tkbowers

I have an Onan Marquis 6500LP Model 6.5NHMFA26115C generator with less than 1,000 hours. It's probably original equipment on my 1994 Foretravel U-240. After spending around $3,000 correcting a low-voltage/no-voltage condition at startup, the unit is now difficult to start. It will not start on the first attempt, but fires up fairly quickly on the second try. The voltage to the solenoid valve (propane) while cranking was between 8 and 9 volts. This number went to 11.4 volts immediately after starting, 13.4 volts after 5 minutes, then 12.5 volts after around 10 minutes. Are these results normal? Could a weak ground connection cause the fluctuations or low voltage? If these results are normal, I will be moving downstream to look at the pressure regulator. I had similar starting problems about 5 years ago and the mechanic discovered that the regulator was filled with a viscous oil. Perhaps this could again be the cause. I do a fair amount of dry camping and use my generator often. Lastly, following a recommendation from Onan, I also made a small adjustment to the large thumbscrew on the carburetor, opening it in quarter turn increments but no more than one full turn total. This MAY have made a small improvement but the problem still exists. Your thoughts? Thank you. Tom

Thanks to everyone for your posts. It sounds like I do need to recharge my batteries after adding water. Tom

I do have an inverter/charger, but this does not operate when the coach is in storage.

Today I topped off my house batteries with distilled water. They were fully charged a week ago after returning from a weekend away. Each cell required from 1/2 to 3/4 cup water. Does adding water to the batteries diminish the charge? Do I need to recharge them after adding water? I'm aware that it's not a good idea to store lead acid batteries in a discharged condition. Thanks. Tom

Thanks Brett. You're always a big help! Tom

This issue involves my 1994 Foretravel Grand Villa (U-240). I drove to a local campground (Sonoma County, CA) several weeks ago. We had heavy rains a few days prior, and some roads were still flooded or closed. At one point I had to navigate through about 6 inches of water for maybe 50 yards. I took it easy and kept my speed below 10 mph. After arriving at the campground, my generator started fine but I did not hear the usual "thud" coming from the transfer switch. The Zantrex control panel did not light up either. I made several additional attempts to charge my batteries throughout the afternoon with no luck. I was however able to use my Zantrex inverter. We had a dry steady wind that night, and the transfer switch worked fine the next morning and gave me no problems for the remainder of my stay. Any ideas as to what happened and suggestions for a fix. Thank you. Tom Rohnert Park, CA

Brett, I'm headed over the vehicle now to disconnect the existing refrigerator and perhaps take a look at the empty compartment. If I choose to return the new refrigerator for a larger one, I will need some guidance and clarification from you. First, is the "drain" a liquid drain or a opening (size unknown) allowing propane to escape from behind the refrigerator to the basement compartment? (For your information, my vacuum is located next to the entrance stair.) The thought of then putting a hole in the basement floor concerns me. How do you prevent water from entering the compartment when driving in rain? Thanks. Tom

Hi Brett. Thanks for your reply. I purchased a Dometic RM3762 (external temp display) today at Camping World. I could not find your model (3962) on the Dometic website. I do not plan on removing the "stair step" because of the location of the lower outdoor air vent. Removing the step will place the bottom of the unit below the vent which is not recommended. I will however have to extend the step forward in order to support the front of the refrigerator. Also, I was thinking of reinstalling the existing ice maker grill to camouflage the void below the refrigerator. Tom

The refrigerator on my 1994 Foretravel Grand Villa (U-240) has stopped working. I opened the door several days ago and was hit by a wall of ammonia gas. The existing refrigerator is a Dometic model 4804.004 and I believe it is original. Dometic makes a number of suitable replacements, but I've learned that Atwood has a refrigerator that uses helium rather than hydrogen. Does anyone have any information on this unit. I'm reluctant to spend money on what may be an unproven technology. Thank you. Tom Bowers (Sonoma County, CA)