HeatherRourke
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Posts posted by HeatherRourke
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2 hours ago, jleamont said:That is the correct dip stick for an F53.
Are you certain that the oil isn't so clean you just cannot see it? You could be seeing where its touching the tube. It might be best to let it sit overnight and pull the stick in the morning, that will give you the easiest reading and use the reading on the first pull. Make sure to rotate the stick over and see if the side without the writing reads, sometimes it can make it easier to actually see the level.
Your engine is a 6 quart system with the filter per Ford; Super Premium SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP
Later years went to 5W20 weight oil and 7 quarts.
I will try it again tomorrow. I know sometimes it’s difficult to see and you need to turn it in the correct angle to see the glisten, but after I cleans it from the initial pull because I had been driving it and turn it on the cloth is clean. I will try again in the morning now that I have it parked and take a look the first one I pull it out.
i thought this was something supposed to take 6 quarts of the 5-20. That is what I have been using since we got it. 😖That is what the auto parts store said to use when we first went to do it and gave them the info, then my LO said that is what he uses on his as well.
Have i done damage using the 20 instead of the 30?
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2 hours ago, Elkhartjim said:Is it possible the oil pan could have been changed at so point to a larger oil pan?
I have no idea. I purchased it used, but it came with a file of work that has been don’t on it. I went through all the documents nothing is regarding the oil pan anywhere. Doesn’t necessarily mean it was not done. I just have nothing confirming it was.
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3 hours ago, jleamont said:Can you photo the handle and the lower portion of the stick and attach them?
When there is nothing on the stick it doesn't mean there is no oil in the engine, it just means there is not enough to register on the stick.
How many quarts were put in the engine when the oil was changed?
On a large diesel engine there were many instances where the coach builder altered the dip stick on the engine and the readings were never verified. On a F53 its highly unlikely, or shall I say all of the coaches I worked on (more than I can count over a 20 year period) over the years it they were always straight from Ford as the F53 came with the dip stick in the perfect location.
When checking takin pics of the dip stick, I noticed there is a thin line of oil along the back side of one edge. Is that just where it slides along the inside of the tube? Or is that the actual oil level mark? Other than what is along the edge it is dry except for the tip still.
There were 6 quarts added with the oil change itself.
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Yes. LO is a Loved One.. He definitely should have mentioned it before to me when he noticed it.. One of the many reasons I dislike others doing things for me. I figured this was a simple enough task to let someone else do. I rather know and be educated and understand what’s going on so I can do, fix, or at least understand or expect certain things.
I would only put 5 quarts back in, not the 6? The filter holds that much?
Why do people change dipsticks? I’ve always had the same one for the life of my vehicles.
Is this something that I could do at a Walmart parking lot? Or a auto parts store parking lot without getting in trouble? All o which are about 2miles from where I am parked.
i can’t imagine that I went through the 6 quarts and 2 more I added getting from NH to CO without any indication that something is wrong to have it not sow on the dipstick. Which is why I think there is now too much oil in there.
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LO. Sorry for any confusion. LO = Loved One.
As for the gauge, it is as it normally is. Just shy of the middle.
I am not positive how to tell if it is the correct or original dip Stick. There was a file of documents of work that had been done, but nothing mentioned about anything with oil. Only “engine” area work was something about the heat and ac being fixed. I didn’t recognize the name of the parts, but was described on the receipt slip.
As for the oil type, yes. We are using the 5w -20. And changing it every 3-4K miles. I’m not positive about the oil filter used. I bring the old one into the auto part store, tell them what I drive and they give me a new onNe.
I think the dip dip stick is all the way in. The cap goes into the top fully. I just have to twist and bend it to get i all the way in, but I assume because it’s so long.
I am not positive what a restriction in the engine means.
I am parked where I am for the next week. But should I add more oil and see if it shows on the dipstick? I’m afraid there’s already too much oil in there.
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Hi Guys.I purchased a 34’ 1999 Allegro bay with a Ford v10 engine in it. My LO changed the oil and filter when we got it and as needed after without any issues... until now.
Prepping for my work trip from NH to Colorado he changed the oil and filter while I prepped everything else. Went to get going and heard a sputtering swishing sound.. looking around found the oil was spraying out from the oil filter. In the end turned out the gasket stayed on when he took the other filter off and he didn’t notice, so when he put the new filter on there was no people seal between the two gaskets.
Fixed that, added another quart of oil because that’s about what was lost before realizing the extra gasket was the cause.
Drove out to Colorado with no problem, purrs like a kitten still, no signs of any leaks or spotting under the motorhome when stopping, no smoke. Once I settled in here for work I went to check the oil, and the dipstick had oil on it when I pulled it out. I wiped it with a rag and finagled it back in and pulled it out again. No oil on the stick, didnthis several times and show nothing. I know sometimes the oil is difficult to see but front and back nothing. I wipe it with a cloth and nothing on the cloth.
I called LO. He said maybe we had lost more oil than he thought and suggested I add another quart. I added another quart. Waited still nothing showed.. just the tip Had oil still. He suggested another quart, did that and the same thing. I started the motorhome up and turned it off like when I get my cars oil changed and the dip stick was full of oil (like when I first took it out). Whipped it and tried it again (several more times) and still shows no oil...
I called my LO again and he says..”you know, now that I think of it whenever I’ve checked it it’s always showed empty” when he has done the oil change we always recycle the oil and it’s not low when we refill the bottles.
I’m thinking there is plenty of oil, but not showing on the dipstick. And my concern is that I added too much oil and might damage it. Is there any way to confirm the oil level? There’s no signs of leaks the engine sounds and feels perfect, no smoke. Nothing to indicate anything is wrong.
The only thing I can think is to buy tools and oil pan and drain the oil and re-fill it by the quart so I know exactly how much is there. But other than a few bucks on proper stuff, I’m no sure where I can do this. I’m far from home, and do not think I am supposed to do that in a parking lot.
Really don’t want to spend the money at a shop. They charge so much for an oil change on a motorhome when it takes minutes to do one. AnD I literally just had it done a few days ago.
Any one have experience with dipstick not showing an oil level?
Any suggestions on how to check the actual level of oil?
Any suggestions on where to do an oil change yourself when your far from home? Can you do it at an auto parts store?
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On 6/15/2019 at 1:36 PM, manholt said:Tag axle. All are 315/80/22.5 !
😲
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2 hours ago, manholt said:I just had 8 put on mine. BFG is by Michelin, cost less because your not paying for advertising, but just as good.
8! I thought 6 were allot.
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On 6/12/2019 at 5:40 PM, richard5933 said:Congratulations. Feels great to have a couple of success stories under your belt. I'm sure that the longer you own the rig you'll have many more projects in the success column like this.
What tires did you end up with?
Thanks. It feels great.
I ended up going with the BFG’s. There not top of the line, but they said they are still good and reliable tires and should last me years.
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Update!!
6 brand new tire, new sumo springs on the fronts and rears. Although when they went to put them on whatever the sway bar attaches to on the rear to the frame needed to be replaced as well. Drives so much better.
It was my first RV I have ever been in I didn’t know it was not supposed to rock or sway as much as it did. But now when a semi passes me on the highway the rig no longer sways.👍 and it doesn’t feel all over the road so that’s awesome.
As for the fridge, I pretty much maxed out my credit card on the tires and stuff so I bit the bullet and ordered a pores/circuit board online. They had one for an open package deal someone returned for $90. With free return if it doesn’t work so I took a chance on that one. Because I’m pretty much broke and am hoping for the best. Read up the wiring diagram for NorCold. Unhooked the. Old one hooked up the new one and so far *nock on wood... runs perfectly on the LP now. Yeay!!! I’m so excited. Saved some money and did it myself.😁
thank you everyone for all of your help input and inspiration!
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I tried making sure everything was clean and connected securely when I was installing the new pieces. I did not think to ask what the cost would be to test it. I will call them toMorrow and find out the cost. I would like to try and ensure it is the correct part before getting a new one. But probably not if checking it is going to cost the same as just getting a new one.
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The closest place I found is a camping world couple hours away. They said the could test it. They did say this is their busy time and are booking out to June. So it is going to be a little while before its Checked by them if I cannot find someone else to do it beforehand.
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I replaced both parts with the ones that came in today. The fridge is doing the same thing. I hooked the new parts up and it is continuing to click after it is lit until it shuts down and goes into the same error mode.
I turned it off and on 6 times trying it.
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Both the thermocouple and new burner and orifice should be in tomorrow evening. I’ll give and update once I install the new ones. Hoping it warms up again.. it’s snowing at the moment here.
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2 hours ago, wolfe10 said:The gas jet is the brass part from which the gas exits and goes into the burner tube. Follow the gas line from solenoid valve to find it.
Haven't looked, but there have to be some U-tubes of this. Hasn't changed in the decades I have been annually doing the burner area tune-up.
Again, before spending much time on that rusted burner tube (slits no longer clearly defined), just replace it. Andy RV parts house should have one in stock.
If the refrigerator performs properly on 120 VAC, it IS worth fixing the propane part of it. If the cooling unit is bad (doesn't work on either source of heat, don't waste your time/money.
The fridge works perfectly on regular power. I wish i could get it to work on regular power just when I am driving it. I Found the burner online. which I can have by wednesday. I was looking at the diagram to see where the gas jet is so i can get a better idea of what to look for to take apart and clean out.
this is the parts list i am looking at and the diagram for my model fridge.
https://www.thetford.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/PL_N64N84_623423_20160128.pdf is the gas jet in this diagram anywhere? Is that what they are calling the "Pressure tap"?
Also, I was trying to find the thermocouple on the diagram as well since I have no idea what that is either. But I cannot find it. Does that go under a different name or is it just not in the Norcold Partlist that I have? If the new burner and cleaning the gas jet does not work, i assume that would be the next thing to try?
If all else fails. I use the camper for work. I have a month to try to figure it out and fix it. If not I will do what i did last year. Just drive to my location and stop at the local grocery store before parking and hooking up. My first couple jobs are in NJ, and DE. so its not that bad of a drive between here and there. I definitely would like to have i functioning properly before i head out west again for work.
Thank you!
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39 minutes ago, RayIN said:Oddly enough, I turned on my Norcold 1200LRIM yesterday to make ice and insure there was no problems with either frig or ice-maker. I unplugged the MH from 120VAC last night to make sure the frig ran on LP OK. This morning I checked the frig and ice tray had water in it, and the eyebrow control board was flashing NOCO.
Well since I'm basically a lazy guy, I tried the KISS principle first. I unplugged/replaced all accessible wiring plugs in plain view. Went inside and started the frig on LP, SUCCESS. Then I turned the frig off and cleaned the LP burner,(BTW mine is brass) which made a brighter, fuller flame from the slots. Our MH has not been used since Oct. 2018, natural corrosion had insulated one or more low voltage terminal connections.
This is the stem type wire brush I used to clean the burner tube.
I found a new burner tube online for $30. So i am going to go and order a new one anyways. I figure it is already partly corroded. and if that is not what is causing the problem, it will most likely continue to corrode and cause future problems so i am going to replace it now. I am going to clean it again tomorrow with the wool and see if that works anyways. I have a regular wire cleaner brush, but it does not look as stiff as that one does. But I can try to use that too.
I will snoop around tomorrow as well and try to follow the wires and make sure everything is attached securely. I assumed it all was because it works when plugged in. Makes since LP uses different components and something might be off.
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16 hours ago, wolfe10 said:From your pictures, the burner tube is pretty badly rusted. They are not expensive.
Did you also clean the gas jet (just remove and soak in alcohol)? Doesn't take much to clog it up.
I am not sure what the gas jet is. Is that the burner tube? Soak it in rubbing alcohol?
I have some strep wool, so I’m going to try to clean those pieces again with the wool and blow them back out and see what happens. I don’t think it can hurt.
Im getting the whole new set of tires and springs in a couple weeks so money is going to be tight. I hope a thermocoupler is not super expensive if this doesn’t work.
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1 hour ago, richard5933 said:Here's a longer description of what others have already mentioned - there is need for some cleaning in there.
I will try some steel wool on the igniter and burner an see if that works.
The blog lists many things it could be if it is not the burner.
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On 4/27/2019 at 8:14 AM, wolfe10 said:While a shop vac MAY remove enough rust to get the unit going again, it is very little more work to remove the burner (one screw) and verify that it is clean and that the slots are not eroded.
I found a few videos and took the pieces apart and cleaned everything out with a vacuumed and blew it out with a can of compressed air like they used on the videos. I banged on the chimney after removinnthe other part and a little black soot/ flakes stuff came out. Some also came out of the burner piece. I reassembled everything on turned everything back on and tried to see if it fixed it. It continues to do the same thing. It makes the clicking sound and ignited instantly, but the clicking sound continues then it all stops and the fridge goes into the error.
is that little stick thing too close? I read somewhere online it should be a. Certain distance from the burner.
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On 4/27/2019 at 8:09 AM, F433921 said:Most likely you will find rusty deposits on the burner and igniter, just us shop vacuum to clean area and you will be good to go. You should also clean the entire chimney stack, you have to go on roof and remove vent cover above the refrigerator, you will see a cleaning rod in the center of the stack, you pull the rod up and down several times and is cleans the inside of the tube.
Jim
This was. What is above the fridge when I climbed on top. I took the cover off and there is some screen type thing that will not come off. There are no screwes or anything that I could find. There is tha stack beside it, but I do not see a way for that to come off either. If I look down the screen park I can see where the openeing is for the fridge that I was working on.
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31 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:Very likely the burner area tune-up will fix it. May just be rust in the burner tube. May just be carbon on the ignitor/thermal sensor, etc.
I can’t wait to try it. It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow as well but Sunday should be good. I hope that fixes it. I would be much more Convenient to be able to drive cross country with my fridge in use.
I am going to look for more videos on the cleaning. The ones I found were on different fridges than the one I have.
These forums are quite wonderful!
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1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:That will do it but, I was thinking the on/off switch on the fridge. When you turn it on, to try to get it to run on propane that it is not on auto but on propane.
What I may not have been clear on is you don't need the batteries to be fully charged if you have shore power. The converter will produce all the 12V power you need to run the circuit board/controls. Try making shure propane is selected and see if you can hear the igniter and or the valve open.
Bill
It has been pouring all day here so I have not been able to do the burner clean.
i did hang out and try to mess with the fridge though to see and hear exactly what was going on.
I turned it to LP instead of auto and turned it on and off several times when standing in front of the fridge and went out in the rain a couple times to see what I could see and hear from the panel outside.
Everything from the propane is open (unless something on the inside is stuck, all the valves are on open) and the stove lit up no problem.
When i would turn it on it makes the clicking sound, then I hear the flame going. Then it shuts off and gives me the “no fl” error code.
When I was outside I was able to see the flame going inside the little box. It continued to click like it was still trying to ignite even though it was lit until it goes into the error.
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1 hour ago, kaypsmith said:If the flue (chimney) is restricted it will not light, as Brett indicated, go through the flue cleaning process, something as simple as a mud dauber best or bird nest can really mess up the thought process for making the fridge work on LP. Sorry for the change in subject, but other mentions here made me do it.
No problem. 😆 The tires springs and fridge are the only things i want to take care of before spending my money doing cosmetic updates.
*future thread.. what to do with the hole in the dash one I remove the old tv.
I found YouTube videos. On how to clean everything out. I’m going to give that a try and make sure all the valves are open.
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1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:Didn't make it through Stark last summer but was in the area. Drove across just south of you on 2 to Newry and spent a week exploring the area. Nice area.
So it worked on 110 when plugged in? Ok this is going to sound silly, do you have propane? Can you light the stove? Sometimes it takes a while to get the air out of the line going to the refrigerator. The burner will try to light but if it doesn't will shut off after a set number of tries. You have to turn the main switch off and try again. Look and see if there is a valve on the propane line just before the fridge. It could have been turned off for some reason. You should be able to hear the spark igniter trying to light if you go outside by the fridge. People with good hearing say they can hear the gas valve opening. That is something else that might be stuck from setting for a long time. You could try taping it with a screwdriver handle if you can't hear it open/smell propane.
If you are plugged in to shore power even if it is 15 amp you should have enough 12V power to power the refrigerator.
Bill
I love it up here. It’s beautiful and everyone is so nice and friendly. Yes rt 2 is pretty much how I have to get to most stores and surrounding towns.
As for propane, yes. Lol I’ve had to fill it several times. The stove works with no problem. And I was told the heat uses the propane in the winter and that works as well. I have not have no hooked up an outside grill to that gas line so o don’t know about that one.
I found some YouTube videos on doing the burner cleaning for the fridge online. I am going to try that when it stops raining. I’m not sure what the knobs and valves do. I’ve tried opening and closing them last summer. I don’t recall hearing the sound of propane running through like wen I turn the tank on or off. I’m going to look up the plans or schematics for the fridge from the site RayIN suggested and see if I can get a better idea of what is what.
What is the main switch? The circuit beaker?
The fridge runs only when the generator runs or if the camper is plugged in. Even if the 50amp is downgraded to standard electric cord to my house.
I’m hoping a cleaning and turning on a valve will do the trick.
Dip stick shows no oil
in Engines
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I pulled the dip stick again this morning without whipping it first the initial look is like the picture. A small streak of oil along the edge.but the from back and other side are dry. The small street on the side goes about 2” above the full oil mark.. which if that is the actual oil reading would make since since I added the two quarts?
Sorry for the clarity of the pic, with the sun it was hard to get proper focus on it. But that’s how it looked when I pulled it this morning.