johnphillips Report post Posted December 28, 2015 I recently bought a 2013 Honda CRV with a GPS built in. When towing do you need to pull the ACC fuse if you are only towing for 6-8 hours or will the battery go dead if you don't? I know you have to turn off all accessories but I don't know how to turn off the GPS. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CarlAda Report post Posted December 28, 2015 Can't you just install a charging line to charge your battery while towing? That's what I do with my tow vehicle rather than pulling fuses. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted December 28, 2015 I have heard that the GPS system draws a lot of current. I don't have it and have gone 8+ hours with no problem. I like to start the car and let it run during lunch stops. Don't forget to go through your set up routine before towing again I like to run through the gears just as a precaution. When you are getting ready to tow never go into N from R always from D and pump the brakes after you shut it off to drain the brake booster. I was going to run a charge line but haven't had a problem with the battery going dead. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted December 31, 2015 Besides the current draw, does the speedometer register if the fuse is not pulled? Some vehicles are like that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted December 31, 2015 Besides the current draw, does the speedometer register if the fuse is not pulled? Some vehicles are like that. My CR-V does not register mileage. The only car that would do that is one with a mechanical speedometer. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BruceN53 Report post Posted January 27, 2016 My 2011 CRV with GPS only works when I turn "Map" on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLDMARINE Report post Posted January 27, 2016 We have a 2013 CRV with GPS,and I did have the DEAD BATTERY problem after towing 6-7 Hours, I also use a Blue Ox Brake Box . So I really don't know who the battery killer was .But I installed a Charge Wire from the Coach to the Car and I bought a switch and a Fuse with attached wires and made my own fused disconnect for about $ 8.00 .Since then no more problems. I see the same switch on the NET for $65.00-$82.00 I got The 2 Parts at Auto Zone. Hope this helps. Old Marine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
habart Report post Posted January 29, 2016 One point to check with an RV tech. I think when you install a charge line, you also need to install some diodes to ensure that the battery in the Towed doesn't back feed into the coach. I just had an RV tech install a charge wire for my set-up (LTV Unity towing a Ford Fusion) and I know that he did this. Sorry, but I don't recall why this back feed can be a problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted January 29, 2016 Habart, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would caution AGAINST a diode (at least a "regular"/inexpensive diode) in the charge line. There is approximately a .7 VDC loss across a diode. With the long, often small-gauge wire used from coach chassis battery to toad battery, you already have some voltage loss. If you are concerned about "backfeeding", a better solution is to use a RELAY at the coach end of the charge line. Have an ignition ON signal to close the relay. So, the two batteries are only connected when the coach ignition is on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
