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Who, What, When, Where or Just Lets Talk
rayin replied to hermanmullins's topic in General Discussion
I searched Google groups, there is no diesel club there yet, still on Yahoo best I found. Speaking of diesel motorhomes, anyone want one of these: https://camillc.com/terrawind/ Or, this motorhome may be your choice: https://luxurylaunches.com/travel/a-luxury-rv-of-your-dreams-it-comes-with-a-helicopter-hot-tub-wine-fridge-and-a-lot-more.php -
There are many great utube videos to help with the learning curve. I suggest these to begin: How to drive a motorhome, then hand signals for backing. There are a multitude of these videos however there is no substitute for experience, find a large vacant parking lot for practice turning sharp corners around cones and backing between lines.
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I have ordinary 2 pin sockets, replaced them with LED, great improvement.
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tsandleharris joined the community
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Don't blame you a bit. Bill
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My coach is totally heated by three 1500-w heaters when we're plugged into the pedestal. They were originally installed in 1974 by Custom Coach, but the motors were finally starting to make noise. I replaced them this fall with three of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PS9NY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you have an appropriate place to mount and wire a couple of these, it would be a great way to heat with electric. They don't look like much, but they put out a great deal of heat right on the floor where you want it. They can be setup to run on 750w up to 1500w in 250w increments.
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Welcome to the forum. How cold is it outside? That heater on hi should do a fairly good job. Do you have it on the "Hi" setting? Fan on? Do you have enough power available? A 1500 w output is about the max you can get out of a space heater. Something I have done is to run a separate heavy duty extension cord from the power pedestal. Especially if you want to run a second heater. Run one on the extension and the outher through the RV power cord. Let us know what you find out. Bill
- Yesterday
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jdesanto20 joined the community
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Tiffin said the driver side slides are electrical(switch has to be on), but passenger sides are hydrolic(they work). Just had step motor, etc. replaced and when we went to pick it up, house batteries were dead (forgot to turn off inverter) and all these things were not working(wipers, heat/air fan, camera,brake assist beeping).
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Yes, the plastic ones are merely dust caps, metal ones are designed to hold truck tire air pressure if the valve core fails. I have witnessed tire changers throw used cores on the same table with new ones.
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Like jleamont said I would try to get wiring diagrams for all the systems that arn't working. Bill
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You’d be better off calling Tiffin and asking where to start if there is no problem with the salesman switch circuit (located in the entry way). Since you have house electrical and coach electrical problems I suspect you have two issues or the power or ground supplying has been compromised. It’s doubtful Tiffin has the wiper circuit on the coach electrical system.. On our coach if the salesman switch is off I have no 120 vac power to anything. But my chassis operates (wipers, turn signals, dash AC and heat etc) as designed.
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I bought one of those parabolic radiant heaters at Harbor Freight last year and it does a great job at 400/900 watts plus l found a 250 watt electrical one l put on the counter in the back bedroom from Walmart both are quiet. Good luck
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How does Maryland's EZPass work when towing a 5W
wildebill308 replied to ckmillard3's topic in General Discussion
Yes I had to get a new transponder. Unfortunately I haven't been able to test it yet. Bill -
I have a 2010 40 ft Phaeton (Tiffin), the driver side slides, windshield wipers, rear camera, brake assist light beeping,heat and air are all not working. Can anyone tell me if it is all connected to one electrical issue?
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Coated Aluminum wheel maintenance [oxidation)
manholt replied to wtbuck12's topic in Type A motorhomes
We all do that at one time or another! -
Does anyone have experience with a space heater that works to heat entire 27 foot RV? I purchased a Lasko model 755320 and it will not even adequately heat the small living room space of my Coachhouse 272XL. I am looking for an electrical but if suggestions on any other kind would also appreciate it. Thanks.
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Dons2346, there was a man (don't remember his name or Avatar) who was in charge of the youth group and under, I think 50, group...he wanted to get rid of Governance (ND's) as we know it. He put together a petition and summited it, prior to the Indy convention....maybe he got his way! 😁 "Member Driven" to me = Area SVP's, EB, SNVP and NP ! You could also get rid of Area SVP's and it would be pure!
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kiki27 joined the community
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Actully there is very little that can be done to increase torque and HP without severely shortening the original lifespan of the engine. The Cummins reply said it all. Allison RV transmission specs.
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Herman my surgeon visited my room after I got out of ICU after my quad and gave me his advice; "I fixed the plumbing, the rest is up to you". That's why I commented on doing rehab like your life depends on it. Welcome to the zipper club!
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If you’ve ever watched a tire shop change tires, you’ll probably notice that the tech just throws the valves and caps on a work station. If he uses the same ones is anyone’s guess. I have stainless steel caps in my vehicles , if I have the wheels rotated at a dealer, I remove the caps. Most times when I get the vehicle, back I find cheapy plastic valve caps on the wheels.
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I've had TPMS on our coach for a few years now. The sensors are removed a few times a year to confirm pressures, and they are totally removed before storing for winter. Have had the tires changed out once during this time. Never have had any problem with a valve stem sticking open. I'm wondering if they didn't get something on the inside of the valve when installed them - possibly something was in the soapy water that's used to lubricate the rubber as it's pulled through or when the tire is seated? My first attempt at solving this would be to have the valve stem pointing strait down and then pulling the core out. Hopefully whatever might be inside the tire will find its way out the open core. Don't let the tire go flat - just let 10-15psi out to flush out the valve stem. There is a tool which can be used to re-seat the seat inside the valve stem so that the valve can seal against it better. Shouldn't be needed on brand-new valve stems, but maybe the batch you have aren't made. If it
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Since getting new tires a month ago, I've had 3 instances of a valve stem core being stuck open after I remove the TPMS cap (TST TPMS). I checked the core, it was tight. Removed core and put back in, didn't fix problem. Tire continued rapid deflation. Cores are red band, without filter (no balancing beads were installed, filter shouldnt be needed). Changing to a new core, which the tire shop did, "fixed" the problem. I now carry a dozen spare cores in case this happens again. Tire shop (Pete's Road Service) said the TPMS cap might have been on too tight, pushing down too hard, causing the core to be stuck open after cap is removed. Don't buy that idea - problem started w new tire install. Plus, I screw TPMS caps on only right enough to create a seal. Anyone had this issue? Have a root cause?
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You can upgrade the Torque on a Allison 3000 to 1750 ft. lbs, but it won't do any good, unless you have the ISM engine.
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Amen!
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How does Maryland's EZPass work when towing a 5W
manholt replied to ckmillard3's topic in General Discussion
Bill, now that you have a Tag axle, do you need to change your EZPASS info? -
Bill, you and Herman are in a club that I do not wish to join!
