redline8300

Fifth Wheel. 2013 Raptor

I recently had a small leak on one of the LP tank gas lines prior to the regulator and replaced this section of line. With the new line, hooked up to three different full tanks, LP will not flow from it. If I unthread the line and blow on it, I get a small pop though the line then it stops. This tells me there is a small check valve in the new line, has anyone heard of these being added as a safety feature? I think this is similar to the check valve on washing machine supply lines. While removed from the regulator, I have connected both the old and new lines to multiple tanks, and the old line allows gas through with the new one will "popping" then nothing. Comparing the old line and new line, the opening in the old line is larger but the projection on the end is visibly shorter than the new hose. I'm currently tempted to run a drill bit through the end of the new line, where it threads onto the tank, and test my theory on the check valve. I've also tried two separate hoses and both do the same.

Per the 1WM in the serial number on the engine, it should be a 3126 and per the Gillig Chassis Manual, the pre-96 models were a 3116. I'll double check the connections, but they all looked clean and tight. I'll check the sense wire as well.

Acid batteries and they are all bad. In the process of changing them out. With the generator running the gauge is bouncing. If this doesn't work I'm flying out tonight. I'm going to be down there for over a year so $500/month lot rent is cheaper than a hotel or apartment.

Inside of 20 seconds, back and forth, the electronic readout bounces between the numbers.

I tried, but when I shut down the coach batteries I loose the ability to get the digital readout. After changing out the batteries in the morning I was going to get a cat tech computer to read it from the data port and see what he comes up with on the chassis side.

I pulled out one of the old ones and they weigh slightly more than half of one of the new ones. Hopefully this is the problem and I can hit the road for New Orleans tomorrow. Or else the universe is telling me to not head down there for work.

I have a 1996 Beaver Marquis with a 3126E and an Allison 6 speed and I have an electrical problem that has me stumped. Going down the road for about an hour I noticed the voltage gauge at slightly above 12.5. Checking the electronic readout, it was bouncing from 11.8 to 13.0. After another 30 minutes the hp from the engine dropped off, wouldn't build boost. I pulled into a parking lot and tried to rev the engine still no boost. It did the same thing when I lost the HEUI. After 30 minutes of idling, the voltage was bouncing from 12.3 to 13.6 and building boost again. I turned around and headed home. The voltage stayed above 12.3. I got home and checking the voltage at the chassis battery, with the engine off it is 12.89, per my manual it says 12.3-12.6 is the correct range. I tried doing the Field Test on the alternator and I'm not getting anywhere. After an hour off at the house I started the RV and the voltage gauge is around 13 an the readout bounces from 12.6 to 14.2. The chassis battery is less than a year old and starts the engine without an issue so I don't think this is the problem. The coach batteries are old, could they be causing this issue? I think the inverter is on it's way out, could this be causing the problem. I'm going to continue to dig into wiring diagrams and see if I can find anything.

I only need the RV when I'm on a job and I just wrapped up rehab from knee surgery.

Early on I disconnected the waste gate arm and the actuator thinking I may have had something bad on that end and wired it what I thought was closed, turns out I wired it open. Before we changed out the transfer pump we could get it to idle, still low power but it would idle. After we changed it out it barely ran and then stopped all together. We put an electric pump sucking fuel through the filters and the existing lines and the beast screamed to life. When we disconnected the pump and fired it up it roared to life. The hope that it was a trapped air bubble finally working out was dashed when it died about 30 seconds later. Both filters were still filled with fuel. Thinking that the issue was the transfer pump it came back off and moving the plunger you could hear it pumping but when it went back on the HEIU it wasn't building any suction. The mechanic changed out the HEUI and it drove great. Not sure what was wrong with the drive lobe on the original HEUI but for some reason it would drive the original pump but not enough fuel was getting to the engine.

Turns out it was the HEUI. I will type out a more elaborate explanation of what all we did before we came to that conclusion but I just got back from driving it home and have only had 2.5 hours of sleep in almost 2 days.

Right now the intake tube is disconnected while we checked for fuel leaks but I have checked the filter and it was clean. The 232.4 came up as the 5+ volt issue. My google foo came back with one of the 5 sensors that run the engine is causing that error or a bad ECM. That is why the jumping boost pressure is bothering me. I had it downshift a few drives ago and it jumped up to 16 but came down to 10 and today it isn't reading at all. With the trans in neutral it is slow to rev. I checked around all the boost hoses and squeezing around them I couldn't feel any splits. Not the best method, but at that time we figured that we had a fueling issue. When running don't hear the sound of pressure blowing off. Couldn't see any soot around the exhaust manifold. We found an diesel shop not that far away and will try to get one of their guys to swing on by next week.

I have a 1997 Beaver Marquis and I'm having major problems with no low end power or top end power. The problem started out on a drive from Baton Rogue to Terre Haute. It was going down the road at 65 one minute then it was struggling to maintain 45 mph for the duration of the drive. I've changed all the filters and have ran a temp fuel hose on the outside of the RV to verify that the one under it isn't my problem. I just replaced the transfer pump and rebuilt the check valve and the injector pressure jumped from the 780's to 860's. The only code the engine throws a 232.4 when you rev it up. The turbo seems tight but it's not reading any boost pressure right now and the other week I could get it to read up to 10 lbs. The RV is 6 hours from home and the drive here is getting annoying trying to fix it.