bnsonger47

Heat refers to the wattage/amperage draw. Settings go from 1 through 10 with the default being 5 when either burner it turned on. Temp, of course, refers to the approximate temperature setting. Temps can be a bit tricky to control at lower settings by virtue of the design and the type of pan being used. The burner cuts down when the temp at the surface is reached. Since the surface can stay warm, there is still heat to transfer or distribute through the pan. Depending on the properties of the pan, the heat can build up to a higher temp or dissipate somewhat. Also, whether the pan is covered or not makes a difference as does the type of food being cooked. All of this makes for some variables. That being said, temperature control is like cooking on anything else -- experience and brain power count for somethings. It was that way in the gas days and the typical electric stoves, too. Shucks, evey electric frying pans and griddles have their temperature issues. But, the process does save a lot of heat and gas odor issues in the coach. Byron

The cooktop to which your link points is probably the preferred replacement unit when it comes to removing the gas cooktop. My wife and I both preferred induction cooking. We started with a portable type. Once we started, we never lifted the cover for the gas stove; i.e. we never looked back. This past Christmas we got ourselves the TrueInduction unit. I have just finished putting it in place. I removed the gas cooktop and capped the gas lines. They are still in place since there is room to move them to the side. I next ran some romex to the basement drilling a hole through the floor near the outside wall. I put a duplex receptacle in a box for plugging the induction cooktop into. At the other end I tapped into (at a junction box) the service for the basement TV. Also on that line are two receptacles in the bedroom (seldom used). I removed the matching corian cover. It is the folding variety. The back edge had venting to allow heat to escape when covering the original stove if covered prematurely. The front edge of the cover matches the sculpted edge of the cabinets (we have a Newmar Dutch Star). I mounted the induction stovetop so that it was no more than three inches from the front edge. That leaves a gap to the back toward the wall. Using the larger piece of corian from the cover I created a storage box that fits the hole with a back side higher than the other three sides. This box serves two functions. First, with the higher edge toward the rear it helps hold things in place on the counter since there's about three inches of the original counter at that point. Wine bottles fit perfectly as do water bottles (take your pick of rehydration source). The box has space for spices, etc. When you remove the stovetop you'll note that a gap exist between the left and right sides of the cabinet. I cut a board the proper width and matched the wood tone. It serves as the base to which I glued the front lip of the cover (cut to a depth of 2.5 inches). That meant that there was space to put in a drawer of shallow depth. My wife will use this for cooking utensils and other kitchen things that aren't too deep. I ordered a drawer front from an online service that offers a variety of edge styles and wood varieties. I have found no other "drop-in" that works as well as this model which is probably why the builders are using it. We also were surprised at the way it operates in that it protects the circuitry. You can't use over the 15-amp limit in spite of it having two burners. It automatically clips one burner's power setting if you go higher on one. As they have is set, you can't go over a combination of 10 on the power setting. So, if one burner is at 7 the other can only be doing 3 regardging wattage/amperage draw. That's a nice feature. Byron

There is no "best". There is only personal preference based on personal desires. I have Blue Ox with the Patriot. The only time I had a battery drain issue was when I left the fan and radio on. Self-inflicted wound. Since then, not a problem. Of course, having a battery under six years of age is a help.

I am thoroughly amazed that the son of the former owner of a Flxible has replied. My soft heart shouted "yes" when I read about the history. Vincennes -- my mom's family was from there and I lived and went to college not more than 60 miles away. In fact, the college chartered from them. My first ride in a Flxible like that was in 1967 when the college choir took one on tour. In fact, we made two tours in a Flxible before we wound up riding in GMC PD4104s. I remember finding out the coach had no speedometer. The driver responded by saying: "Back then you could go that fast between towns so you didn't need one since there were no interstates or ramps to deal with." Made sense, besides, like any straight transmission, you just listened and felt when you needed to shift. And, like any diesel, keep your eye on the RPMs. If I had the money I'd fix up a Flxible just for the nostalgia. They had character. And, glad to see the Flxible guys love the coaches enough to keep them on the road. I, myself, formerly owned a 1978 GMC motorhome. Now I'm getting a 2000 Airstream Land Yacht -- far cry from a Flxible and a GMC but this will be my final motorhome before I quit driving by me own decision. Great story, guys, thanks for sharing the information. Byron