rcoon2

Thanks for the input everyone. Apparently there are many models of Penguin II AC / Heat Pumps. I went down many rabbit holes chasing the illusive sub $1000 penguin only to find it was the wrong part number I searched many online sources with seemingly good prices. But once you dig into the meat of the offer, add in shipping and wait time they turn out to be not such a good deal. The cheapest i found was PPL $1200 ish, But when you add in shipping it wasn't that great of a deal and unfortunately they didn't stock the unit so it was a minimum of 2 weeks out. Turns out Amazon had one of the higher prices $1442 but no shipping cost and delivery next week! Plus if there is damage amazon usually makes it insanely easy to return items. Not trying to promote amazon they don't always have the best deals just worked out this time...i hope Now back to my bathroom floor tiling project! Have a good day all!

I am Located in northern Florida, just sold my house in Northern WIsconsin! Dometic only recommends service centers which is probably the easier option. But I like to do my own fixin PPL seems to have the best price but oddly enough they do not sell the appropriate thermostat. Guess I can go PPL for the AC unit then go Amazon for the thermostat. Thanks to all, Rick

All good ideas gentleman, however my aqua-hot system is as previously mentioned 23+ years old and has worked on diesel (since i have owned it) a total of 3 hours after a tune up! The system works well enough on electric for domestic hot water but is inadequate to keep the coach warm even in a mild florida winter. Also the 23 year old hydronic heat exchanger fans are anything but quiet.I suppose i could shell out several hundred thousand and upgrade to a new coach or $10+ grand for a new aqua-hot system. Nope i think i'll be putting a $1500 heat pump to the test and see how that works. Talked with Dometic on Friday, they were able to give me a "direct replacement" for my aged air conditioners as well as upgrades to the thermostats. Any idea where is the best place to order them from? Thanks for your thoughts everyone.

Thanks for the info everyone. My two air conditioners are on separate 20 amp breakers and pretty much all the 15K BTU units seem to be about equivalent to the current draw of my 23 year old units, so no problem there. Yes i am going to install myself. My wife had a good idea for getting them up to the roof. We are going to rent a man lift to trim some of our trees so we will use that as long as the timing comes out right. Thanks to all and I will update as soon as i get them installed, have a good day, Rick

Hello everyone. My coach is a 1995 beaver marquis. The rear AC stopped working for some reason. Just makes a loud crunching sound when i turn it on. I am guessing it's coming from the compressor. The roof top air conditioners are original to the coach, given its age i am not interested in wasting time troubleshooting the bad unit. I plan on moving the working AC from the front to the back and putting a heat pump up front. Are there any trick to figuring out what to replace the faulty unit with. The current AC units are Duo-therm 13,500 BTU ducted air conditioners. I plan on bumping up to 15K BTU heat pump. Am i confined to putting in duo-therm units or does it not matter? I plan on replacing the thermostat as well. The thermostat needs to operate the aquahot system as well. Any helpful ideas / guidance will be gratefully appreciated. Thanks, Rick

Hello everyone. My coach is a 1995 beaver marquis. The rear AC stopped working for some reason. Just makes a loud crunching sound when i turn it on. I am guessing it's coming from the compressor. The roof top air conditioners are original to the coach, given its age i am not interested in wasting time troubleshooting the bad unit. I plan on moving the working AC from the front to the back and putting a heat pump up front. Are there any trick to figuring out what to replace the faulty unit with. The current AC units are Duo-therm 13,500 BTU ducted air conditioners. I plan on bumping up to 15K BTU heat pump. Am i confined to putting in duo-therm units or does it not matter? I plan on replacing the thermostat as well. The thermostat needs to operate the aquahot system as well. Any helpful ideas / guidance will be gratefully appreciated. Thanks, Rick

Ok let me put this to rest. Just to be 100% clear I turned off shore power to the coach. I then checked for 110V at the only outlet in the refrigerator alcove, no voltage present at the outlet. Which of course means it is not serviced by the existing inverter (20D). I will concede that it makes sense for there to be at least on receptacle fed by the inverter for the ice maker, however reality disagrees! The refrigerator is in place and working wonderfully off shore power. I have inserted a Kill a watt meter to get a better idea of the peak wattage so i make an informed decision as to what size pure sine inverter to purchase. Probably going with an Aims 1200 watt inverter. Aims claims it was designed specifically for residential refrigerators in an RV. Price is right and installation is a snap. Thanks for everyone's input and suggestions, have a great day to all! Rick

I guess another area of concern is regarding batteries. I currently have 6 each Interstate Batteries GC2-XHD-UTL 6v Golf Car Battery, Capacity: 232Ah (20HR) each. Does anyone have input regarding the batteries and will they have enough capacity to run 2 inverters. Probably depends primarily on what i use while unplugged from shore power! Your thoughts and opinions are appreciated. Thanks Rick

Hello all. Let me see, yes the old refrigerator had an ice maker, however it plugged into the same (non inverter supplied) 110 volt outlet as the refrigerator. Don't belong to the Beaver Club any longer... My beaver is actually on a Gillig chassis...awesome! Yes i did get my cooling issues resolved only to be replaced by new issues a year later. The control box for the hydraulic cooling fan seems to stick on low from time to time. Not sure if its the valve inside the box or the solenoid that controls the valve. For now i just unplugged the control and it defaults to high speed...that works for now until i get a chance to tear it apart. But i have digressed, back to the refrigerator. I didn't realize the 20D was a MS unit. That make me want a second pure sine wave inverter even more! The refrigerator i purchased, model HRF15N3AGS, uses about 330-360 watts of power (3 amps) just sitting there and about 3 times that amount to start the compressor this is per the manufacture rep. which is why i am looking at a 1500 or 2000 watt inverter. I have asked Haier if it will run on a modified sine wave inverter... waiting on the answer. Hi Kaypsmith, that is a good question and a valid concern of mine as well. The current battery cables are 2/0 gauge and are protected by a 250 amp fuse. Probable just best to run new wires from the batteries to the new inverter based on the distance and current requirements with a separate fuse and battery shut off switch. Thanks for your input.

Hi jleamont thanks for your response. I have already purchased the haier refrigerator. My only concern with using the existing inverter is its already wired into the coach electrical system. It runs two dedicated circuits and only has two AC outputs neither of which go anywhere near the refrigerator alcove. not really interested in piggy backing off the existing inverter output either for fear of overloading those circuits. which brings me to adding another inverter. Thanks for your input though! Rick

Hello Rich and thanks for your response. I am not sure what what MS is...modified sine wave? My heart 20D is as far as I know a pure sine wave inverter. At any rate not sure where the harmonics would come from. I am only pig tailing off the DC input to the original inverter to avoid having to run a longer DC cable to the battery from the new inverter. My idea is to purchase an Aims 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter. the new heart/xantrex inverters are insanely expensive. Although i am sure they are better quality than the Aims i am looking at I can't justify the difference...at least not until the aims stops working and my ice cream melts If i am not understanding your concerns please let me know. Thanks to all for your input. Have a nice day.

Greetings. My name Is Rick. I have removed the original dometic refrigerator from my 1995 Beaver Marquie and will be installing a Haier french door unit. As this unit only uses AC i will need to add a 1500 watt inverter to keep things cool while driving and boondocking. I currently have a Heart 20D inverter / charger that is working fine. I have 6 interstate deep cycle 6V batteries. I have two questions. 1. I am wondering if i can piggyback a second inverter off the connection on the back of the heart inverter to avoid having to run new battery cables all the way to the batteries. 2. The new / second inverter has a built in automatic transfer switch. My idea is to connect the output of a 15 amp breaker in the coach load center (from the original refrigerator outlet) to the input of the new inverter. Then run the output of the inverter to the original refrigerator outlet. I realize i could probably just replace the existing inverter with a larger unit but they are much more expensive that a smaller unit and i would like to avoid the expense if possible. Thanks for your advice in advance, Rick

Hello everyone, I need to know how to test a temperature sensor on my 1995 Beaver Marquis with a CAT 3176B SN 9CK15314. Back story: my cat overheats periodically and i have determined that the hydraulic cooling fan does not switch to HIGH when reaching/exceeding 215 degrees. I know the fan works on high because when i unplug the (two wire) electrical control line going to my hydraulic switching box it immediately goes into the spectacular roar of high mode. This leads me to believe the input signal to the solenoid is missing, enter the temperature sensor. I will include a pic of what and where i believe to be the temp sensor. I need to know what kind of resistance readings I should see from a functional sensor. From what I understand the sensor has two set temps 195 degrees and 215 degrees. there are three pins in the connector presumably one for 195 a second for 215 and one for ground or input voltage not sure. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Thanks John, found the exact indicator replacement on the web but located in either Japan or the UK Checked out your suggestion and found a reasonable alternative. Found them on amazon for slightly less. ordered enough to replace all of them on the panel so they match Thanks to everyone who responded, nice to know where i can go for assistance when needed, have a good day to all! Sincerely Rick

Good day to all. I have a 1995 Beaver Marquis. It has a control panel inside with switches for the generator, fresh water pump and the aqua hot system. Next to but separate from these switches is an indicator lights, the lights are the same size as the switches. I have one red and one amber light that are burned out. Tried a search on the internet for replacements but no luck thus far. case size is 7/16th of an inch wide by 1 in high by 5/8th on an inch deep. Anyone have any idea where i might find these? Thanks for the help Ricky Coon