WildBill95

Last September I bought a 2011 Tiffin Allegro RED. The odometer only had 15,000 miles so I thought what could be wrong here? On our first outing the Low Coolant light came on and I added coolant and wrote it off to a poor job of prepping by the dealer (La Mesa but that is another story). We went on a few local trips and I kept an eye on the the coolant level (and oil). The coolant level seemed to be stable though I may have added some more coolant if it was a little low. In December the check engine light came on, but would go off when the engine was restarted. This went on for a couple of week until I could get it in to Cummins South in Tampa, FL. They said the error was caused by high crankcase pressure and changed the crankcase filter, put it on a dynamometer, took it for a drive hit a curb and broke several dishes then gave it back to me saying everything was fixed. We took it on several longer trips over the next several months and put around a 1500 miles on it when the check engine light came on again. This time I had already purchased a Scan Gauge D and knew it was caused by high crankcase pressure. I took it to Kenworth in Lakeland, FL, a great shop if you aren't in a hurry. They determined it wasn't the EGR and a pressure test revealed a slight leak in the # 3 cylinder. The head has been removed and sent out to Cummins South (see above) because they have a Cummins certified shop. My concerns are what damage may have been done buy running with coolant in the oil. The oil always looked good when I checked it and there was never a sign of water that I could tell. Is there anyway to check for damage. I believe regular oil analysis is in my future but I don't know what the analysis means. Where can I get the analysis interpreted?

I noticed that when I run my chassis air (Damon w/Ford chassis) the passenger carpet gets wet. The condenser is draining so I don't think it is due to it being plugged, though it does drain for a while after I stop. I also noticed that there was condensation on the hose leading to the vent so I wrapped fiberglass insulation around that. Any idea of what could be the cause? I've about resigned myself to running the generator and house air in the summer.

I guess my batteries were charged. I was doing some work with the leveling jacks and low and behold, the yellow chatgeing light came on.

I have had the starting battery go dead while AC is plugged in several times so, after reviewing some motorhome forums, came up with the Ultrs Trik-l Start as a good solution for maintaining the starting battery while connected. Well, I received it toady and installed it on the Isolator (I believe) as described in the installation instructions. I checked the suspect Isolator and each side, starting battery and house battery, had a voltage that reflected the voltage of their respective batteries with the negative terminal removed. Now I have 13.3 V on each battery, as I expected, but none of the lights of the Trik-l Start are lit. Does anybody have a clue what could be happening here?

I had a blowout last week on a trip. Both wheels on the right rear let go at the same time. I don't know if I hit something or what, but there was a loud explosion and when I stopped both were flat. Actually, one was in three pieces, sidewalls and tread completely seperated. The second had no tread, the side walls were connected only by the steel strands. I have a TPMS and while I don't know the temperatures or pressures at the exact time of the blowout, there were no alarms. I have the High pressure alarm set at 105 PSI and the low pressure alarm at 75 PSI. Throughout the trip the tires had been running 90 - 95 PSI after warming up. We had stopped for fuel about 100 miles before the blowout and, as I always do, I walked around the RV looking at tires, checking the toad, and making sure bikes are still secure. I even ran the toad for 5 minutes to lubicate the transmission since we had been driving for about 5 hours and had another 4 to go. Ther tires were dated 2005 so while not new, were not at the end of their life yet. Tread was good.

This is interesting. I also have a Damon Challenger with the TST TPMS. Last week I was returning from a trip and the sensors were reading about 94 F with an outside temperature of 90. I guess the temperature readings are pretty much useless. I guess that also accounts for why the temperature increases when stopped, but not the pressure. I keep the pressure at 80 PSI cold, front and back, and when driving they increase to 90 - 95 PSI. Does this sound about normal?

Live in the area. The TT Reserve is nice and about 7 miles from Disney. As members, we stay there often when we just want to get away from the house for the weekend. There are also a couple of Encore Resorts that I hear are nice but have never stayed in. Lake Magic and the Palms are both nice. The dPalms is walking distance to Old Towne wich is nice if you like shopping. On Fridays annd Saturdays they have clssic car shows with aroung 400 cars.

Thanks. I'll take a look. There was condensation on the duct work under the dash but I don't think it was enough to account for the amount of water in the carpet. I plan to insulate that anyway as it should help cooling. I'll try cleaning the hose and case. One thing I saw that I don't understand was it looked as if there was a vacuum diaphragm attached just above the the drain line. There isn't any kind of vacuum activated valve there is there?

I have a 2006 Damon Challenger on a Ford Motorhome chassis. The coach is new to me as I purchased it in December of last year. We just got back from a longer trip and noticed that the carpet in front of the passenger chair is soaked after about 8 hours of driving with the air conditioner on high. I live in the Southeast, so it is very hot and humid. I noticed that the air conditioner duct under the dash is damp and dripping on the outside of the duct, but I don't believe that it can account for the amount of water on the floor. The air conditioner evaporator is on the firewall on the passenger side. I checked the drain and it seems to be open and drips freely when stopped with the air conditioner running. I spoke to someone who said it could be due to a clogged passenger compartment filter, but I can't find one in the Ford manual or the Damon manual. Does anyone have a clue as to what could be happening. The water is fresh with no odor.

I just recently purchased a MH with dual Carrier AC units. How do I determine if my units have a heat strip or not? In cold weather the gas furnace comes on. I would rather use the free electricity of the campsite than the propane I pay for. For now I use a space heater but it takes up floor space, I'd much prefer something in the air handling system, supplemented by the gas furnace. If it doesn't have the heat strips can I convert to them?

rream, I just bought a 2010 FIT and the manual states as you said but gives a pretty specific procedure before towing. My issue is I can't find a base plate for it. Blue Ox says they will have one after 3/3 but that doesn't have it now. From what I gather, the 2009 and 2010 are the same.