larrydyork

We have a 2013 Winnebago Journey. The bedroom slides and passenger front slide are Schwintek. Bedroom slides have been fine. However, the front (large) slide has an issue, being repaired as I write this. When the slide is retracting, the trim is pushed away from the side of the coach. The force snaps the heads off of the retraining screws, beginning at the bottom. Dealer solution: Install larger screws at a closer spacing. I don't know this will be a permanent fix, as it is the second time I've had the same problem. Winnebago hasn't offerd any real help, other than a goodwill participation on the latest repair. Although we love the coach, floorplan, Maxxum chassis, et al, I fear we will be shopping for a new coach in the near future. We're looking at a Tiffin Phaeton. Anyone have any thoughts on that coach?

Wolfe, thanks for the tip. I'll check that out. desertdeals, I'm glad you have docking lights, but that doesn't address my back-up light question.

The back-up lights on my 2013 Winnebago Journey 40L are virtually useless - not bright enough. Does anyone have suggestions on making the lights brighter? Anyone have experience with LED replacements?

Thanks to all for your excellent comments. I found a wonderful gadget at Home Depot, a small (cup and a half) "bowl" with fittings for water hoses. I think this was supposed to be a small in-line filter. Connect the hoses to the gizmo and to the fill port on the coach, full the bowl with Clorox (next time, I'll look into hydrogen peroxide), and flush through both the hose and all the pipes. Simple, elegant solution.

I'm currently in an RV park in west Texas. The park is on well water, and the state has advised the park that their water can only be used for washing, not for drinking or cooking. Not having known this until check-in, I parked with a partially full fresh water tank. We've been using bottled water for drinking and cooking, and the park water for washing, and bathing. When I return home to clean water, does anyone have a suggestion of how to purge the contaminants from my water lines (not the tank, it has clean, "good" water)? Should I just run water through them? I don't know of a way to put bleach into either the fresh water tank or lines, as both fill from the shore-water fill-point. The coach is a 2013 Winnibago Journey.

I have an Itasca Suncruiser powered by WorkHorse. After four years of all season operation, I have just over 1000 hours on the generator. We always run the generator with basement air to keep the entire coach cool while driving in the summer. We also run the dash air to push a little more cool air in the cockpit area. I really can't detect any increase in fuel consumption running the dash air. I cannot detect any increase in engine temperature while we're moving. However, when we are stopped and there's no airflow over the condenser, I see a significant temperature rise in the dash air, and have to assume there is also an increase in engine temperature In the winter, we use the coach heater, which heats the entire coach and basement, so there's really no need to run the heatpump. From summer to winter, I really don't see a significant difference in fuel consumption. I agree with others' comments; The coach is my hiway home, and my comfort is important.

Thanks Brett. I come from the wonderful world of aviation, where the placard serves as an operating limitation, so its kinda scary to wander away from it. I'll try your suggestion - maybe the ride will be smoother. Thanks again.

My 2008 Itasca Suncruiser 35L door placard calls for 100 PSI for the front axle tires, and 90 PSI on the rear. I have meticulously maintained the tires at those pressures for 39,000 plus miles. I had the coach weighed for the axles, as 4-point scales were not available. The front axle is 7100 pounds and rear is 13560 pounds, both below the GAWR. Michelin's Tire Pressure chart for my tires calls for 75 PSI front and 80 PSI rear. Should I go by Winnebago's placard (which appears to have the tires grossly over-inflated) or by Michelin's chart (and adding a little for axle inequity)? I've read so much in FMCA about not having the tires underinflated that I am concerned about deflating to the Michelin chart values. Any thoughts are appreciated.