tjsolberg

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I looked at it and realized the gearbox was loose. So I gained access and tightened it with great expectations, but it wasn't the problem. Still goes out fine, but when I bring it in, it moves about an inch and starts ratcheting. I moved it about half way in manually and tried it from there and still does the same thing. Not sure how the gear box is built, one gear and the motor reverses when toggling the rocker switch? Anyway, any other suggestions or I think I'll buy a new motor/gearbox and install it and hope that's the problem......

Hi all, My 2006 Country Coach passenger side Slide Out goes out just fine, no problem, but when I go to retract it, it starts to come in, about an inch, then stops and makes a ratcheting noise. I have to unplug the motor and crank it in by hand. I then tried it again, no problem going out, but the same problem coming back in. So, is it a bad return gear or ? Thanks in advance for the help. R/ Tim

Bill, So far it's been running good with no problem. I switch it from GEN to SHORE and ran it in both configuration with no issues so far today. I'm getting ready to hit the road for a few weeks and will be able to give it a good test. I have a surge protector Bill, but I'll have to go look at what kind it is. I'll have to side with Joe on increasing the fuse size. Maybe a 7.5 amp as a temp fix until some more trouble shooting can be done if it continues to do it or until I can get a real refrigerator installed. LOL. Anyway, thanks for all the help. Now on to the next issue, passenger slide goes out just fine, but when I go to bring it in, it starts to come in and then stops, and starts making a noise like the gears not catching. Can it be a loose mechanism that's attached to the motor that when under load it catches fine going out but shifts to much in the other direction to catch properly? Just thinking out load. Thanks. R/ Tim

Bill, There are two fuses on the board, both 5 amp, one ATC and one AGC. The long AGC 5 amp looked good but when tested it wasn't. Replaced the fuse and op tested SAT!! Thanks for the info. I didn't know there were fuses on the control board. R/ Tim

Thanks Bill. I didn't know that. I'll look at in the morning and let you know what I find. R/ Tim

RayIN, I just bought this coach a couple of days ago. The guy told me that he had the same problem some months back and took it in and they changed a fuse for $200 and he said it worked fine after that. He thinks when he plugged it in to shore power he it blew the fuse again, but I checked the fuses I could find associated with it and they were good. Unless I missed one? Anyway, I'm checking everything out just to make sure. I just don't want to run it on LP gas all the time and I can't stand it when things don't work as designed. Anyway, I'm going to check the heating elements and anything else anyone suggest. I'm not an AC/R guy so I have to ask. Thanks for the response. R/ Tim

Bill, I ran the LP for approximately 8 hrs. So I guess that isn't long enough. I still need to fix the "No AC" indication. Could it be the heating elements?

Hey Guys, I have a question about this topic. I have a 1200L RIMD Norcold refrigerator with a similar problem. It works on LP, but not electric. When I turn it on electric, I get a fault code of "No AC". I checked the things mentioned in this thread with no luck, The outlet where the unit is plug in has power and I don't have a red light on the TMC (before I read this thread, I was just checking things out yesterday and thought I remembered seeing a solid red light on the TMC but after I went back out and powered things back up, it wasn't on. Not sure if it has to be on for a while before it comes on. I will check that again tomorrow when I let it run for a while.) Anyway, I was told it could be a fuse for the unit but I'm not sure where that would be. I checked the fuse by the breaker and it's good. Any other suggestions? Just to also mention, when I have it on LP, the freezer seems to get real cold like it should, but the refrigerator portion doesn't seem to get as cool as it should. Thanks in advance for he help. R/ Tim Solberg

OK folks, I have a confusing situation. I'm not sure how this is possible, but, I have a 2006 Newmar Essex DP and when I hook up to City Water, I get no water. How I understand the water system is, when I hook up to city water, turning the pump on is not required because the pressure from the source is all I should need and the valve diverts the water past the pump. See attached picture for reference. Now for some reason, when I hook up to city water and turn the valve to City Water (Auto Override), as pictured, I get no water. To get water, I have to turn the valve to the Auto Tank Fill / Auto City Supply position and use the pump to get water from the tank while the city water fills the tank. Then if I don't watch it, it overfills the water tank and comes out the tank overflow. Can someone help me out here please. If I understand it correctly, for one, when the tank fills, there should be a auto shutoff valve to stop it from over filling and two, when I have the valve on City Supply, it should bypass the tank/pump and go straight to the sinks/showers etc. I do use a pressure regulator and keep the pressure between 40-50 psi. all the filters are brand new and I have checked all the lines for kinks. Is there a directional solenoid operated valve somewhere that may be malfunctioning that I'm overlooking? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Also, another quick item, why does my pump cycle on/off when I'm not using any water? Faulty seal in the pump that is causing it to lose pressure? I don't have any leaks that I could find in the system. Thanks. again. R/ Tim 2006 Newmar Essex Water Source Selection Valve.pdf

Hey Joe, I checked out all the switches and connections and their all good. I also swapped over controllers and the problem stayed with the rear passenger slide. It just acts like the circuit isn't closing when I press the switch to power the motor. I'm going to try to find a schematic to see if there's a relay, solenoid, or ground that isn't right. Any suggestions would be great. I'll do an internet search for some schematics/drawings to see what I can trace out. If you have any ideas, let me know. Thanks for the help all. R/ Tim Solberg

Thanks. I'll give it a try and see what happens. I'll get back to you.

Jleamont, it does talk when you hold the button to extract/retract. Sometimes it works no problem, sometimes I have to activate the button 2 dozen times before it works. It's just the one slide, passenger side rear. It goes in/out just fine when it works. I was thinking along the same line as Herman, but the previous owner told me he had it checked out by an service center and they told him they couldn't find anything wrong. I find that hard to believe. I was thinking of swapping out the two controllers located in the mid bay just to eliminate that being the problem. Your thoughts? I posted pictures below.

I have a 2006 Newmar Essex 4502 and have an intermittent problem with passenger side rear slide. When I hit the switch, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't and I have to sit there and keep pressing the switch until I get it to go. Any suggestions? Thanks. Tim

Thanks Rich l, I'll check it.

Wildbill, We bought it in Denver, CO. It was stored indoors since new, 21k miles and really looks like it's brand new. And like I stated earlier, it ran great on the trip home. We are very happy with the purchase. You are correct, patience and you can find the good deals. RayIN, Sounds like your friends are enjoying it. That's awesome. Susan and I hope to be doing the same thing very soon.