johnfv2
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Posts posted by johnfv2
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O.K. I just had my 38 ft coach done. I bought the carpet and padding and had an experienced RV carpet installer install it.
$400.00 and 2 days later it was done. The catch is he only works in the winter down in the valley ( Mission and such ) in Texas.
Excellent work for an old retired guy.
Good luck,
John
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The instruction were written by the French, not Americans. First they are telling you to put the brake on.
No need, if your car is hooked up to your tow-bar as it won't roll. As far as the towing bit they are referring
to a tow truck situation- 30 mph etc.
All you have to do when you have the car hooked up to the tow bar is just
1. Put the car into neutral.
2. Turn the ignition key to the farthest left position, leaving the key in the ignition.
3. Forget everything else anyone else tells you to do.
I also use a bungee cord from the bottom of the steering wheel to the front lower seat frame. Not tight &
not too loose. This helps getting the steering wheel ,and tires back to center when you're making tight turns.
Now after you're all ready with everything else you need to do with your camper, is drive off on your trip at
any speed you desire. I pass up semi's on the highway and my smart hasn't exploded in the last 3 years
of towing it.
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We purchased a Smart car to tow behind our motorhome. Were told it was towable. We find out that it is towable but only at 30 MPH for max of 30 miles. We are going to have to trailer it. Any suggestions for Smart car tow-ers?
First off, YOU LEAVE the ignition key in! If you want your doors locked use your spare key.
On the other subject you can tow the car at any speed. I don't know where you guys are getting your information.
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Stop over, I'm in Sleepy Valley Resort off Abram Rd. Mission. 659 Pear St.
608.475.9099. and I'll show you what to buy and how to do it. -
I used to use Velcro on my magnet until I found the real problem. The fuse was blown underneath the steps. There is a 5amp enclosed fuse container there.
Changed the fuse, now the steps work like a charm.
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This is what I use. You can find them cheaper on eBay. Also there is an adjustable one out there. That would of been my choice if I didn't already have this one.
I also tow a Jeep Liberty, and have towed a Chev. Colorado pickup without having to change the tow-bar setup. Works perfect and gives you about an extra foot for the car to turn around tight corners. Photo's of my setup with parts stored when not in use, this is a 6" drop.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/6-high-low-drop-hitch/21578
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I flat towed a 2008 Cabriolet for two years, with no problems. Then I decided to change cars, went for a Mini Cooper, bad mistake. Went back to a 2012 Cabriolet. What I need to know is, will the Blue Ox BX8848 wiring kit work on the car without causing any problems? I ask this because I do all of my own work to set the car up for towing, and I would rather not have to take the rear off in order to do the tail lights.
I tow a 2012 read "mule mans" answer and my comment and you're good to go. I put in a wiring harness and diodes for my Roadmaster ( Don't know anything about Blue Ox which I assume is basically the same.) system. You get to the taillights from the back compartment. It's easy to run the wiring harness, but you need to take the front end and side bottom fairing off to run it if you're going to mount it permanently. Which happened to be quite easy. Good luck. Look at attached photo, Wiring adapter in the top grill, and tow bar adapters with covers, in the lower grill.
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We purchased a new 2009 Smart car just for towing " flat four". Owners manual says "Yes"! We have towed this over15000 miles with no problems. No warming up trans. etc. Put the trans in neutral, leave key in ignition accessory position, disconnect battery and you're "Good to go"! One tip: attach a bungy cord from steering wheel to under front seat! This will eliminate a nasty steering wheel back lash on slow tight turns. The car is so lite I dont bother with a brake control. Another tip" When re-connecting the battery, hold down on brake pedal before turning key to on position! The transmission has to re learn the codes. It takes about 10 seconds. When the "P" park symbol shows on the dash the car will start and you are finished. Hope this helps! I had to learn the hard way!
You don't need to disconnect the battery.
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Get on eBay look for all the different setups there. I use all the Roadmaster stuff I can get my hands on. Their rockshield works great on their towing system. I then have a windshield cover ( off of eBay also) that I have used on three vechicles. No dings in the front or cracked windshields from towing. I also have a full guard under the rear of my coach, not one of those brushy types. If you are going to install a full guard make sure you use a beefy L channel from a hardware store if the kit comes with something you can bend by putting it across your knee and putting pressure on the ends.
You attach the eyebolts to the frame of your rig not the bumper, and that if you use the Roadmaster setup on your Jeep you don't see the towing system as it is hidden from sight.
Safe Travels,
John
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I've always do the hookup work myself. No big deal as long as you have some tools. I to have just bought a new SC. I've a Roadmaster hookup set coming. Opps here it is.
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Roadmaster 52285-1 EZ Tow Bar Base Plate Bracket Smart Car
And that's even my car. Man that worked out slick! If you want to look at how involved it is to install. Go to http://www.roadmaste...ons/52285-1.pdf and that will get you the info. I only use Roadmaster products and have been extremely happy with all of their products.
Safe Travels,
John
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EXCELLLLLLLLLLLLLLENT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Never had so much fun with a car!
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From your response on the Smart Car flat tow, it seems you are not disconnecting your battery, and that you have no problems with you SC being towed with the battery connected. Is that correct? If so how many miles have you towed your SC that way. Also what model and year is your SC? I've just picked up a new 2011 Caborlet and am getting ready to get it set up for 4 down towing. Any advise you can give me will be helpful.
Safe Travels,
John
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When they get the unit to accept Bluetooth so I can use my cell hands free I may look at it.
I had purchased the 5000 series unit prior to this new one coming out and sent it back as it
didn't have Bluetooth nor could u ad your own way-points. Now they have fixed the way-point
problem with the new unit but haven't addressed the Bluetooth problem. Also they have too
much junk it the units that you can't get rid of. I've been Motor Homing for quite a few years
and I don't really need any of their checklists and such. I'd like to get rid of their POIs as I'd
never use them. Guess I'll stay with my Garmin as the only thing I'd like is a bigger screen.
Their unit does have some items in it that I like such as setting up the unit for my particular rig.
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For everyone's info I just fueled up at the FlyingJ in Black River Falls, WI at the truck pumps. The truck house is under renovation, and you have to go to the
main building, and I hope it isn't raining like it was for me. I gave the gal my J card and I had to do a pre-pay. I hate that! After I finished fueling I went in for
a receipt and low and behold I was charged the cc price @ $3.99 OUCH! The manager said nothing cando. Get ahold of corp. and they'll credit you. For
$3.00+ I don't think I'll go that route. Anyways it might of been different if I had used the car pump side but I wasn't sure if they had diesel on those pumps.
Just for your FYI. I also dump whenever I can and can't remember ever using a J.
Safe Travels
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Well he really got thrown under the bus! Guess he hasn't been around for awhile so he hasn't been caught up on everything fun us travelers go through.
I also dump whenever I can, usually at a CG and can't remember ever using a J. I don't want to tie up everyone else that needs to fuel up. Besides I do
it fully so I need quite a bit more time to do more than just a quickie dump. As mentioned earlier $5.00 for dumping seems like a pretty good deal to
me as it could cost a bunch more somewhere else. Just be ready for the dump fee to go up to 10 or $15.00. Then we'll hear a lot more of the P&Ming going on.
For everyone's info I just fueled up at the FlyingJ in Black River Falls, WI at the truck pumps. The truck house is under renovation, and you have to go to the
main building, and I hope it isn't raining like it was for me. I gave the gal my J card and I had to do a pre-pay. I hate that! After I finished fueling I went in for
a receipt and low and behold I was charged the cc price @ $3.99 OUCH! The manager said nothing cando. Get ahold of corp. and they'll credit you. For
$3.00+ I don't think I'll go that route. Anyways it might of been different if I had used the car pump side but I wasn't sure if they had diesel on those pumps.
Just for your FYI. I also dump whenever I can and can't remember ever using a J.
Safe Travels
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I installed A SoHo from Wilson with their outside trucker (to pull the signal in) Antenna and their inside
wall (to relay the boosted signal to our cell phones and printers) mount antenna. Haven't had a problem
with it. Normally 1 bar will boost up to 2, 3, or even 4 bars. I'm using it in conjunction with our cell phones and
our Verizon WiFi card. Also if someone is trying to use their cell phone in a low signal area they'll walk over to
the outside of our Coach and use my booster signal to get their calls completed. I also use our WiFi card as a
Bluetooth to connect our computers to the wireless printers.
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I'm looking to see if anyone has any suggestions for a Convertible to be towed 4 down.
I was going to go to a Mustang but they're to low to the ground.
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I know for a fact that Mustangs can be towed 4 down with a converter kit and a shorter drive shaft from Remco. It seems a bit pricy and I'm looking around for other info from someone whose towing a Mustang. I saw a Mustang in a campground about a year ago that they towed as a 4 down toad so I know it can be done without disconnecting the drive shaft every-time. Just don't know the how's and wheres.
I'm looking at picking up a 2007 GT Mustang tomorrow and will need to tow it behind my Coach.
Any suggestions????
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O.K. Pilot Flying J must think we, as a group, must be about as dumb as a box of rocks. I finally went to the PFJ site to find out where all the hullabaloo is coming from.
I guess I'm just getting tired of hearing about this 500 gal. thing.
DA!!!! Here from their site @ (http://pilotflyingj.com/rv-home) is how PFJ is giving you all the info you need to pump your fuel.
Pump Start Procedures
The discount on Diesel Truck lanes is only available when you register for Pump Start. Please see any Pilot or Flying J Cashier, or visit us at an RV Show to register for Pump Start.
Please note that at this time Pump Start is only available at Truck Diesel Lanes. As usual, you can always start the pump with any major credit card at both RV lanes and Gas lanes.
No 25 gallon minimum or 500 gallon fill up required to receive discounts at the pump.
Do we know what the word NO means???????????
Granted it could be worded different but the correct info is still there. That is if you don't just glance over it, but actually read the info that they are putting out there.
How hard can this be to understand:RV pumps credit card first, then Frequent Fueler or RV Advantage card when asked to insert it, TRUCK LANES Frequent Fueler or RV Advantage card ONLY, then go in and pay.
For either card, get your card registered. Read only whats on the RV site, and keep away from the truckers portal and you might be much better off.
Not much new info seems to coming from this thread, just mostly P**ing & Moaning going on about the same old things that have been hashed out way too many times already.
PFJ is trying to get these changes going but most of what I hear is that, we as a group don't know how easy it is to fuel up without trying to make it difficult on ourselves. We need
to understand also that not all stations are Corporate stations but that some are franchised out. In the PFJ booklets and on their internet site they mention who are and who aren't.
Those that are franchised also seem to always be higher in price as PFJ doesn't control their pricing. Don't ask cashiers questions that you don't want wrong answers to. Some of
them may have just started yesterday and not know any more than u do. I'm just waiting for their pricing to get in line with the old FJ. I won't hold my breath on that one. For me it's as
simple as if I need them, I'll use them, If I don't need them, I won't use them for my fuel, propane, dump, or eating stop. They are handy and if I'm in a bind on any of these I'll use them.
Other than that I'll wait and see before I'm back to using them on a regular basis.
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Sounds like there is a lot of DAs! out there! It seems that those of you who don't use the proper procedures
at the the pumps (Which I will not dwell on, as they have been written about umpteenth million times so far.)
are having the most problems. I also
have not had a problem at either pumps (RV or Truck). I've never gone insideto ask a clerk (and get a wrong answer) if my card will work at their station. At the moment I just don't care
for their pricing structure. The only problem I've ever had with my card is my own fault. I carry a magnet
money clip and the card doesn't like it. So P/FJ clerks had to hand key the card number in until I received my
new card, and yes, I keep my cards away from my money clip now. I've been using FJs for the last 8 years with their
card and I only put on 4m a year on my rig, BUT I've no fueling problems then or now. I've never been N/E but everywhere
else.
As far as the dollar amount of fuel that can be pumped you may need to talk to your credit card company and let them know
how you are using their card so they can take the max hold off of it when your using it to fuel up. It's not always the
stations putting a dollar amount on how much you can purchase at a time. I've had to let 2 card companies know that I'm
filling up my Coach, and not my truck, and that I needed to have them take off the stop amount from my card. I also let them
know that I travel all over the USA and not just in my home state area. Solved a lot of problems.
It just would be nice just to hear some positive and updated good news about P/FJ on this thread.
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No, this is something new since the take over. I am not sure that you can register it on the website since someone from FJ/Pilot needs to register your card with the information from your drivers license.Bill, I just found this on this site https://www.frequent...com/faq.aspx#20 How do I register my Frequent Fueler Advantage RV card? * At any Pilot or Flying J Driver Kiosk – located in each store * www.frequentfueleradvantage.com * Cashier's Counter (for Pump Start feature)
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The first clerk might not have been so stupid. Note that Lynsay also states that your card must be registered. This is something new since the Pilot take-over. You have to take your card into a Flying J, show your ID and have the account properly registered to you.
If I'm not mistaken, and I may be, (good memory) I had registered my card years ago on the Flying J site.
I would assume, and you know what that means, Pilot/Flying J's site would have the same option.
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Another bigggggggggggg thing I forgot to mention is beefing up your rear leaf springs to avoid most side sway and getting sucked in by semi's and the high winds.
I doubled up mine and now I don't know how hard the winds are blowing or if a semi is getting ready to pass me. I only notice a semi is coming by if I pick it up in my
mirror with my peripheral vision. Big thing is how your rear springs are working with your rig.
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Guess this maybe an after the fact buTTTTTTTTTTT, I've a steer safe for 5 years and wouldn't chanEg my setup. It is perfecttttt.
Catastrophic Failure Of Leveling System
in Leveling
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Is your coaches system Electric or hydraulic ?