wingman5th

Thanks Bill. So that being said, (450+ hotter), what is a safe turbo input temp red line so that i can set my output temp red line?

Okay sports fans, we have some initial results. Finally got the harness and gauge installed and took the coach out today for a short run. With cruise set at 65 over rolling hills here in northern Mississippi, EGT normally ranged in the high 700s to low 800s. Climbing a grade with about 23 psi of boost, EGT was stable at about 840. Some occasional peaks just over 900 but they were momentary and I didn't have a chance to gather any other parameters before temp settled lower. Varying the set level of the installed MP-8 module from off to 50% had no apparent affect on EGT. This was just a short 30 minute run so I will monitor over longer range and varying grades/loads to get a better idea of my EGT ranges.

Wow, had no idea my question would generate so much discussion. Again, thank you to all for your input. This is my first DP and have only 28,000 miles of experience in the few years I have owned it. I was warned almost from the day I bought it to allow the turbo to cool before shutting down but never knew how long that was or what to look for so a minute or two of idle time was the norm. I'm sorry I have no data to provide but the gauge Freightliner provided was too big for my dash real estate and they only provided 14 feet of cable. I am picking up a smaller digital indicator and a 50 foot harness later today and will install as soon as travel schedule permits. The FL tech's did say there did not appear to be signs of overheating but not knowing the right questions as well as being rather stressed at my situation, I really didn't get into a good discussion about the possible cause of failure. As I mentioned early on in this thread, I had no warning or indication prior to failure. No Check Engine, no Engine Protect, no Engine Shutdown. It ran great all day until I pulled off the highway and stopped. My only indication was no power when I tried to go and saw 0 psi on turbo boost readout of driver info center. Coolant temp, oil pressure were normal and engine had good rpm and no smoke from exhaust. Tech's did pull one code from computer, 102-1, Low Boost Pressure. Their inspection report stayed "found turbo locked up and pushing oil."

Wolfe10, sorry for the delay but I wanted to get you the right answer about the EGT sensor location and I haven't had a chance to get under the rig. It is actually mounted post turbo, which I know is not best and it is actually post exhaust brake. I have included a picture. As you can see, the sensor is to the left of the brake which is left of the turbo exhaust outlet. Hopefully you can give me a good idea what my temps should be ay this point.

One last question for everyone. Now that I have a pyro kit installed, what is thr normal temp range that should I be looking for and what would be my yellow and red lines?

Thanks for all the input. CAC is being flushed and cleaned, pyro/EGT being installed, air filter replaced and oil sample taken.

Update: They tore it down today and the turbo failed. Apparently bearing failure causing vanes to strike housing and eat themselves. Oil went into CAC so they have to pull and flush it out. Picture attached.

Thanks, will have them check

Rich, Based on my limited research and knowledge, I have a waste gate with the vacuum controlled diaphragm. I tried to move the control rod by hand with no joy. At this point and time of day, I will just wait to see what the mechs tell me tomorrow. Thanks to all for the input and I will update once i have an answer.

Thanks Rich. Not hearing the spool up but haven't gone back to listen. I've checked all visible hoses and all appear intact. A friend had the same compressor issue so I checked that as well. Hoping it is simple and inexpensive as well. Any thoughts on wastegate being stuck open?

Bill I am observing boost indication on driver information readout and correct, no smoke. Thanks, Karl

Rich, Engine rpm seems normal. No load in neutral, rpm increases to 2700 with throttle to the floor but Turbo psi remains at 0. No indication of a fuel leak. Driving to shop this am, I could slowly but gradually increase speed to 35 to 40 mph. RPM seemed to peak around 1700 as transmission tried to shift. Could only get to 4th gear.

I do not have any unusual smoke. Very clean exhaust and no other indications of failure. No dash alerts or warnings.

Hello all. I have a 2007 Damon Tuscany with a Cat C7 350HP. At the end of a full day of driving mountains in Easter WA and OR, I stopped in ID to spend the night. After stopping at a light at the end of the ramp, when I stepped on the throttle to go, I had no power. With pedal to floor I could barely get 25 mph, downhill. Turbo psi was 0. Limped to Walmart for the night then on to Freightliner this morning. Camped here till they get to me tomorrow. Based on various sources, checked all hoses which seem to be intact. Any thoughts, other than obvious turbo failure? Was unable to move wastegate actuator by hand. Could being stuck open cause my 0 psi problem?

Thanks for the responses. Seemed obvious to me but that's usually when I check myself.

I have a 2007 Damon Tuscany with two 15,000K A/C / heat pumps with ceiling ducts. The original units were 13.5K but I upgraded each as they needed replacement. I found that the previous owner placed rags in the ducts approximately 2/3 of the way back essentially creating two separate systems. The front unit cools/heats the foward 2/3 of the coach (living room and kitchen) and the rear unit cools the remaining 1/3 (bedroom and bath). My question is, is this a good or bad situation? It seems the front unit has to work harder to cool a larger space and the rear unit could assist. By removing the duct blocks I could also benefit from a single unit cooling the whole coach if I am on only 30 amp power. Does anyone see a downside to removing the rags and returning the system to its original design?