ruffis

Checked those mirrors, the glass portion unclips from the inner frame by the way. This allows you access to the wiring, heater element etc. Everything looks fine, connections good, no kinks, frays etc. Back to the drawing board...

Great idea, the mirrors are metal framed but must be accessible. I will take a look ASAP, thanks

Thank you for the quick reply wolf, to clarify the draw is on the chassis battery as diagnosed at an auto/RV repair shop. They traced this 20A draw to Fuse #68 in the power distribution box located under the hood, not the passenger compartments fuse panel. This panel contains the high current fuses. They said this should be an unused circuit, their shop manual (F- 450 chassis) indicates “ 50A Modified Vehicle”. Their hunch is something on the coach side has been connected to this. So I pulled this fuse myself, tried all chassis switches and curiously enough I lost the power/heated mirrors function, (quite the hunch on your part!). Please note also their is NO fuse labelled “mirrors” in this power distribution box. There is a 5A fuse labeled “mirrors” in the passenger fuse panel according to the owners manual. I haven’t found this fuse box yet.Should I pull this fuse again and see if the battery stops draining? All I’ve got is a volt meter, do I need to buy a clamp style DC Amp meter to confirm “0” Amps at the chassis battery? I thought I should mention the auto transfer switch replacement because that is the only electrical work performed on this unit. Everything has been working perfectly till that drive home when the GPS portion of the in dash radio suddenly froze, it’s still showing the map that was up at that moment. The only other change is the over cab TV, it was always “on” (Power LED illuminated) whether the Xantrex Inverter was on or off. I just used the battery disconnect switch to deal with this. Now it has NO power running to it, unit plugged in, genset running, MH idling or Inverter on. Haven’t tried just plugging it in with an extension cord from the house, I’ll try that right now. I bought this unit in July this year so still getting to know how everything functions.

Hello all. I recently had my auto transfer switch replaced. Shortly after on the drive home the GPS froze up, radio and back-up camera are fine tho. A clue? Parked our 2010 Greyhawk 31 FK but 2 days later the chassis battery is dead. Used house battery switch to start and drive to my mechanic. There’s a 20 amp draw at the chassis fuse panel #62 labelled “modified vehicle”. Shop manual says there is nothing suppose to be hooked up to this circuit but when fuse pulled we loose the power/heated mirrors. So I have fit an on/off switch into chassis - cable to buy time. Do I buy a clamp meter, connect it to the - or + battery cable? Hope to see this 20 amp draw then disconnect in/out leads on the new transfer switch. (RV not plugged in, genset off but single house battery still connected. safe to proceed?) Draw still there? Kill coach 120V breakers one by one. No change? Pull house 12V fuses one at a time and so on. If no change proceed to the chassis fuse box and repeat. My knowledge on all things RV electrical comes from these forums and the research they inspire. Translation - I know enough to be dangerous right? Cautious by nature, am I on the right track here? At a shop rate of $120/hr I gotta try and fix this problem myself. The field RV tech who replaced our smoking (seriously) auto transfer switch is done for the season and doesn’t answer my voicemail/emails. I’m fearful the campground post supplied power might have caused all this from the get go. They had it checked when I phoned them about my situation for what that’s worth. So that’s it. Any advise is greatly appreciated, hope yer having a much better RV experience than me!, LOL. Enjoy this day!