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Starting A Cold Diesel Engine

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When starting a Diesel engine (Cat C7 ) that hasn't run for 3-4 weeks in cold weather should you depress the accelerator pedal or not? Engine is 2005 model.

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In a word, no.

For any diesel-- if you have shore power-- turn on block heater 1-2 hours before starting.

If batteries are not up to snuff, helps to turn on generator to charger batteries AND run the block heater.

Doesn't hurt to cycle key (activates intake manifold heater) twice, then start.

NEVER use ether with any modern diesel-- ether an red hot intake manifold heaters DO NOT MIX.

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I don't know if you should give it fuel or not but I did this weekend.

I have a 2005 C7 myself. I'm in Minnesota and I fire up my motor and run the genset for awhile every couple of weeks. It's finally been cool up here and the motor didn't turn over easy this time. She wanted to fire up but kept dying out. I gave it a little fuel after turning it over and it fired up. I nursed it along with a little bit of pedal till it ran smooth.

Do you have winter blend fuel in the tanks? The blends of fuel change with the temps. I did find an additive to help with gelling. I got it at O'Rileys.

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With your C7, if sitting a couple of weeks, it is possible that fuel pressure bled off. If you have the Caterpillar manual primer pump, would be a good idea to use it (unscrew the knurl nut, pump until hard and screw it back clockwise).

And, slow cranking speed suggests low battery voltage. Starting the generator 30 minutes before starting the main engine will allow our inverter/charger to bring the batteries up some. The block heater is a good additional load on the generator and will aid in starting the engine. And, using the boost/combine switch will bring all batteries into the starting circuit-- a good idea unless the house batteries are also deeply discharged.

Lastly, do NOT start any diesel engine unless you can drive a minimum of 25 highway miles-- long enough to get the oil, not just coolant up to operating temperature. Anything less just adds moisture to the crankcase.

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Brett,

Since the original poster is in Michigan. How about bring everyone that live in the North up to speed on how to handle coaches in storage. We know that some areas get snow that is there till spring. And they aren't able to take their coach out for a 20 to 25 mile drive

Herman

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If you can not drive at least 25 highway miles, DO NOT START THE ENGINE!

Other recommendations:

Use a biocide such as Biobor JF if storing diesel over 2 months in summer or 3 in winter.

If you filled in the summer or fall (i.e. summer grade/#2 diesel) add an anti-gel-- Walmart carries PS brand.

Be sure to run generator and drive coach after putting in additives.

And absolutely, store with the fuel tank full to minimize condensation.

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The accelerator pedal is not connected to anything it is just a control module to tell the computer you want more fuel with the motor not running it does not do a thing. The engine control module will start the motor on its own just by turning the key. There are times that I do not have the time to disconnect everything to drive the coach 20 to 30 miles at that point it is better to start the unit and let it run at a fast idle for a half hour then letting it set for a couple of months. Building the air up or just working the brake petal to move the brake shoes is better than letting it set. Start the generator and work the air and heaters, if something is not working this would be the time to find out not when you are ready to go on a trip. I start mine at least once a month.

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When I start mine over the winter, I sometimes take it for a drive, but more often not. Lot of trouble to remove the lumber under the tires, the oak blocks that the levelers are resting on, maneuver out of a less than perfect sight for a 40' and often deal with snow. I never slow idle during the exercise sessions. I usually use the cruise control to set the engine at 1500rpm for around 45 minutes. Yes mine will idle that high. I know that will upset the anti idle crowd, but when trucking, my sleeper was my hotel. APUs were unreliable and expensive when they were first available. Walmart runs Thermoking units on their fleet now. I would have one if still trucking, even though they come in at nearly $10,000, They are the gold standard in my eyes. My point is that there was a whole lot of idling in the trucking world until the police started enforcing the new rules against it. I always set my truck engine at a grand for heating and cooling comfort, and had no problems because of it. Weather permitting, I put my window screens in or crawled into a sleeping bag sometimes into the 20s. The electronic engines we are most all running in our DPs are very stingy with fuel at idle therefore they idle much cleaner than the mechanical fuel systems of yesteryear. IMHO

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My manual tells me to depress the throttle and release before starting then let the ECU do its thing.

That is for a 1999 3126 Cat

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From my DD engine manual: "The common belief that idling a diesel causes no engine damage is wrong. Idling produces sulfuric acid, which is absorbed by the lubricating oil and eats into bearings, rings, valve stems, and engine surfaces. If you must idle, the high idle function of the cruise control should be used."

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I have a 2015 Discovery 37R. The temperature got down to a chilly 9 degrees last night. I went out to my coach a while ago, and looked at the engine block heater switch. It has a light inside of it. My logic tells me that when the light is off, the block heater is off, and vice versa. What I am scratching my head over is this: on my power monitor panel at the front of the coach, it says that my block heater is ON, but 0 amps. And, it shows that regardless if the block heater switch is ON or OFF. I am baffled by this. Any ideas?

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Bob, what engine do you have in your coach? New technology engine block heaters are thermostatically controlled on some engines, with most manufactures it’s an option. I wonder if you are equipped that way?

Have you used it before? I have noticed in most cases they are unplugged back in the engine area even though there is a switch inside to turn them on and off. I had a sales person tell me its always better to keep in unplugged until you need it.

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Bob,

Assume you are talking about the engine block breaker on the main breaker panel-- if so, yes on just sends power to the switch (illuminated switch for block heater). Switch off, block heater off. Switch on, power to the OUTLET for the block heater.

Sooo, start by verifying that the block heater cord (looks like an regular male end to extension cord) is plugged into the outlet.

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In winter, I plug mine in when I get to campground, just in case I need it. This time of year, I only go to rally's, 4/5 days in Texas! I also

use the anti-gel.

Then I follow Brett's advice! :)

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Carl,

Not sure I understand. Do you just have the block heater plugged in and ready for use before starting, or do you leave the block heater on 24/7 while in the CG?

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Hi, Brett,

I have an on/off switch in coach. Have tried it and only in the on position will the heater work, off and no heater when plugged in.

So yes, I plug it in when I arrive. If I need it, I just throw the switch.

Carl

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On my two Fleetwood American Coaches, the switch in the back of the coach that lights up red when turned on only activates the AC receptical in the basement where the plug is located for the engine preheat. That plug must be plugged in or your red switch does nothing. I have a timer I use to turn the preheat on about 5 AM for a 9 AM departure.

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FIVE, I love it when things are wired differently from coach to coach! <_<

I don't have a switch in rear, just the plug in basement and a on/off inside coach... :) What year and model do you have now?

Carl

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FIVE, I love it when things are wired differently from coach to coach! <_<

I don't have a switch in rear, just the plug in basement and a on/off inside coach... :) What year and model do you have now?

Carl

Yes they are, I have a switch on the dash labeled "Eng Pre Heat" that powers up an outlet in the engine bay that the block heater is plugged into. My friends Tiffin has a plug in a side compartment for the block heater hanging by an outlet. Its unknown if he has a switch some where to power up the outlet or if its live all the time. Although it has a tag on the wire advising not to leave it plugged in all the time. I have to test the outlet when the weather breaks to see if it's switched somewhere.

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Carl/. Weather will soon be a problem for Joe, Me, and millions more. RE: Block heater. Our 2003 Phaeton 40 was apparently built before Tiffin "sophisticated up." I crawled under to determine the engine was equipped with one. Checked nearby bays for a switch or plug. No luck. Back under for another look and traced the wiring to the other side of the engine where it disappeared into the floor. I found a cheapie single pole switch at the foot of the bed. Placed it in the upper or on position, and waited a few hours. No luck. Then I had to completely undress the bed, remove the mattress, and lift the platform to see the unplugged cable with a tag on it identifying it as for the block heater. Replaced the switch with a heavier built one, plugged it in, and things are fine now. Nothing in the manual about the location, and the former owner knew nothing about it when I emailed him. I guess it is an example of Brett's KISS system? No relay to fail.

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Just read your bio. Since your family believed in the "Old Testament" & King David, Solomon, etc. Don't suppose your a Mason also?

Your right, not going to be fun in the mountains for the next 3-5 days! Per Joe, it's chili time! Only hope he also likes corn bread...LOL

Carl

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Herman, hard not to be when your a Nobel with El Mina, Arabia, Ben Hur and Alzafar! The later is whom I'm with now. :)

Very windy, 35-40 and feels cold...in a valley between Ingram and Mountain Home, TX.

Your probably colder and ObedB is frozen! :wacko:

Carl

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