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DavidSuzanne

Parking Class A Motorhome On An Incline

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We have owned a 2007 Fleetwood Bound 32W for 3.5 years.  Our driveway has about 5-6 degree slope from the top of the driveway to the bottom.  Until recently, I have been backing the RV into the driveway so the engine is on the uphill side.  I find it easier to actually pull the RV in forwards and then back the RV out when we are getting ready for a trip.  Would anyone expect there to be a problem with the engine or transmission if I continue to store the RV with the engine on the downhill side of the driveway?  Regards,  Dave

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No.  Both engine and transmission are pressure lubricated. If you see the oil light go out immediately (as it should) you are good to go.

In terms of gearing, it is easier on the drivetrain to back up the hill (reverse is geared lower than 1st).

Only thing that is level sensitive is an absorption refrigerator.  Do NOT start it until it is level.

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17 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

No.  Both engine and transmission are pressure lubricated. If you see the oil light go out immediately (as it should) you are good to go.

In terms of gearing, it is easier on the drivetrain to back up the hill (reverse is geared lower than 1st).

Only thing that is level sensitive is an absorption refrigerator.  Do NOT start it until it is level.

Brett,

Thank you very much.  We have been part-time RV's for about 6 years and we learn something (s) from veteran RVers like yourself every time we are on the road.  In a few years we will be snowbirders and can hopefully pass on some of our experiences to others.  Regards,  Dave

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Absorption refrigerator like Norcold:  3˚ side to side, 6˚ front to rear. (for my Norcold 1200 any way).

Here is what I do - but be darn careful no to roll off the back end.

I only do this for loading and unloading. All other times it is in a storage facility.

This, of course, is at ones own risk.

P1040156.jpg

 

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Wayne, I was considering making something like that. How do you back up onto them without the wood dragging along the ground?

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22 hours ago, Wayne77590 said:

Absorption refrigerator like Norcold:  3˚ side to side, 6˚ front to rear. (for my Norcold 1200 any way).

Here is what I do - but be darn careful no to roll off the back end.

I only do this for loading and unloading. All other times it is in a storage facility.

This, of course, is at ones own risk.

P1040156.jpg

 

In our test the boiler tube temp starts to rise (not good) at 2-3 degress front to back.

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On 5/12/2016 at 5:52 AM, jleamont said:

Wayne, I was considering making something like that. How do you back up onto them without the wood dragging along the ground?

Joe, I don't remember the exact measurements but the bottom board is about 1 foot longer than the second board. It is beveled at 45˚ so getting up on it is easy. Once on that one it holds it in place very well.  Getting up on the second and third is where a problem with dragging can occur. I drilled a bore hole at each of the corners of the top board down through the second and into the bottom board I drove some long fence bolts through the holes and they keep everything in place. 

When I back up I can feel the first rise but the second and third rise are almost simultaneously.  The trick is two fold. One, left foot on brake, right foot on accelerator pedal.

Second is that Earlene is ALWAYS the ground guide standing by the driver side window, which is open.  When I feel that second bump rise I stop. She then indicates with index finger and thumb how much I have to go back.  Trust me, I only move an inch or so once I feel that last rise.

I used 2 x 10 with 5/8 plywood on top. Next time, which will be when we return home, I'm gong to use 2 x10 with 3/4 inch plywood. The plywood is to prevent the 2 x 10 from splitting.  After 7 years I finally have to replace 1 that split - not the plywood but the board itself so I'm going to re-do them all. I need the extra lift anyhow.

One thing that could be done that would be safer would to make all the boards longer and put a safety stop on the top board, like maybe a good wheel chock.

On 5/12/2016 at 1:41 PM, desertdeals690 said:

In our test the boiler tube temp starts to rise (not good) at 2-3 degrees front to back.

I just went by what the manual for my Norcold stated. I've never measured the temps.

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Wayne, thank you for the information. its on my list of stuff to build, I was thinking about nails just the tips protruding out the bottom to be used a cleats and have the other wood above to protect the tires from the heads.

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Like stated, with the 45˚ bevel the tire starts up on the bevel and holds it in place.  The upper two boards can slip as the wood on wood is slippery that is why I anchor them all with jut some drop-in bolts.

Good luck - and remember it is at your own risk. Works for me - but!

 

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Joe,

I usually store our MH in the garage (level) but carry a set of homemade ramps like ones Wayne pictured above.  This is in case the campground is so out of level that our bags won't level.

Backing uphill onto the ramps can be tough.  What I do is back further than where I want to park, place the ramps in front of the tires I want to raise, then drive forward onto them.

Blake

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Blake, I would like to do that also but my driveway will not allow me to back up and place the wood. So, I park the MH where it is going to be for easy hook-up, paths, and loading. Then lay the longest piece of wood down next to the tire, drive forward until it clears the wood, then put the wood behind the tires and back up onto the wood. All with my DW as ground guide. I would never attempt this without her being there. I wouldn't even trust someone else.

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