busnuts@toast2.net

Gator, In the mid 90's when evaluating various braking systems I preformed a simple test. While coming down a straight stretch of mountain road with no traffic, I turned off the engine and applied the brake. After one or two pumps, the residual vacuum was gone and the brake pedal had no effect as hard as I could push on the brake pedal on a 5300 pound vehicle. This is the basis of most supplemental braking systems. Granted, the box-on-the-floor systems will have much more push (or pull, depending on the system), but how much stress do you want to put on a pedal and it's linkage designed for the average human leg strength. I opted for an M&G system and found when towing it actually stopped the MH faster because of the four wheel braking of the Bronco added considerably to the really lousy air-over-hydraulic all disk brakes of the Beaver Patriot. When getting ready to travel, I quick connected a coiled air line from MH to towd. That's it. Done. No switches or levers to adjust. No LED's to watch. We now have a bus conversion with much better full air brakes, but still I use the M&G when towing our 6100 pound van. Two points: 1. Compare costs of systems with and without installation labor. The cost of most box-on-the-floor supplemental braking systems will meet or exceed the M&G system in most cases. And no, I have no relation to M&G other than the fact I appreciate a well engineered and simple system that does not put excessive stresses on portions of your towd that it was not designed to have. 2. ANY supplemental or primary braking system can exhibit problems if it is not installed properly. The only downside to the M&G system is they do not have cylinders for all cars and trucks. Particularly the smaller ones. My wife's 2300 pound Escort fell into that category due to the compactness within the engine compartment and the fact that model is not highly used as a towd. So you pay your money and hopefully ride safer. Chuck & Elva Newman F162285

Vic, something I forgot to mention in my post above. IF you and your wife are new to RVing, keep in mind you both will be living full time in 320 square feet or less. That's a real small house for most people. I fully recommend renting a motor home for at least a week, preferably longer. How do you both get along in limited space. Take it to colder climates that will force more time inside the motor home. Is one or both of you going to get "cabin fever " when confined for long periods. That's something you really want to know now before signing any sales contracts. Good luck, Chuck & Elva Newman F162285

Vic, I agree with all the above. Especially, if you have not used an RV before. Since 1977 we have had three commercial motor homes and one travel trailer. In each case we purchased new and the next owner got a pristine RV for pennies on the dollar. The depreciation in the first two years is unbelievable. And now more than any time in the past, you can get a low mileage, well kept motor home for a very good price. Sort of like regular homes, pre-owned RV's now can be had at prices that never before existed. It is truly a buyers market. Don't worry about lack of factory warranty on a used unit. Good Sam and others are constantly trying to sell me full maintenance / breakdown warranties. The most important thing with these is be sure to read and understand ALL the exclusions. This will save great amounts of turmoil when service is needed. Also, note that most of these warranties will not apply when the coach is more than ten years old. Take your time and look around locally. Do Google searches for pre-owned RV's. Talk to finance companies listed in FMCA and MotorHome magazines. Interest rates are historically low. Good luck, Chuck & Elva Newman F162285