ahicks

Those that have replied so far, thanks so much! Would still like to hear more from those with GAS rigs, your impressions regarding how your rig handles that weight, 4 down vs. dolly, size of your toad, and if you have it, how the toad affects your milage? How/what would you change if you could (while trying to maintain something resembling a budget)? To expand on my thinking a little? Carol and I have a late model Impala that would have to be dollied, and a Dakota 4x4 that must be pulled 4 down. I've done the checking on both. These vehicles are both on the heavier side regarding my rigs capacity, but do-able. Both would cost similarly to rig for towing. We hadn't even begun to think motorhome or toad when these vehicles were purchased. In a perfect world, we would sell one and buy a CRV or maybe an HHR. The problem is we're feshly retired little guys that have just sprung for a motorhome, not really ready to spring for another vehicle at the moment - if we can get away with what we have for the short term? Brett, thanks, but trying not to "over think" this one. I get how one could quickly turn this question into something that can eventually become so mired in trivia that nothing useful could possibly come from it. That's not the direction I'd like to go, prefering instead to keep this nice and simple. Input from those with averages based on thousands of miles traveled will work fine for me here.... -Al

Hi everyone. As a newbie with no Toad experience, have been doing a lot of reading regarding Toads. Struggling trying to weigh the cost of having one with us vs. renting a vehicle when/if necessary? I've looked but see very little discussion regarding how this will affect my rigs mileage? Our coach will be used mainly for touring the first couple of years. Part timing and not spending a lot of time anywhere. Maybe 3-4 days max? Looking for input, realizing a VW bug is going to affect mileage less than a Suburban, but curious anyway if you have with/without mileage numbers. Thanks Much! 93 HR Aluma-Lite 34' w/tag Chev. chassis/gas

I was able to answer my own question, Thanks. It just took the patience to find the magic combination of search words. I was overcomplicating the issue (typical me), knew this shouldn't be that difficult. A simple SPDT switch able to handle the amperage is all I need. Thinking Home Depot... For anyone following able to follow an elec. diagram I've left the link to the diagram answering my questions. Many MANY thanks to the author. http://www.vsquare.com/howard/photos/airstream/MotorHomeElectric002.jpg

Working on my '93 HR AlumaLite 34' MH. I can't get any power to my front A/C on shore power or Gen. (yes, the breakers on the gen are both set) The coach is new to me, so I dug through the manuals and found one for a Pulse-Air m# AC-1157 that appears to be an aftermarket accessory installed by a PO. It looks like it allows the front and rear A/C's to be cycled back and forth automatically on shore power, or manually selected front/rear on shore power. It's installed in place of the HR OEM rotary switch that did the front/rear switching manually originally. I'm going to assume the relays in the Pulse-Air unit are toast. What I would like some direction on, is what might be used to replace the Pulse Air unit for manual operation as originally designed by HR? I have 4 lines here. Looks like (not verified) one to each of the A/C's, one from the generator, and one from the main AC panel marked "Front A/C". Not generally too challenged by this kind of thing in the past, but I'm drawing a total blank here! Anyone have any guidance regarding wiring diagrams or sources for a reasonably priced manual switch (or switches)? A link to point me in the right direction? Thanks much!

Yes sir. I did.

OK, thinking back, the adds refered to a "flushing" toilet? I guess I made the jump from there to a home style toilet as I'm not familiar with anything else very far from removed from those of the familiar Thetford variety - and they aren't what comes to this mind when hearing the words "flush toilet". Could they be talking about a recirculating (yuk!) toilet? Splashing, that would not be good. Big downside if that were to occur. Wouldn't you think the rim of the toilet might contain the largest majority of any "sloshing" to occur though? Unless you were on some really rough roads anyway. Regarding tank capacities, here's what I'm thinking: 70 gallons fresh water, that shouldn't be an issue? 50 gal. black, hmmm, that could be. Common sense would dictate the use of a new toilet, and I think they are rated at 1.6 gal. per flush - maximum. 50/1.6=31 and change. Sounds like we would need to be pretty "conservative" if staying any amount of time at a facility without toilets. Maybe, to improve on the number of flushes available, we could add one of the new fangled "dual flush" setups? (http://www.amazon.com/One2flush-Toilet-Conversion-Standard-Toilets/dp/B002IYNBH0/ref=pd_cp_hi_0) From their "product description" I quote: "The amount of water used in a half flush can be reduced to .8 gal(half flush) and 1.4 gal (full flush)in a 1.6 gallon toilet." So, more math to see what that would look like: 50/1.4=35 and change, while 50/.8=over 62! This is starting to make more sense? I'm excited about the possibility to eliminate something I've alway found fairly high on the distatefull (bordering on disgusting!) list. I get the fact this plan isn't going to be for everyone. I'm wondering about the practicality of this for OUR application. We are not currenty planning on boondocking for any extended periods. In fact, I doubt we would do that for more than 3-4 days, and then, there's still a very good chance wherever we were would have toilet facilities somewhere on site. From an installation standpoint, it should be a straight bolt in. No coach mods necessary. So worst case, if the idea doesn't work out, one of the home toilets is older. I could reinstall the Thetford, and replace that old toilet with this one...

Newbie here. While looking around and reading about coaches on the market prior to getting ours, I've seen where some coaches are equipped with a conventional home type toilet (pardon my lack of proper terminology). No clue how they got that way (OEM or custom by owner). The advantages over an RV type toilet seem clear to me, what I'm wondering about is the downside. Currently weighing options regarding this move. Our coach will be used primarily for travel, will not be parked for more than a few days at a time. I mention that as I believe that we have adequate tank capacities to support the use of a home type toilet (for a few days)? Anyone care to share their experience one type vs. the other?

Thanks Brett. I know better than to fire something like that off. My enthusiasim got the best of me. I do have some brain 'picken to do, so I'll get some specific questions together and try to get them posted in the right spot. -Al

Hi everyone! Newbie here, first post. Trying to educate myself regarding the intricacies of owning the 50,000 mile '93 34' Aluma-Lite motorhome we recently purchased on a Chev. chassis. I'm an ex RV mechanic with 19 years of experience (that ended in '89 when I changed careers), so I have a clue regarding much of this, but feeling a little lost regarding a lot of the specifics (e.g. the Mor-Ryde tag axle suspension, auto leveling system, etc. ). Trying to come up to speed regarding this coach as I plan on doing the majority of my own maintenance (you can read that more time than money if you'd like!). I'm interested in other folk's experience, hoping to gain insight regarding common trouble spots and maybe some of your specific likes and dislikes regarding it? Familiar with the generic chassis items e.g. tires, belts, hoses, frt. air bags, rusty fuel/brake lines, exhaust manifold issues, etc. as well as many of the coach systems (those don't seem to have changed much). Just wondering if there are/were other common things you'd like to share? Maybe parts sources for these original Holiday Ramblers? Thanks much! -Al