Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. johnjo johnjo joined the community
  3. larry6101 larry6101 joined the community
  4. kev
    My 32-year-old camper is not listed. My leveling system is manual. Each leveling jack has a valve to divert the oil to the jack. The new number for the AP2381 is RAP 2381. I do not want to purchase new jacks at the tune of $1700 EACH. If there is a specific page, you can link me to for the rebuilding of the smaller kick down cylinder please provide it. I keep going in circles to the purchase of new jacks on the HWH site. During a bench test the AP2381 will not kick to a full 90 degrees. I have missed something simple in the rebuild. Thank you for your continued time to reply to this topic as an effort to get my jack to function properly.
  5. tampracchia tampracchia joined the community
  6. wildebill308
    What is wrong with your emission control parts/system? Bill
  7. five
    That's for sure! We've been stranded in Grants, NM, for two weeks awaiting emission control parts. Over the years, we've had three check engine lights, and when the dust settles on this one, the total costs will be pushing $25k.
  8. KINNISONSRV KINNISONSRV joined the community
  9. ckellerman ckellerman joined the community
  10. bassoneman@yahoo.com bassoneman@yahoo.com joined the community
  11. jmyzick jmyzick joined the community
  12. Teamloew Teamloew joined the community
  13. jmetcalfe jmetcalfe joined the community
  14. wayne77590
    Richard, with the lower maintenance costs you can take your friends to more expensive restaurants. Happy trails!
  15. rayin
    Did you look up the troubleshooting chart in the service manual for your specific HWH model? It's all under the link I provided for HWH. That is odd about Stewarts Services, they've always been great for getting jacks reworked. That AP number is not your leveling system ID, did you open the 2nd link for identification?
  16. keprice keprice joined the community
  17. GDC238
    Thank you. I’ll give it a try.
  18. snjwalkabout@gmail.com
    When this happened on my Berkie last year, I found that a data cable female x female splice had shorted out. I could not find the RJ12 connector at the big box stores so ended up stripping ends on both data cables and using a butt splices. I did find a RJ11/12 tester at the big box but you need to locate both ends of the cable to do a test. I found the short trying to locate both ends to do the test.
  19. kev
    Called Stewarts last year. Stewarts always replies to call HWH. HWH was supposed to call me back. No one has returned my call. If any member has rebuilt the AP 2381 leveling jack please let me know what part of the rebuild process has gone wrong. Rayin, Thank you for your military service.
  20. rfields
    We have a 2019 jayco greyhawk and love it.
  21. Yesterday
  22. timnjulie
    Had a technician come to Campground he discovered the power switch at the door needed replaced. Thank you for your suggestions.
  23. jleamont
    Richard, I don’t blame you, makes sense from a cost standpoint!
  24. GDC238
    Hello everyone, I own a 2017 Fleetwood Bounder 36H. I’m having a problem with the front three Multiplex switch modules. The switches back light but the functions don’t light blue or operate. Every once and a while the modules will operate normally. The other modules in the coach work fine. I called Precision Circuits and they think it’s a data cable problem. I was looking to see if anyone had a similar issue and what was your fix. Thanks, Greg
  25. hermanmullins
    That's what this site is for, you can talk about most anything. Good luck with your Airstream, now let the new adventures begin. Herman
  26. richard5933
    Not sure if there is a particular place to mention this, so I'll just post it here... We have sold our vintage coach and will now be doing all our traveling in our nearly-vintage Airstream. Going to be quite the change going from a diesel pusher to a trailer, but the lower maintenance requirements will be a blessing. Sad to see it go, but looking forward to the upcoming trips we have planned this spring & summer.
  27. joelashley
    Update, and still scratching my head. At some expense I had two boards in the inverter replaced last month due to rodent damage (long story). After reinstalling and connecting the Magnum MS2012 inverter, reconnecting the coach batteries, and plugging in to 30 amp 120v, a few minutes' anxious wait finally brought forth success, and eventually the Magnum Remote went to Float at 13.75 volts, where it's stayed for a couple of weeks now. But, I'm still not sure about that darned solar controller. It was quiet until the last few days, after the first really very sunny, warm day of the year. Then I could hear the controller clicking on land off, as it had started doing last year. It now does it even on cloudy days, but not after sundown. I'm assuming this has something to do with an auto-switch of some sort that cuts the controller charging side off at a certain voltage. But in seconds it clicks again, I assume cycling back on. And I assume it shouldn't be doing that. I'm still hoping someone here can provide a manual for the HPV-30D rather than the HPV-30DR, because as described in last year's posts the one in the coach owner's manual doesn't match the actual beast, and is for a 45D. As per advice here and as in those coach manual's 45D illustrations, I did move dipswitch #4 to the same position as #1 last year. But with the odd clicking sound appearing again, I'm nervous about some harm to some related system. The inverter should be protected, and it's theorized its damage last summer was from the rodent setting up house with it. Turns out the factory put in the wrong 300amp fuse for it in the battery box fuse group. Likely others of the same era have fast-blow fuses that should've been slow-blow, according to Magnum. But rather than take a chance, do you think I should disconnect all the phone wires to the controller for the time being, or is the click cycling okay? Switching to AGM's seems to have eliminated the corrosion issues of posts and tray that I constantly dealt with with wet cell batteries, but I'm not yet confident that the HPV-30D is playing nice with them. For many years the single factory solar panel kept the batteries up while parked here unplugged for months or years at a time here by the house, even in winter. Storing the coach that way, I got 12 years out of both chassis and house batteries. Now I'm not sure I should unplug from the 30amp RV outlet on the house.
  28. Last week
  29. jleamont started following Pennsylvania Travel
  30. jleamont
    It’s been a few years, did it in a 42’ with toad, no issues!
  31. moonwink
    Herman, I'm not convinced I'm the one that screwed up and even if I did, SafeRide's record keeping system should have caught the duplication. They never sent renewals twice for the different accounts they claim they set up and I always entered my membership number when renewing. Clearly, they don't care as long as they're coming out on the plus side. The end result is that after switching to them from CoachNet several years ago, I'm out a full year's worth of coverage. This should be investigated and corrected so others aren't given the same treatment. I could understand if this had happened on one occasion but it's happening every time I renew.
  32. moonwink started following Problems after renewing SafeRide RV Motor Club Membership
  33. aztec7fan
    is there a chance your coach got directly hit by lightning? there was another thread recently where a coach was hit, and it fried so many systems, the unit had to be written as a loss by the insurance. it was a really bad fight for the owner. not trying to scare you. I hope it's just one fuse, relay, or circuit that needs replacing in your case.
  34. slattmann started following Pennsylvania Travel
  35. slattmann
    Has anyone used RTE 322 recently between I-99 and I-80 and wondering opinion...45' MH towing. It looks like a good shortcut
  36. hermanmullins
    Chaffee, Welcome to the Forum. Since you were able to change the lock, I would remove it and use the outline of the old lock and mask it off. Go to a parts house and get two rattle cans of paint. One Auto Black and one Auto Clear coat. Spray it a couple of coats of Black and then clear. when it dries and you replace the lock you will hardly tell the difference of the two since the outline will be the sane color as the lock. Herman
  37. wildebill308 started following Need Ideas for Trim Around Entry Door
  38. wildebill308
    Something I might do is mask both the door (around the outside edge of thee paint mark) and the lock. Around the top edge/radius of the lock. Then run a bead of sealant around the lock and smooth it out and then remove the tape. I would probably clean it with acetone and use a good RV sealant like dicor. How loose is the lock? Bill
  39. wildebill308
    Any word on the great adventure of dbenoit?
  40. wayne77590
    A dark caulk to blend in with the latch maybe. It will also waterproof it,
  41. rayin
    Yes I picked up all the fiberglass parts and pieces and brought them home in the pickup bed. That was the first question the body shop asked, "did you save the pieces? Without them reconstruction is next to impossible, as new parts cannot be found". wildbill, All the damage is below the windshields as far as the body shop can determine before the damaged fiberglass parts are removed. I'm confident once the fiberglass damage is repaired and repainted, repairs will be undetectable to the average person. Of course a body man will be able to see repairs have been performed. A side note; the shop owner told me working with fiberglass was easy for his crew, as most of them were MH owners.
  42. rayin started following Need Ideas for Trim Around Entry Door
  43. rayin
    Look at auto pin striping and see if you get an idea. I am thinking black gloss pin striping might look OK if you have a steady hand and good eye.
  1. Load more activity



×
×
  • Create New...