dougpayne48@gmail.com

Thanks for your help. Will try that.

My Norcold N843 fridge won’t turn off. The RV had been in storage for five months. I tested the fridge before our latest trip. All was well. Fridge worked fine for 4 days. When I got home I hit the on/off button to turn it off and it had no effect. On light still lit. The mode button was also dead. Tried cutting the 12v coach main power cut off switch. It shut everything down as normal but fridge stayed on. Started the genset to see if it would detect AC. No switch to AC, on light still lit. Pulled the 12v fuse for fridge on the panel and it shut off finally. Shut off the gas and called it a day. Next morning put the fuse back in and the fridge on light lit again and showed the no fo code as I had turned the gas off overnight before I reinserted the fuse. Any ideas? Thanks. Doug P Holiday Rambler 2004 Workhorse P32 Chassis

Sorry, aztec7fan is right, i was thinking of the IRV2 forums. Had a brain far...... Thanks To Bill, the IRV2 Workhorse forum is the best source I have ever seen. You don't have to sort through volumes of irrelevant posts for other vehicles and chassis. The guys who post have vast knowledge of that particular chassis. To me is more concise and easier to get information. Thanks for your comment

It looks like the forums have changed. There used to be forums for particular RV's and chassis. I have a Workhorse Chassis under my Holiday Rambler and I am pretty sure there was a separate group for just Workhorse Chassis????????

Good point on the glass, it is one piece set in rubber. Hoping that the rubber gasket will protect it, but hope isn't a strategy!

Good idea on the string line. I can use that to determine how far out it is.

The entry door on my 2004 30' Holiday Rambler Admiral is sprung requiring it to be slammed hard from the inside or pushed hard from the outside at the latch assembly to close, engage the second level latch and lock. The top and bottom of the door strike the frame before the center does and there appears to be about a 1/4-3/8" gap in the center of the latch side edge between the door and the frame where the latch engages the door lock post. I have already adjusted the post out as far as possible which didn't help much. Sighting up the lock side edge of the door from below clearly shows the bow in the door. My thinking is to place a couple 2x4" blocks about six inches long between the door and the frame at the top and bottom of the door. Then connect a turnbuckle and chain between the door lock post and the closed latch assembly. I can then slowly shorten the turnbuckle to straighten the door. I considered just using the two blocks and pushing on the outside center of the door, but I am concerned about uneven pressure and going too far. Seems like the turnbuckle will allow a more gradual approach checking alignment after shortening the turnbuckle just a bit. Have any of you solved this problem, and how have you approached it? The coach is new to me and has always had the problem since I acquired it. Thanks,