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PeteH

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Posts posted by PeteH

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the idea/info.

    If I pull the steering wheel lock, I assume nothing "bad" will happen on my 2011 Explorer? Is it hard to pull?

    AS far as the time is concerned, it was only 11 PM on the west coast where I am (playing in the rain- 2" and winds over 60 mph yesterday).

    Do you have any "feeling" (good or bad) on pulling the steering wheel lock??

    Any other ideas or suggestions on how to "kill" the mileage accumulation on the 2011 Explorer.

    I guess I don't understand why some 2011 Explorer owners don't accumulate mileage and other like myself do.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    OK guys, I am now confused on flat towing a 2011 Explorer and not accumulating mileage. I have a 2011 Explorer since June 2011 and have towed it over 4,000 miles PER THE MANUAL and have now added an additional 4,000 miles on the odometer (have over 8500 miles on the odometer now).

    I talked to Ford customer service this week and was told that YES, while you are towing it all wheels down, you will accumulate miles. Who did others talk to at Ford that says you will NOT accumulate miles and if you don't how are you setting up the car?? I need to get this issue resolved ASAP.

    Help

    Thanks

    Pete

    I can be reached @ 360 299 2328 at any time if you would prefer to talk by phone.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I just finished towing my 2011 Ford Explorer XLT from New Orleans up to Indy for the 500 race and back and would like to give you all a report since everyone has a concern.

    First, I am using a Blue Ox towbar which I have to say was relatively easy to install. I did it myself in right around four hours. My braking system is the low-end Brake Buddy because I rarely tow the vehicle.

    Anyway, I'm sure everyone has read the manual and I followed it explicitly. No mileage was accumulated.

    I DID have one major issue, however, the battery kept going dead. The key needs to be in the accessory position, per the manual, and in doing this, whenever I stopped, which was about every four hours, the battery would be dead. On most occasions I was able to jump-start the vehicle without a hitch however on one occasion it would not do a thing until I unplugged the battery positive (which has a quick-disconnect), waited about 30 seconds and plugged it back in.

    I am assuming that the key has to be put in place to allow the wheels to turn, however, I have to wonder if the vehicle, after that has been accomplished, really needs power? Aside from the brake buddy, there is nothing else that I am aware of that requires power and I could run the BB off the coach.

    Anyway, I have an email in to Ford asking them about all this and hope to have a call back shortly.

    Please keep me advised on Ford's answer since I have the same vehicle and don't want this type of problem.

    Thanks Pete

    pcharberlights@hotmail.com

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Pete, I think the running vehicle every 6 hours AND doing the 'neutral to drive, then reverse, then back to neutral' routine has to do with lubrication of the tranny--than with charging the battery. I can't answer the dead battery issue because due to the 'adaptive cruise' problem I haven't been able to tow. When I get the adaptive cruise problem solved if I DO have battery problems then I will wire in an after-market wiring system that will allow the tow vehicle (Explorer) battery to take advantage of the 7 pin setup up FROM the motorhome and keep it charged. These after-market wiring harness are made by several entities and are in heavy use by new Jeep owners. My opinion is that there will not be enough draw from simply having the accessory on to drain the battery in a normal day--but time will tell. The guy who said he is going to sue Ford and get a Jeep better check out the new Jeeps as they no longer have the 'worry free' towing ability that the earlier (like my 2001 Wrangler) jeeps had. A few years ago Jeep did away with the stop between Off and Accessory that allowed the wheel to turn without ANY power on. AND Jeep now tells you to 'pull' fuse(s)before towing.

    Thanks for the info. Please keep me advised on the possible "battery" problem and I will keep you in the loop also.

    Pete

    pcharberlights@hotmail.com

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I bought a new '11 Ford Explorer Limited so I could tow it flat. It is loaded with everything but a moon roof and back seat DVD player. I have always used Blue Ox and was happy when I found that Blue Ox had tow bar brackets for this new vehicle. I have adaptive cruise and Blue Ox has a DIFFERENT bracket set than for the 'regular' non-adaptive cruise '11 Explorers. Ordered the correct tow bar brackets and had it installed. I then tested out the vehicle with installed brackets by hooking up behind my motorhome and towing it for about 20 miles. It worked flawlessly. This unit does NOT have a key but instead is a 'push button'. There is a procedure to put the 'button' into 'accessory' which I did, then per the manual I put the tranny in Neutral. Off we went and it worked well. I had the proportional Brake Buddy in the vehicle while I did my 'testing' AND had my wife ride in the passenger seat to see how everything looked and sounded as we towed. Worked great.

    HOWEVER, later when I unhooked and drove the Explorer I started to throw 'error codes' on the adaptive cruise which effectively meant I no longer could use either normal OR adaptive cruise. I went to Ford to have them 'clear' the error. They could not do such and said the problem was caused by the 'after market' install of the Blue Ox. They said I'd have to take the tow bar brackets off before they could calibrate and adjust the adaptive cruise control radar unit. I went back to the installers and they couldn't find anything wrong with the install but took off the stuff they had installed. I then went back to Ford and they worked a few hours, got the error cleared, and charged me $250. I called Blue Ox, have talked with Ford, and have talked with my installers. Everyone kind of pointed to everyone else, BUT each of the three entities IS willing to work with me to find a 'cure'. At this point I'm going to drive the Explorer for a couple of weeks to be sure no error code is thrown with the brackets off--if it does then I think we have a Ford Problem. Then after a couple weeks I'll have the installer put the tow bar brackets back on and see if we still have a problem. If not, then I'll caulk it up to a quirk--if still have problems then I will deal with the installer and Blue Ox to take back the tow bar and reimburse me and will see what Roadmaster has.

    Since the Ford Explorer '11 is a new frame, new engine, new tranny I'm hoping Blue Ox sells a few more and we can see if we have a systematic problem or a quirk. Also, if you are considering buying a '11 Explorer to tow be aware that the 4 wheel drive vs the 2 wheel drive have different 'abilities'. I went with 4 wheel as it can be towed flat, but NOT on a tow dolly. The two wheel drive uses a tow dolly but can NOT be towed flat. Both of course can be towed via a trailer.

    All in all I really like the '11 Explorer Limited and want it to work with Blue Ox plates for towing. I went with this over several other brand vehicles as the Ford is the simplest and easiest to tow--no fuses to pull and the only restrictions are 65 mph limit, and run engine and go through a gear shift routine (from neutral to drive, to reverse, and back to neutral) every 6 hours or the beginning of each day. The the Limited is loaded with neat electronics BUT that comes with its own set of problems.

    If any of you with the 2011 Explorer AND YOU HAVE ADAPTIVE cruise, AND have installed either the Blue Ox or Roadmaster I'd be interested in hearing from you at hsteinle@hbsteinle.com or harlansteinle@garmin.com

    It sounds like you got the same Explorer as I did EXCEPT I found one WITHOUT adaptive cruise control so I don't think I will have the tow problem.

    Have you had any "dead" battery problems with your Explorer? If not, why not- what are you doing different then all the other 2011 Explorer people.

    The dead battery problem bothers me. Will I have to run the engine every 6 hrs or not? What about if I tow for 4 hrs, camp and then start towing again the next day WITHOUT starting the engine? Will I have problems??

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I have 2011 Ford Edge and have learned that if you have a Ford that is pretty well loaded, like mine, no key just a button and a lot of, the onboard computers, it will draw 3 amps while in the sleep mode, while being towed and the battery will go dead. I had 2 different Ford engineers work on my Edge and it can not be fixed. You can't disconnect the battery. Ford says that it is running as designed and it is, but they don't tell you the battery will go dead in the owners manual. As on 6-1-2011 they have made a change to the owners manual for the Edge and at least the Explore that you have to stop every 6 hours and run the motor for 5 minutes. If I had known this I would have not bought the Ford Edge. I AM GOING TO SUE FORD, and then buy another Jeep.

    I have a new, new 11 explorer. Roadmaster says you can not have adaptive cruise control and so I got the only one in the NW without adaptive cruise control. I haven't flat towed it yet but am concerned with the battery going dead. Since we will tow for 4 hrs, camp for a day and then tow again without unhooking the explorer, am I going to have a problem with the battery going dead?? If so, how do I "fix" it?/

  8. Posted · Report reply

    A couple of remarks:

    1. In WA. the patrol looks at the license plate of the towed vehicle vs the coaches plates. If they are from different states, they then run the "out of state" plates and come after you that way. WA. has a law that says if a vehicle, RV or boat is used in the state for more then 6 months, it must be registered in WA. I just got had on this law. It will cost me 8% of the RV's value in "sales tax" to register my coach now. In regard to the "value" WA. uses the list price of the vehicle for the first 4 years of its existence. On the RV, since it is now 10 years old, we are having "discussions" on its value but whatever they finally agree on, it will be an 8% charge.

    2. My coach was registered in Oregon since it doesn't have a sales tax. We put it under our OR. company's name, but since I had moved it to WA., to my WA. home in late 2008, they are going to get me now. WA is really strong on this since they have to deal with the OR. state deal all the time In fact, the WA. state patrol runs checks on all OR. licensed vehicles in the Vancouver WA. (just across the border from OR.) just to "catch" people that are WA. residents and buy cars sales tax free in OR. (saving themselves 8% of the price on the car).

    3. I suspect the other states with a sales tax are going to do the same thing to get the "tax revenues". Good luck on "beating" this.

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