raywaller

The Magnum ME-2012 modified sine wave inverters (2) came with my 2005 TS-ME coach and have worked fine for years. It was only after a trip I took and stayed at a Government run travel facility outside Austin TX, and a KOA south of Wichita KS, that my problem started. The microwave started making strange noises (different from normal), so I thought it was going bad (since it was an original unit). I keep my coach connected to 50 AMP shore power in my barn, but the microwave problem exists on generator or shore power. I found the voltage jumping and varying when the microwave runs, but only if it is plugged into outlets supported by one of the inverters; the voltage does not change if the microwave is plugged into outlets supported by the other inverter. I sent the suspected inverter to a Magnum certified service center, but they said it checks out fine. Since the transfer switch is a common denominator for the shore and generator power sources, I thought I should better understand how it works. Are the inverters on separate cables from the distribution side of the switch, or are they both on one cable (both inverters being connected in parallel to their incoming ac power). If parallel, then both inverters should be acting the same. But if there are independent cables from the transfer switch to the inverters, then the transfer switch must have internal contacts/circuitry that might be causing problems for only one of the inverters. Since Travel Supreme is out of business, and I don't have wiring diagrams in the documentation that came with the coach, I decided I better reach out to FMCA members for help on how multiple inverters are normally wired. All advice/suggestions would be appreciated.

I have a 42 ft, all electric 2005 Travel Supreme Mid Engine coach. My question is "how are the two Magnum inverters connected to the transfer switch that is between the inverters and shore power or auxiliary generator"? The inverter that provides power to my microwave has checked good, so the Magnum rep and I now think the problem of "varying" voltage is coming from the transfer switch.

I'm sorry. I should have mentioned that the 2 Harris batteries I'm referring to are "maintenance-free" and are used for starting the main diesel engine. I don't seem to be having any problems with the bank of 8 wet-cell batteries I routinely maintain, and that are used for coach requirements. As far as the make and model of the charging system(s), and what the optional settings are, I'll have to check on it. Again, I should have done this ahead of time, and included with my original post. Thank you for your in-depth response. I really appreciate it. Ray

I own a 2007 Travel Supreme MS (Mid-Engine) RV that came equipped with two Harris Commercial Plus batteries (CTX31S-9 CCA 954 CA 1185 RC 210). In the past couple of days, my storage barn has been reeking of a“rotten egg/dead animal” odor that seems to be coming from the batteries. I have disconnected the 50 AMP shore power, so the charging system will not continue to charge/maintain the batteries, while I troubleshoot the issue. As a result, I have a few questions: 1) Since the batteries are 4 to 5 years old, do you suspect they are the source of my problem. 2) If you don’t think the batteries are old enough to have caused the problem, do you think the charging system might have damaged the batteries, and would have to be repaired before replacing the batteries (if they are damaged). 3) How do I determine if the batteries are bad/damaged. 4) How do I determine if the charging system is performing properly. Any help with these questions would be appreciated. Thank you, Ray Waller

I was able to remove the trim board (2 screws inside left and right adjacent cabinets) and tighten the three hanging bolts. The unit is now tight against the horizontal stop-boards mounted behind the trim board and around three edges of the unit. The unit is now level, so it should be more efficent. Hindsight suggests that I should have removed each bolt and added a lock washer to each one (or applied lock-tight), but I can always do that if the unit vibrates loose again. Otherwise, problem resolved. Thanks to everyone for their advice and help. Ray

Brett Good advise. I think I now know how to remove the trim board (adjacent cabinet seems to have two screws associated with the mc trim board). Will let everyone know my results. Thanks, Ray

Jack: Thanks for the quick response, and for the detailed explanation/guidance. I'll take a closer look and let you know what I find. I do know there are bolts going from the top of the microwave into the ceiling of the coach, but will check to see how/if it is mounted to the wall of the coach. The bolts I can see seem to be coming through oversized holes in the ceiling, as if they might be bolts that have nuts with those spring-loaded wings that are pushed up through the hole. Just guessing. Ray

I have a TS ME that has a microwave unit mounted above the stove top. One corner of the microwave appears to be hanging lower than it should (either I never noticed before, or it has changed over time), and it squeaks a lot during travel. I'm assuming the top part of the faceplate of the microwave can be removed/popped off somehow, giving access to the hanging mounting bolts, but I'm reluctant to pull on the faceplate for fear of breaking it. Does anyone know how I can either remove the faceplate, or how to gain access to the mounting bolts (without removing any of the overhead wood trim), so I can either tighten the bolts or satisfy myself that the unit isn't going to come crashing down on the stove top someday. Your comments/suggestions would be appreciated.

Once I recharged the air-brake system, the brake lights worked; both problems are now resolved. I mentioned what I had found (two blown fuses) to my old friend who was traveling with me during the trip. He reminded me that I had my right-turn signal on, and was applying the coach brakes as I turned right out of the restaurant parking lot. When the right corner of the trailer bottomed-out, and the wire-nut was crushed/pulled off, the bare wires were probably mashed against the trailer frame, causing the two fuses to blow. I'm back in business! Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Ray

Jon: Please see my response to Brett. If I still have problems, I will check the relay associated with the Brake Lights fuse, and then if necessary find and test the brake light switch you mentioned. Many thanks, Ray

Frank: Thanks for your input. I will revisit their manual, but I think when I first read it they referred me to the coach manufacturer's user's manual for fuse locations. And as you know, most coach manuals tend to be generic (in some areas) as they are written to cover several models. Please see my response to Brett. I appreciate all the help I can get, so after reading my response to Brett, please don't hesitate to offer further suggestions. Many thanks, Ray

Brett: I checked with Spartan and they confirmed there should be a fuse box in one of the compartments near the engine, but since they did not build very many mid-engine units for TS, they couldn't be more specific (even having been given the last 5 digits of my VIN number). Having this new information, I resumed my search compartment by compartment until I found their fuse box. It is located in the compartment containing the 50 amp cable reel. I found both the 15 amp Brake Light and the 7.5 amp Right Brake Light/Turn Signal fuses were blown. After replacing both fuses, the right turn signal now works, but the brake lights still do not work. Since I borrowed the fuse from the Back Up Alert slot (it indicates it is suppose to be a 10 amp fuse, but someone had installed a 15 amp fuse), I intend to replace that fuse (first with a 10 amp, then a 15 amp if necessary), and the 7.5 amp fuse I borrowed from the Trailer Right Brake Light/Turn Signal, start the coach to remove the Low Air indicator (i.e., recharge the brakes, etc) and then contine troubleshooting. If I resolve the remaining issue (no brake lights) without blowing any fuses, I will problably conclude an exposed wire at the rear corner of my open trailer I was towing caused the problem; when pulling out of a restaurant parking lot, the rear of the trailer bottomed-out and a wirenut was pulled off leaving an exposed wire junction to flop in the wind close to the trailer frame. Thank you so much for your help. Ray

Brett, No, because I thought they just furnished the chassis to TS, who then built the final product. However, your suggestion to contact Spartan is a good one, as I have seen their deliverable and it looks like something that can be driven (i.e., should have lights). I'll try them. Ray

My brake lights have stopped working and I can't find the brake light fuse on my Travel Supreme Mid-engine. It doesn't seem to be in the major fuse box which is accessible outside and below the driver. The right rear signal light has stopped working also, even though the bulb looks ok. I've determined, using a VOM, that I am not receiving the proper control voltage at the rear of the coach (for the right rear signal light), so the problem must be somewhere in the front of the coach (under the dash panel ??/in line fuse??). Any help would be appreciated. Ray