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mcgsecrest

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Posts posted by mcgsecrest

  1. Posted · Report reply

    aztec7fan,

    I prepared a LONG Explanation and lost it. I wanted Wolfe to join us. Long story short, whether propane or generator, cooling fluid in an Absorption system pools in the bottom of the coils. If not level, a corner of the tank can overheat and fail prematurely. Your attitude about pechilling IS Preferred.

    May I suggest a disposable cooler for Meds/ Condiments and don't start the fridge till you leave home. Buy a thermometer for the freezer & in 2 hours you should be chilling on Gen (Propane is not advised in transit). Theory is that in transit, the fluid sloshes and the system doesn't overheat. Study these systems and ask others.

    Perhaps turn your rig around in your driveway & see if less leveling is required. Part of the fun of RVing is solving situations, Join us !

    Gary

  2. Posted · Report reply

    The no start issue... If your coach has factory Fuel injection, you should hear the fuel pump relay start & release each time you go to "Bulb Check" position. That is the last position before the starter activates. As when a vehicle runs out of gas, may I suggest turning the key on (NO Start) & back off several times... allow 3 seconds at bulb check for pump to run. Listen for the relay activity.

    As for level ref... More than poor cooling is at risk when ref is not level. Read your Ref Manual carefully. Replacements are expensive. Use a 6" level side to side & fore/ aft ON THE FLOOR OF THE REF OR FREEZER ! Frequently sink drain board & stove top may not read the same as ref.

    Good luck.,

    Gary

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Sounds like some good replies, indeed. Ask the Ford dealer for Recalls & TSBs. Also, I think it's NHTSA.GOV for Recalls & Tech notes. When using OBD2 Data codes REMEMBER the code doesn't tell you the failure, mearly the system to test through ! Examine the wire harness connectors throughout for corrosion. Frequently unplugging & reconnecting will scrape a poor connection. Perhaps disconnect the battery while troubleshooting to avoid ECM or BCM computer issues. A great Terminal Enhancer is "Deox-It", a bit pricy but can be used thruout the coach. It is a chemical metal contact enhancer. Good Luck, Gary

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Re: fully charged batteries... Please search Gary Bunzer the RV Doctor, navigate to Battery topics. First both house batteries should be replaced at the same time with exact matched batteries... I know it's expensive. Secondly I'll ask you to follow my direction in your mind... Either 2-12v or 4- 6v batteries are wired with jumpers. frequently, if you move the positive or neg cable to oposite ends from each other, both batteries are electrically forced to work equally and charge equally. DO NOT RECONFIGURE THE SERIES WIRING OR SERIES PARALLEL ! Draw it on paper, the way your wiring is now & consider Moving 1 pos or neg output. Check battery electrolite level frequently and carefully top w distilled water and a turkey baster (Dollar Store) Finally, YES I have better luck on shore power & Generator than Battery alone. Hope this helps. Gary

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Kevin510...... Generally speaking with modern engine tech, Plugs may last 100,000 miles, routinely. A missing plug would likely turn on the On Board Diagnostic "Check Engine" Light. In addition,

    A Plug Wire, if used, may be replaced only if it tests bad... Not necessarily the whole set.

    Use Premium Quality Plugs, Pay the Price ! Barrel Plugs will Haunt you.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Wolfe10... totally understood. My reply was to Alex Ball who said 8.1s run hot. I encountered VERY cold weather while driving in an ice storm. The front of my Landau is there only to hold the windshield... It does nothing for creature warmth. Teasing my mechanic I suggested cardboard "BRA" for the front of my Rig, he nearly fainted.

    Yes indeed mechanical fans....As the post back a few "The Roar".

    You're Right Sir.

    Gary

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Alex Ball et al........... I have a 2450 Landau 8.1

    I suggested to my mechanic I'd cover the grille to stop frigid air thru firewall bulkhead.

    ABSOLUTELY NOT... as you said, this engine runs very hot routinely.

    I got a Workhorse recall, 2004, Vortec 8.1 Fuel Rail, pressure regulator steel hairpin BREAKS & SPRAYS FUEL.

    If this applies to any of you, hope this helps.

    Gary

  10. Posted · Report reply

    J79engine... Try getting a FREE battery load test at Advance or Autozone for a base line test on the chassis battery. Follow up with a good quality Hydrometer. I KNOW... messy but they don't lie.

    My Rig's Converter/ Inverter DOESN'T charge the chassis battery while maintaining the house batteries very well. My workhorse only charges the chassis battery from the Engine Alternator. You drive a few hours yet there is lots of parasatic drain 24-7, 365. I augment the system with an inexpensive charger/ maintainer for the chassis battery.

    Caution, Don't overcharge.

    Good luck

    Gary

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Here's the scoop, Continued... getting the wheel weights of you toad is part of the tire pressure maint. checks. On Toads and any other Vehicle, the proper pressure is on a sticker, in your door jamb.

    SURPRISE !, the factory has hurriedly weighed that car at manufacture... NEVER USE THE TIRE SIDEWALL MAX Pressure. The "must have junk" you cram in the toad adds weight but endeavor to zero in on a proper pressure for your car tires too.


    As for the ISO-Heat, I have a 60 gallon GAS tank... I pop 3 bottles in ANYTIME to treat 60g... full would be good. Yes, you've heard it's a winter water drier but it has beneficial additives for 10%ethanol we have in the NE.


    Kevin510, What is your year & Engine Size... I missed that.


    Gary

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Here's the scoop.... use Iso-Heat Year around as directed... as stated you used the cheapest... Iso-Heat is isoprophol, not methanol. In the summer, it offsets the damaging effects of ethanol fuels. (Sold in Walmart).

    Next have your rig weighed at a ralley w/ toad or a moving & storage scale. Weigh EACH WHEEL Separately & note them. Armed with individual wheel set weights on each axle, use the highest for all tires on that axle... Front axles & rear will differ. Set pressures from chart noting single or dual. Take your time... It's important !

    Have all fluids at normal range... Propane , all waters, groceries & folks. Note your CCC# Cargo carrying Capacity... bet you are over that. Find a tire pressure chart... Good Year, Bridgestone, whatever & set your pressure every morning pre trip !

    Run EXACTLY THE FUEL RECOMMENDED IN YOUR CHASSIS ENGINE MANUAL... High Test actually isn't rocket fuel but burns slower than 87. You don't need add-ons! Find a shop with a $20,000. Scan tool, not Car MD. Have a diagnostic done. It can read a faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor which will adjust fuel flow incorrectly. (Scan all data streams & Sensors)

    All of this will save you money, I promise. Do a little bit at a time...

    The weight & tire pressure calculations will remain the same until you change something in the coach.

    Let us know,

    Gary

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