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Would anyone know where I could buy a wiring diagram for the above trailer?

Thanks for the comments. Yes wildbill was right, its just 110 line and has nothing to do with the slide out mechanisms. Unfortunately no wiring diagrams and i diagnosis the problem by going from a hot wire coming out of the bathroom GFI directly to the next outlet and no GFI fault occurred. There is no junction box in the bathroom cabinet and the wire comes from the GFI to an outlet on the other side of bathroom wall. I looked underneath the rig and below the outlet that contains the bad wire and saw nothing that would like a 'wire bundle' but will look more.

I have a 2008 Safari Simba (made by Monaco but now out of business) with two slide outs. I have a short in my 110 line that goes from the stationary wall receptacle to a slide out receptacle. I need to replace that line but having difficulty locating the wire that goes from the wall receptacle to the slide out receptacle. My question is 'how does the wire from the rv interior wall receptacle connect to the slide out receptacle (one end is stationary and the other slides in and out)?

Thank you all for your interest in my topic. Thanks richard5933 for your assessment and link. I've contacted them through their message system and hope this will take care of my issue.

I have (4) T105 Trojan 6v (new) rated 225 amp hrs @20 hrs or 185 amp hrs @5 hrs. Microwave is a Sharp R1870F OEM, 1.60 kw. Inverter is used very often during four summer months on boondocking property. Have used propane but would like to take advantage of solar power (600w of solar panels). Wife didn't want ice maker so discontinued its use and used extra space in freezer for storage. No battery charger on that circuit. Batteries are charged via 40 amp solar charger.

Want to thank everyone for their insight and willingness to help. I'll go from top to bottom on the responses and try to answer to the best of my ability. General info: 2008 Safari Simba, bought with 23K and currently has 42K. Refrigerator is a Norad model 1210im OEM, current under a/c 5.5 amp 660 w, under d/c 2.7 amps 33w, 2400 BTUH. Now this rest of info. *the inverter does not start the refrigerator when shore power is off. I initiate the start up *the GFCI is located in the bathroom and supplies all the plugs forward in the coach. Only the plugs in bedroom come from a different source. *thanks for the explanation of the GFCI function. BTW, the refrigerator never gets tripped when under shore/generator power. *I also think its related to start up and causing me to think that I might need a bigger inverter *the motorhome came without an inverter. The inverter was installed 20 months ago. *the refrigerator is in the coach *the refrigerator works on elec and propane, has an ice maker which is inactive. *the refrigerator and all a/c plugs are in the secondary (inverter) panel and all coming off of one 20 amp breaker. Also, the microwave is supplied by this line. *I'm not sure about the elements but would think that if that was the problem, it would also have the same issue under shore power? *I unplug that line going to the outlet and nothing happens to the fridge, so I think that's the only source. I hope all the questions are answered, if not let me know and I'll fill in the blanks. Thanks again for the help as the way it operates now really limits us. I know you can't have everything when using an inverter (without spending a fortune) but I would just like lights, plugs, microwave & refrigerator.

Want to thank everyone for their insight and willingness to help. I'll go from top to bottom on the responses and try to answer to the best of my ability. General info: 2008 Safari Simba, bought with 23K and currently has 42K. Refrigerator is a Norad model 1210im OEM, current under a/c 5.5 amp 660 w, under d/c 2.7 amps 33w, 2400 BTUH. Now this rest of info. *the inverter does not start the refrigerator when shore power is off. I initiate the start up *the GFCI is located in the bathroom and supplies all the plugs forward in the coach. Only the plugs in bedroom come from a different source. *thanks for the explanation of the GFCI function. BTW, the refrigerator never gets tripped when under shore/generator power. *I also think its related to start up and causing me to think that I might need a bigger inverter *the motorhome came without an inverter. The inverter was installed 20 months ago. *the refrigerator is in the coach *the refrigerator works on elec and propane, has an ice maker which is inactive. *the refrigerator and all a/c plugs are in the secondary (inverter) panel and all coming off of one 20 amp breaker. Also, the microwave is supplied by this line. *I'm not sure about the elements but would think that if that was the problem, it would also have the same issue under shore power? *I unplug that line going to the outlet and nothing happens to the fridge, so I think that's the only source. I hope all the questions are answered, if not let me know and I'll fill in the blanks. Thanks again for the help as the way it operates now really limits us. I know you can't have everything when using an inverter (without spending a fortune) but I would just like lights, plugs, microwave & refrigerator.

The inverter is Pure Sine Wave Inverter/charger, Magnum MS2012 , serial # WJ1-05283

I'm working on being able to run my house refrigerator of the inverter. I discovered that my outlet that the refrigerator runs on is working on the same line as my coach outlets. When shore power is on the refrigerator works just fine. However, in inverter mode it doesn't and in fact if I try to use it, the GFI trips but not the panel breaker. Two questions: 1) why does the GFI trip and not the panel breaker? 2) if I want it to work with the inverter, should I run a dedicated line from the panel to the refrigerator outlet and make sure there is not a overload situation since I only have a 30 amp inverter? If I bump the inverter up to 50 amp will it probably work just fine the way its currently wired?