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wla7pca7

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Posts posted by wla7pca7


  1. 4 hours ago, manholt said:

    It also could be that your fill valve is open, as DD69 suggested, or it's gone bad.  Mine was plastic and would no longer close, so I replaced it with a brass ball valve.  No more problem, until I had to replace my back flow valve 3 months ago.  If you hear your pump start/stop when on City water...bad back flow valve.  My water pump is also in a bad location in my water bay!

    The fill valve is a brass ball valve.  It works properly.  Thank you.


  2. I have a 2014 American Eagle.

    The fresh water tank is filling when I am hooked to campground water.  My guess is that the back-flow valve in the pump is stuck open and allowing water to flow back into the fresh water tank.  I ordered a SHURflo 340-001 In Line Check Valve that I hope to install and hope this will solve my problem.  I assume the check valve will go between the water pump and the fresh water tank.  However, the water pump is way back in the utility bay.  It looks like I must first disassemble part of this bay to gain access to the pump.  Does anyone have some experience with this problem they can share to guide me along the way?  This will be the first time I have worked on this problem.

    Thank you


  3. I think I figured out the problem.  The "striker pin" (my definition) did not strike the "trigger bar" (which unlocks the door), and thus the door would not unlock.  Upon visual inspection the trigger bar seemed to be slightly worn at the point where the striker pin touches the trigger bar.  I glued a small clip over the top of the trigger bar at the point where the striker pin touches the trigger bar, thus making the trigger bar a bit higher at the strike point.  The door has opened perfectly since this fix.  I think of the trigger bar as being similar to the trigger on a mouse trap.  A slight touch by the trigger pin and the trigger bar instantly releases the door.  I may be wrong but, so far, it works perfectly.  Just hope the glue holds.


  4. 5 hours ago, hermanmullins said:

    I know of one person that knows how to open the door. I have seen Charlie Adcock crawl in a window and open the door from the inside. You may be able to contact him to see what it takes.  If I remember there is a spring that breaks. 

    His email was cadcock@fmca.

    Herman 

    Well, Charlie and I now have something in common.  It was not easy but, ( it takes a younger, smaller, nimble body) I got my frame through the DS window and eventually got the door open.  All of the mechanisms was intact until I unhooked the horizontal arm from the outside handle and broke the clip.  Hopefully NAPA will have a clip.  After a lot of study ... A part of the problem is that the arms and pieces are not aligned, so every time the door is opened the parts are on somewhat of a bind.  Lots of lube helps.  The main problem is that there is a trigger release for the jaws that wrap around the horizontal pin.  (Somewhat like the trigger on a mouse trap).  There is a metal pin that hits that trigger ... ever so slightly.  And, I think that metal pin is worn, ever so slightly.  So, with slight wear and some slight katy whompis alignment, the metal pin has some difficulty engaging the trigger.  It now takes two (2) pulls on the handle to trip the trigger and release the jaws.  The metal pin and trigger are inside the main mechanics which I must completely remove from the door to inspect and adjust.  A little like taking the insides out of a clock.  I hesitate to remove the inner workings as I am not sure I would get the insides back together and properly aligned so the door will work.

    So, I am going to look for a very small U clip that I hope will fit over the trigger thus improving the contact area for the metal pin. 

    I think this would work properly IF, it was aligned and not on a bind.  So, I question the factory installation?

    Advice is welcome.

     

     

     


  5. Yes ... 2011 AWD. Installed switches so I do not have to pull fuses each time. We also have a 2012 Jeep Liberty that we tow. The Jeep is easier but not as comfortable. So, on extended stays, we take the Traverse. I was foolish and burnt the brakes on the Traverse. I started the Traverse during a rest stop without removing the tow brake. The tow brake ratcheted tighter so the brakes were slightly applied, resulting in four new brake shoes. A costly mistake!


  6. We went on the 60 day Fantasy caravan tour this summer - greatly exceeded all our expectations !! Both the Wagon Master and Tail Gunner went above and beyond all our expectations - In my opinion, the only way to enjoy AK and western Canada is by caravan - not only do you enjoy tours you may not do by yourselves, but as an added bonus, you now have close friends you didn't have at the beginning of the trip - Send me a PM for more details if you want - can't say enought about Fantasy !!

    Money and time well spent !!

    X2


  7. The EMS-PT50C is a stellar performer and the comapny, Progressive Industries, is a stand-up company that backs their product with a warranty that is unsurpassed. They are quick to respond to any problem - at least that has been my relationship.

    I also prefer the portable PT50C. I did purchase, or had, a tow chain about 2-1/2 to 3 feet in length that I wrap around the pedistal or any other object and secure it with padlocks. It keeps the honest RV'ers out (99.9%) and protects to some degree the "drive-through" passerbys. The nice feature is that you can take it with you when you transfer to a different RV.

    The PT50C has protected me several times in the last few years with anomalies at different campgrounds. I never leave home in the RV without it.

    X 2


  8. I purchased the 7710 in May and really like it. I do keep it updated, No issues ... Great Unit. Previously, I have had several Garmin units, the one with truck info, and another brand for trucks. So far, I like the 7710 the best!

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