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jon48

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  1. Thanks for this tip. I've already lost one lug nut cap somewhere along the line. I guess losing covers is more common than I thought. There is a lot of new stuff to learn.
  2. jon48

    air tank purge

    The engine is an ISB 6.7 360HP. jleamont: thanks for great info, especially on the straight pull of valve. My interest in these cables is that I am required to have a non-commercial class B drivers license and part of the test will be pulling these cables. It's good to know that the sideways pull may cause a reseating issue.
  3. Yes, confirming that my wrench fits perfectly on the rear dually hub. I've been puzzling over this one for many months. As I turn it there is a click as each flat passes by and the cover is noticeably looser. Because it clicks I don't know if I must keep turning it or if the click indicates it's as far as needs to turn. Or is the click an indication of tightness where I should tighten or loosen 'x' number of clicks? I don't want to mess with it until I know how it is supposed to work.
  4. Top hats. OK. Just looked and never noticed before that the center part is a hex. That is probably exactly what it is. THANKS.
  5. There is no part number, if there was I would have searched using that. Maybe it is related to the rear axle dually. That is a rather large hub cover and I have never tried to figure out how it is removed.
  6. The ID is 2-7/8" across, flat to flat.
  7. The chrome cap prys off. It is flush mounted with spring clips. I'll have to pull that cap off an look again. There is an oil filled hub underneath that cap but maybe there is more to it than I remember from my last look. thanks.
  8. In the pile of manuals I got with my DP Motorhome I got a collar wrench that is imprinted with Freightliner Logo and says turn one way for driver side and other way for pax side. I asked at the Freightliner dealer and they could not tell me what it was for. Any ideas?
  9. jon48

    air tank purge

    Thanks all for the comments. I'm sorry I forgot to mention I have a dryer. It's maintenance interval is 36 mo. My tanks have pulls in the wheel well so I don't have to crawl under to do the purge. I crawled underneath to try to determine what was what, couldn't figure it out so posted this query. I just found a freightliner doc that shows a picture of the tanks set up as a demo floor model (not installed on a chassis). It shows the wet tank with a "heated automatic moisture ejector". I guess that is my 3rd pull wire. I have to double check this. I find it odd that I'm supposed to determine if water/oil blows out on manual purge but I really can't operate a pull wire and look underneath at the same time. I have located the dryer, aft of the rear axle, and just out of curiosity tried to follow the line to see where the air compressor is located but I cannot find it. I presume it is directly attached to the engine (Cummings) but I'm uncertain of that statement. The aforementioned doc shows the compressor in the rear attached to the pax side rail but all I find there is the exhaust ATD for pollution control.
  10. jon48

    air tank purge

    My Tiffin RED on a Freightliner chassis has a dryer and auto-purge. But the tanks have manual pulls. Questions: 1) why are there 2 pulls on my pax side tank and only 1 on driver side? What does that 2nd pull do that the other tank doesn't have a second pull? I crawled underneath to try to figure it out but all I could determine is the location of the valve, not why it is there. I do know that I need to exercise it ev. 6 mo's and it is an early warning sign for failure of the dryer. 2) The manuals do not refer to a wet tank but I see references online, including this forum. I presume the pax side on my rig is a wet tank because it has 2 pulls. But what does that really mean? 3) Freightliner manual refers to tanks as primary and secondary in regards to braking. But Tiffin refers to Front air ride and Rear air ride. Comments? I'm asking all these questions so that I can be informed about how things work.
  11. jon48

    spray insulation?

    Just to wrap up this thread, and for anyone in the future with same question, I spoke to Tiffin and they indicated that there was not a specific type or specification of foam used in the wiring tray under the bed and that I could use any sort of spray foam. Thinking later about the phone call he left me with the impression (but did not say) that there is no need to put anything back in that space. I will certainly spray some foam into the area where the wires pass from the engine area into the tray to prevent any fumes or insects and rodents from entering that wiring tray (it's not really a tray, it's a compartment under the floor that contains wires and plumbing).
  12. jon48

    spray insulation?

    After researching the consumer spray foam products I think this is a worthwhile approach.
  13. jon48

    spray insulation?

    Thanks for the interesting info. I haven't read the link yet but it seems appropriate for what I am searching for. I did check the can of "Great Stuff" and it sez "combustible". It is made by Dow so I'll look for their MSDS sheet. The area I'm looking to apply this stuff is under the bed and just behind the rear axle. So not directly over the engine but fairly near by. Maybe I'll just put a little squirt into the passthrough from the underside of the carriage into the wireway to plug the hole rather than filling up the whole thing like it was before.
  14. jon48

    spray insulation?

    I would be surprised if they had a can of foam. This looks to me like it was applied from an industrial use rig, like a hose with air power. For all the foam on my rig I would estimate it would take cases of cans to do the job in a complete build. Unlikely that they use cans. I'm satisfied with the phone assistance I have had from Tiffin (so far) and so will just use the can I have laying around my basement to fill the space and stabilize the wiring that was disturbed when I dug out the damaged wiring.
  15. jon48

    spray insulation?

    Did that. Rather than fight the issue of feeding the wire up the track alongside the slide, where there is absolutely no room to work, I cut the harness and soldered the individual wires, using shrink tubing on each wire and then tubing over the whole mass, it's done and apparently working. I say apparently because I have not taken a spin with it yet and it always seemed to work a few times before failing after a taking the rig out.
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