deluco

Thank you, Wayne, for taking the time to offer this suggestion.

Yes, that's where I am, however, that's not where I camp. I did try getting stations when I got home last week and I only received a couple of stations (without upgrading the antenna) and they were not ABC, NBC, WHDH or any of the stations I am familiar with on the Air TV. They were digital stations and one was Spanish. But I park in a bit of a valley, so I'm not sure if that makes a difference. I agree...need to check all connections as part of the installation of the Wingman. Being familiar with over-the-air tv over the years, I would have thought that even simple rabbit ear antenna's would get more stations than I get. As an aside, cable works perfectly when I have the campground connections....I know that comes from a different source, but at least it does isolate the problem a bit. Thank's.

For now I purchased the Wingman. That was the least expensive and simplest option for now. If that doesn't work, I will probably purchase the Jack. thank's for the information.

There is a button on the panel that accepts the cable and it appears to be a power or booster of some sort. That has to be on in order to get any air signals, and it has to be off for cable. I do get some air channels most of the time but there are times when other RV's near me are getting air channels and I get none or very few. I don't have anything with a digital readout. The TV has the menu settings for Cable or Air built in, and you need to scan the first time you set up for either. The system is relatively intuitive but there could be a problem with a connection somewhere. Cable channels come in fine. I checked the antenna connections and couldn't find anything loose or corroded. In locations near home where I would expect good reception, there are channels that I can't get that I should get. I do get digital reception over the air.

Thank you Brett. I take it that you're happy with that antenna. I was also looking at the Winegard Wingman accessory for my Wingard antenna. My original is in good condition...just needs better reception.

Just an update: I ended up purchasing a Honda Shadow and the additional weight (560-ish lbs) required that I tow, so I purchased a Kendon Single Ride-up trailer. A bit pricey, but an extremely well-built and it tows really well. Additionally, I live in a condo and can't store a trailer outside, so I needed a trailer that folded up and could be stood up in the corner of my one-car garage and this one fit the requirements perfectly.

I have a 2010 Damon Daybreak 3211 and have been getting poor antenna reception from the original system. Has anyone successfully upgraded their air antenna reception?

Thank's Brett. There was a tech onsite and he said the receptacle read fine with his meter and all systems worked fine in the RV. I go to this campground a lot, so next time I'll pay attention to the plugs and follow up. Thank's again.

My 50 amp plug has two blue led's on the top. Both usually light up when plugged into 50 amp shore power. Sunday I plugged in and only one of the led's lit up...the one on the left top. The one on the right lit very briefly as I plugged it in, then it went out. All systems worked fine, even running both a/c units at the same time...and the TV and entertainment system. The last time I noticed that the right-side led was out, it was as a result of a shore power problem at a Florida camp site, after a power outage. After the power outage when the power came back on, the wall plugs in my RV stopped working. They moved me to a new site and that solved the problem and both led's were lit. This time no such problem...just the right LED not lit. A friend speculated that it's just a grounding problem at the site, since all systems worked. Any thoughts on this? Should I be concerned? Thanks.

I'm considering a new TPMS system called Tire Safeguard. http://www.tiresafeguard.com/ I've seen it advertised in the FMCA magazine and while it has many of the features I'm looking for, my concern is that it's about $200 less than most of the other brands out there. The transmitters have replaceable batteries and flow-thru sensors to allow you to check and adjust air pressure without removing the transmitter. Does anyone have any experience with Tire Safeguard? Any other recommended TMPS's?

Thank you !!! Yes, I did call Thor (coach mfg) and they don't recommend a "Lift" carrier without first contacting the frame mfg (Ford). They say the tongue weight max for the hitch is 500 lbs. Based on this and the above, I will probably keep my light weight carrier and put the small cycle on it with a winch when I'm alone. That will be a total of about 400 lbs on the hitch. I'll still double-check with Ford. There are also several members of my RV club who carry motorcycles and I am awaiting some return communications from them. Thank you all for your help. Not as simple as I thought...

Can anyone recommend a brand of carrier? One that has a power lift? What brand do you use and do you like it? I'm only going to be carrying one cycle, about 330 pounds. I WAS carrying a scooter on a carrier that loads with a ramp.

I'm already carrying a scooter at 250 lbs on a ramp carrier that probably weighs under 50lbs. One thing I don't want to do is tow. I'd rather carry. I have a gas engine if that makes a difference. It's a 33' Damon Daybreak Class A motorhome with a pre-installed 2" hitch. I was hoping to add as little weight as possible, but I understand that any carrier with a lift on it will probably be a significant additional load.

Thank you for your response. I have a 33' class A motorhome and I am going to be carrying a small motorcycle...right now I'm considering one that is about 330 lbs. I won't be towing behind the carrier. I do have a carrier that will handle it but have to get the cycle up a ramp and I am not comfortable trying to run it or push it up a ramp. I've already done that with a scooter and because I'm short, even that was a contortion. I MAY consider getting a small winch with a remote control and pull it up the ramp with a winch.

Looking for recommendations for a motorcycle carrier, with powered lift. What does everyone use and recommend? Thank you.

I purchased a RhinoFlex system when I purchased my (first) class A motorhome last March. So far, after one season I'm quite pleased with it. The latest issue of Family Motor Coaching had part 2 of an article on Waste Management, in which they mentioned the Polychute system. I checked it out online at polychute.com and while it does appear to have some excellent features, the $149 price tag was almost five times what you'd pay for the RhinoFlex system. My question to you all is what are your experiences with hose kits and what would you recommend?

I gotta say that I am soooo happy to have a dump station available on the road...$5.00 is a small price to pay. Dump stations are rare on the road, we all know this. Even in my home town, I'd have to pay $10 to dump at the town water treatment plant. We should be THANKING Pilot/Flying J for keeping the dumps open. My fear when I heard that Pilot was taking over, was that they would close the dumps because of the cost of running them. After all, RV's are NOT their primary customer...truckers are. I can only hope that they open dumps at the Pilot stations. We should be writing to THANK them for keeping the dumps open and asking them to install dumps at the Pilots. Ask yourself what you'd do if they closed the dumps at the Flying J's? I do a fair number of rally's and dry camping where there are no dump stations.

I ended up purchasing the Hopkins TPMS that comes with six senders. I ended up returning it after two senders were defective right out of the box. I moved them to different tires to confirm that the problem was the senders. I'll probably purchase a Pressure Pro system....or none. The total for a new Pressure Pro with six senders is about $475.

I have a 2010 Damon and the chrome covers are held on by three (not two) lugs. The lugs on one of the front wheels were also "frozen". I had to use a locking wrench and a hammer to budge them. I couldn't find a lug wrench to fit the larger cover lugs. A standard lug wrench does not fit them. After they were removed, I sprayed them with WD40 before re-installing them.

Being new to RVing, one of my concerns has been maintenance of the tires and in particular, how to monitor the tire pressure. I purchased a tire pressure monitoring system then quickly realized that access to the valves on the rear four wheels was obstructed...that the outside rear tire stems pointed inward, and the inside rear tire stems could not be reached. I investigated valve stem extensions. I'm receiving alot of free advice, from don't install them to only use straight extensions on the inside wheels. Even tire stores are reluctant to install extensions it seems. What can you tell me about what to do about this? I feel that especially with the rear tires, I have to insure that I monitor the pressure, as I could easily have a leak or flat in a rear inside tire and probably not even notice it 'til the outside tire blew.

Thank you

I purchased a new Class A coach and am being told different things about how/if to charge while stored. I am curious if I should use a "smart" trickle charger or if I have the option, would it be better to leave plugged in to shore power while stored? I have a 50amp cord coming from the coach, 50-30 amp adapter and also a 30-15 amp adapter. What's the best way to keep the coach batteries fresh while being stored? Thank's

thank's Brett. Yes they are in parallel. I am running on 12 volts. i appreciate the heads-up on the chargers.

I have two 12-volt house batteries in series. Do I hook up the trickle charger to both batteries, ie...the negative on one battery and the positive on the other? Or do I have to charge each of these batteries separately?

After thinking about it and talking to others, I believe that this is a safety feature...that the stairs must remain out while the doors are open, regardless of the setting on the battery disconnect. Think about it. You're inside the MH and turn off the battery disconnect. Then you open the door to leave. The stairs MUST extend for safety reasons. Unfortunately I could find nothing in the manual about this. I guess they expect that you will leave the stairs extended during storage. I just reach in thru the screen door and turn the stairs on, and the battery on, let the stairs retract, then turn the battery off.