luvtheus

Arthur what engine is in your coach, Ford 460 or a Chevy 454? Yes a poor charging alternator could cause an ignition problem but you would also have problems with your headlights being dim, etc. Your alternator should be putting out around 13.4 volts to the battery when the engine is running. If it is not then you need the charging system checked out by someone who knows what they are doing. If the system is good then your problem is either in the ignition system or the fuel system. What all have you done or replaced?

Replaced the pickup coil on the distributor two days ago. Didn't fix the problem. Getting ready to remove both fuel injectors and send them off to " Mr Injector" to have them cleaned and flow tested and flow matched. Even if this doesn't fix the problem at least both injectors will be like new. So, here I am scratching my head again.

Herman, I'mpretty sure Tim's is a throttle body injection like mine. These look like a carb but are far from it. For that period it was GM's answer to a carb and I think they worked better than a carb, but they came with their own problems. I'm having problems with my engine which is a gen 5 454 tbi 220 model made in 1992. It has the OBD1 system which was the predecessor to the OBD2 system that all cars 1998 I think and newer have now. With the OBD1 system you don't need a code reader to get your codes. A paper clip works when inserted into the proper holes and the service engine light flashes in a way to give the code that is stored in the system. Mine showed code 22 which is the Throttle position sensor voltage low. I replaced the tps but the problem still exists. Today I ordered a pickup coil for the distributor in hopes that this will fix the problem. If not then back to scratching my head again......

Tim I have the same problem with my 1993 Southwind on a P-30 chassis. My 454 has 78xxx miles and has run very well up until it started doing, I believe, what yours is doing. I have tested the MAP sensor, replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor) - I replaced that because the OBD1 system on mine said the TPS had low voltage. Replacing it did no good. Engine has the DI type distributor. It is not an HEI like its predecessors, it has the ignition coil mounted off to the left on the intake manifold (changed that with a spare coil I had) no change there. The plug wires are the MSD street Fire 8mm ones and the spark plugs seem to be firing. I installed headers last year on the engine. Good thing about headers is that you can test the temperature on each one of the tubes while the engine is running to see if they are all the same temp and if not then likely one of the spark plugs are bad. I have not changed the coolant temp sensor on the front of the intake manifold but the engine idles like it should, high when cold and then idles down when warm. I tested the EGR valve and the vacuum ports on the throttle body and they appear to be good. I replaced the in tank fuel pump last month thinking it was fuel starvation while going up hills at WOT(wide open throttle). The fuel pressure with the old pump was low showing around 8 psi on the pressure gage that I permanently mounted 3 inches from the throttle body on the pressure line. I have a timing light that I bought just for this engine and checked the ignition timing ( with the brown wire disconnected on the distributor) and set it to around 10 btdc. One thing I have not checked yet is the timing advance with the brown wire connect while revving the engine to around 2500 rpm. Will need to get help from my better half for that to press the gas pedal (or rather the air control pedal). I plan on sending the two fuel injectors to a place called "Mr. Injector" to be cleaned and flow matched. I'm not really sure about your distributor but mine does not have a vacuum advance or the mechanical advance on it. I did remove it from the engine last night to check the shaft for any play and it seems to be in good condition. I am at a loss here. I really don't want to take the motorhome to a shop just to hear that they cannot find the problem and then be charged for the time they spent looking at it. Being a vet on disability I can't go out and keep throwing money at this thing anymore. We have not been able to use the coach much this year because of this problem. Its very frustrating not being able to enjoy the coach because I can't find the problem to what is causing it to fall on its face while going up hills at wot or close to wide open throttle. Like Tim when it starts to cut out and run bad if I back off the pedal it will resume acceptable running but go above that spot and, well, it is not good. Especially if towing the Mini Cooper, its even worse. As long as there are no hills or other vehicles to pass the engine seems to run very well. This is my first time posting on here guys. Hope I did it right and made sense to all. Thanks. John MSGT Ret USAF