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BrianB

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Posts posted by BrianB


  1. My '97 Coach has a 3126 CAT and Allison 3060. After a long drive at freeway speeds when I slow down to city street speeds and then come to a stop at a light, sometimes I get either a Low Oil light or Low Oil Level light along with a warning chime. The light goes off and the warning chime stops after a few seconds. The gauge also reads low.

    This has gone on since I have owned the coach. I have had three oil and filter changes so far. Oil testing shows all normal and no evidence of wear. Engine has only 45K miles. I called CAT some time ago and they said that it should not be a problem as the engine will stop if there is no oil pressure.

    I think it might be a bad sending unit. I don't see where the sender is located on the passenger side or I just don't recognize it.

    I am also going to install a mechanical gauge and see what that reads compared to the dash gauge.

    I have never had a CEL come on and never had the engine de-rate or stop running.

    Any ideas on what could be the problem and where the sender is located?


  2. Emma Wood is a State Park and you will need reservations to stay there. It is primative. Faria is a county park and is first come first served. Some hookups and most primitive. Rincon is along the old highway and is primative and NOISY. We were there Sunday night and did not sleep one wink all night. Hobson Beach is at the north end of Rincon and has some hookups and is also a County park.


  3. Soak it in Kroil and let it set approx. 20 min. then spray it again, unhook the pin connecting the lever, gently tap it. This usually breaks it loose.

    Roger

    2006 Beaver Monterey

    Got some PB Blaster from a hot rod friend and am trying it tonight. If I can get it freed up I should get some boost from the turbo that I have been missing all along.

    I am afraid to take the circlip off the linkage as I will never get a tool much less my fat fingers into that tiny space to reinstall it. My linkage is actually frozen in the wide open position. The pressure actuator is fuly extended and the wastegate lever needs to be tapped (pulled) down to release it. I will use a bent nail inserted into my slide hammer and see if it will break free.

    Some of the guys have said that the wastegate will open at only 18psi and they have left theirs in the closed position so they have more boost.


  4. OK...I solved the problem.

    The PO put in new carpeting and had to remove and replace the J-Box. When he did this he put BOTH legs of the generator output (black and black/yellow stripe) to the black wire going to the ATS. He then put one of the two available white neutral wires on the red transmission wire going to the ATS.

    I rewired the black wires splitting them up to go to the black and red wires to the ATS. I then put the two incoming white neutrals to the outgoing white neutral, fired up the Onan and all is good to go. Winning!

    I am just glad the PO did not wire them up so that there was damage to the Onan from running it.


  5. Start by checking all connections between generator and ATS/junction box. Loose wire connections are not that uncommon. Wire nuts are cheap!

    Brett

    The J-box is right over the generator. The generator is right under the passenger seat.

    I will have to lower the generator to see further upstream.

    Is there any reason for the one leg to fail? Circuit board etc?


  6. I found a J-box under the passenger foot area where the generator output connects to the wires to the rear of the coach. I started the Onan and I again have power on the black leg but there is no power on the red leg. The red is probably the 20Amp leg and is why the rear A/C has no power when on the generator. The ATS while on shore power gives it to both legs in the panel I posted. But on generator it divides the power into 30 and 20 amp legs and since there is no 20 amp leg from the generator there is no power in the panel on the red 20 amp wire.

    Now to find out why the generator has no 20AMP output. Any ideas?


  7. Brian,

    Difficult to tell from that photo, but with 50 amp service, my next step would be to (ASSUMING YOU ARE SAFE WORKING AROUND 120/240 VAC) to open the ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) and with shore power and generator off check all connections. Then start the generator and check for power IN and OUT.

    Brett

    Thanks Brett, It looks like to access the ATS I have to remove the converter. Is there another way to access this?


  8. You mention that you can run both A/C separately on 120 but you don't say it you can run both simultaneously. You also don't say if both A/C units operate separately (properly) while on the genset.

    Brett: Yes all other appliances work. (micro) and I have 125V at the outlets while the gen is running.

    Bill: Yes I can run both A/C's at the same time while on 120V shore power.

    While on shore power the A/C units will start up when the switch is turned on. When on generator power there is a long delay before they will start even if the gen has been running for some time.

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