Refrigerator Vents

[Refrigerator Vents]

A word of caution. Just because an after market RV company builds something for one's RV does not mean it is safe or complies with ANSI codes. There have been many aftermarket items that preclude safety and performance issues and all marketed with total disregard for the unsuspecting consumer. Only one example is an after market "knife" switch used at the battery to kill the battery. Any spark at the battery is dangerous due to the presence of hydrogen gas when the battery is charged. Why would you assume that Camco has done the necessary homework to insure maximum performance? Some of the Camco products I have purchased have been totally inferior and did not perform as desired.

A retired RV manufacturing manager.

[Valve Lash Check/Adjustment]

I had my valve lash adjustment at 27,000 miles on my CAT 330hp at the local CAT dealer. It was pricey to have done, but I saw an immediate 1.3 mpg fuel economy increase and improved power in the mountains in the west. I was told the valve lash on two cylinders was out of spec.significantly.

DWF

[Quality of electric supply in RV parks]

A number of recent postings have dealt with the necessity for surge protectors, autoformers and other electrical apparatus to protect RV's. Part of the need for these devices is the uneven quality of electrical supply in RV Parks.

I've heard it, I imagine most of have heard it at one time or another. You go to a park office complaining about the quality of the electricity. They tell you that they never know what they are going to get from the electric company this time of year. Or some variation of this. They blame the electric company. While we do hear of "brown outs" occasionally during times of extreme electrical usage in areas with a strained grid, these are isolated and rare.

I went to the office in an RV park in Valdez, Alaska with just such a complaint several years ago. And their response was the "blame the electric company" answer. Rather than accept that response and walk off, I was armed with information and I responded. First of all, my coach has a built-in monitor of electrical current. I know the voltage, amperage used and cycle of the electric I am getting. I knew that when I turned on an air conditioner I was using an amperage within the limits of the supply the campground should have been supplying. I could also see that the voltage dropped from the desirable 120 volts down to about 100 volts when I ran the air conditioner. This could damage the air conditioner if left running on this electric supply. I explained to the clerk at the desk that I was certain that my turning on the air conditioner didn't drop the voltage across the entire electrical grid by 20 volts! I assured her that this was an indication that the wiring within the campground was not sufficient to provide the promised 30 amps.

The fact is that campground owners can put a 50 amp box on any post and connect it with any wire. It will only supply 50 amps of electricity per line if it has a wire of adequate size, #6 or #4 wire depending on the length of run. With a wire that is too small, the voltage will drop as the amperage drawn increases. It isn't the fault of the electric company, the fault lies with the campground owner. Why do campground owners do this? Many campgrounds were wired 30 or 40 years ago. They were wired with little regulation and frequently self done with an eye to saving money. If they have been upgraded since, many were likewise upgraded with no regulation and were done as cheaply as possible. Maybe they do it for the same reason that people buy cheap extension cords to run expensive equipment.

In the old days, 30 amps probably seemed to be plenty of electric and owners may have assumed they could use a #12 wire (sufficient for 20 amps) because nobody would actually use all 30 amps or would only do so briefly and they could get away with #12. Who knows but the fact is that you will encounter campgrounds where the wiring is inadequate and you will not get the electric you are paying for. One hint may be when they want to charge you extra to use an air conditioner or a heater. I figure that their rate for 30 amps means I get 30 amps for whatever I want to use them for. If I am paying an extra $2 or $3 for 50 amps, I get to use 50 amps all the time if I want. It shouldn't matter what I am using it for.

What can we do about it as consumers?

First, I would like to see the major campground directories, Trailer Life and Woodall's add descriptors for the quality of electric (I'd like to see the same for wi-fi). This could be as simple as a code E:0 (for NO) does not meet electrical code, E:X (for excellent) for meets electrical code. Once these ratings were published there would be a strong economic reason for campgrounds to meet electrical codes. I suppose we could ask that all campground owners have an electrical inspection certificate posted in their office like elevator inspection certificates! There is something for the legislative arm of FMCA to work on.

Second, inform the campground owner (not just a clerk) when you find a sub-standard supply at your post. Be ready to show them your electrical meter readings. Do not accept excuses given above. Convince them that you know it is their problem and they should fix it. Don't expect that they will fix it on the spot for you. You might be able to move to a different site with a proper electrical supply. Or perhaps you should get your money back and go to a different campground.

Third, contact local authorities, city, county or state, and complain about the problem. In many cases, the work has not been done by a qualified electrician and/or has not been inspected by proper inspectors. These are safety issues and when brought to the attention of appropriate authorities (preferably in writing) it is hard for them to ignore them. Once informed of the problem and its safety implications the liability for any accident passes at least partially from the campground owner to the authorities who have been informed.

Finally, if you have to stay at a park for some reason, why not ask for a discount for sub-standard electric? Hey, if they say they are supplying 30 amp or 50 amp electric and sold you that spot on that basis they should give a refund if they aren't able to supply what they sold you.

Most important, let them know they have a problem and you know about it. If enough people complain, they will have to start thinking about solutions.