joenan@gmail.com
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Posts posted by joenan@gmail.com
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SeaJay - you have the right touch to be a MODERATOR!!!!! Your info is presented in such a fashion that folks really want to read it 'cause it's funny.
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I believe Tom is 100% right. There is another consideration. Many of us have bought our 50 to 30 adapters from WallyMart. Knowing the quality of their products, I'd bet that if there was a current surge of 40 amps, that cheesy black adaptor would likely melt into a puddle of plastic before any damage was done to the coach.
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I'd think the first step would be to clearly define a Super C. It needs to have a minimum body length, and a minimum number of slides. If this definition is left fuzzy, most folks will be against it because they don't know what might be sitting next to them.
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Suggestion - toddle down to the local Home D'po and show the old one to the 19 yr old expert in Electrical or plumbing Impress upon this dude that you need a 120Volt heater to match. NOT A 220V! You should be out of there in 20 minutes with the right part. Just about every tank heater has the same threads, but compare them and the length anyway.
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Besides the genny, you might consider starting the engine when you first jump out of bed. When warmed, it'll heat up the front of the coach nicely while charging the batts at a rate somewhat faster than the genny. Every time I suggest this, some folks get into a tizzy because the engine uses more gas than the genny. I don't know about you, but my coach gets 7 to 7.5 mpg, and burning another pint of gas daily won't even dither that mpg figure. If we were so interested in fuel efficiency, we would be tenting. Do whatever makes you and the DW the most comfortable.
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Larry . . .I have no idea what that Charger/Inverter/Transfer is, but I AM curious. Googled 'Dimensions inc' and got nothing close. Could you send me a link to the appropriate site?
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It's very possible that the rain is rolling down the roof & down into the rig. Home D'Po will sell you a piece of drip edge, which can be installed inverted (flange facing up). Silicone it down, and when the rain comes rolling down, it'll be diverted around the A/C opening. I've done this on my stick house. We don't use gutters 'cause they fill up with pine needles once a month.
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Thanks for the info, Brett. Engine is a 460 Ford, 1995. Converter is a 9245 Progressive Dynamics, with the dongle. After reading your response, I'm believing perhaps a half hour charging off the alternator followed by a long charge off the converter might be the way to go. Any thoughts?
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Given this scenario -- Been dry camping, just woke up to find house batteries kinda low (12.3V) due to lots of furnace use through the cold night. We have two options -- turn on the genny and let the 45-amp converter pump up the batts, or turn on the engine and let the alternator do it. I think the engine solution is best, as the alternator can push out a lot more current than the converter, and simultaneously heat the coach, too. Anyone ever looked closely at this?
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Most folks know that the critical part of leveling the rig is to get the refrigerator level. If left running out of level, it can actually fail catastrophically, requiring replacement. My question is - has anyone ever talked to the refrigerator manufacturers and learned WHERE n the refrigerator to sit your level? I know many rigs have built-in levels, but if the frige was installed a few degrees askew, those levels are worth nothing. I have been unable to pry this info from Dometic - has anyone ever received a mfr's answer?????
Replacing Converter/Charger
in Electrical
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NW - I am a big fan of PDs, and that's because I believe they have the best technology for the price. I like the 'CHARGE WIZARD' they provide which allows you to change the charging method to suit your current needs. There are folks who will argue that other brands are just as good, but I don't agree. I believe PD is top of the line, particularly considering the price!