how my "battery switch" inside actually works. I must have switched the battery switch off which is located in the entrance to the interior which resulted in the house batteries draining, even while it's plugged in and displaying "float charge" on the xantrex display. One would think it was wired so it just cuts power to the interior and still allows the house batteries to charge, but not the case.

What really baffles me is I have two master battery switches in the back of the unit in the electrical management bay which open the positive battery cables to each battery bank (chassis and house) Why have one in the back and one up front for the house batteries?

I am considering bypassing the switch up front so when you come through the door with stuff in your hand the switch doesn't get bumped accidentally and shut down the house batteries.

Any thoughts?

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Particularly if you are in the coach/full timing, bypassing the "salesman switch" is a fine idea.

Some are mechanical, some are switches that control a relay.

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I leave them on all the time so the chassis and house batteries stay happy. Especially since the coach is always plugged in when not in use. Now it's time to remove the one in the front and forget about it so it doesn't get bumped again.

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Joe.

I had that same switch by the door on my Allegro Bus and had it moved to a cabinet above the co-pilot seat as I did not have one in bay!

Love Engineers....not !

Carl

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Carl, great idea. Since there are two master switches in the back I am either going to bypass it or remove it and place it behind the switch plate and just leave it in the on position. Funny everytime I go to switch on the stair well lights I always press the wrong one (only two switches in that spot) and I'm standing in the dark. Never understood why it was there in the fist place, since Brett called it a salesman switch it now makes sense. So far the batteries bounced back ok so I am happy for that. I will have to keep my eye on them.

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I would love to have Brett or another expert walk around this coach and digest its oddity and gadgets and tell me if its normal to be set up the way it is.

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The only standard in motorhomes is there is no standard. They will vary in the same model and during the model year. :wacko::rolleyes::D

Bill

Kind of true Bill ! As long as the coach builders meet all the safety standards set by the industry, they can do change things around as needed to get each model assembled in a way to connect all the hardware and systems.

Rich

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We have a 2015 Tiffin Allegro Open Road. We don't store it for long periods of time but we seem to drain the coach batteties after about 10 days to 2 weeks even though we turn off the 12v switch at the entry steps. We have access to 120 ac power in the storage unit. Is there a problem leaving the unit plugged in to the 120v power while stored in order to avoid draining the batteries?

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diron1014,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

Yes, if you have a smart charger, AND is it properly programmed, you can leave it plugged in 24/7.

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Thanks for the welcome. Obviously we are "newbies" at Class A rv'ing and my husband tells me I asked the question incorrectly. What we want to know is - is it harmful for us to leave the coach plugged into 120v 24/7 for a period of 3 to 4 weeks at least?

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If your coach has an inverter/charger or a smart charger (tapers the charge as the batteries near full charge and won't overcharge them) then you should be able to leave the coach plugged in 24/7 for as long as you want. Most modern coaches have this kind of charger. If you are talking about a simple charger that you connect to batteries to give them a jump start, that charger will generally overcharge the batteries if left on for long periods of time.

Our coach is plugged in all winter long. When we unplug, it's ready to go. All the batteries, chassis and house, are fully charged.

A short read of your owners manual or a call to your manufacturers technical department should assure you if you are uncertain.

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