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Showing results for tags 'electrical issue'.
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Hello all. I recently had my auto transfer switch replaced. Shortly after on the drive home the GPS froze up, radio and back-up camera are fine tho. A clue? Parked our 2010 Greyhawk 31 FK but 2 days later the chassis battery is dead. Used house battery switch to start and drive to my mechanic. There’s a 20 amp draw at the chassis fuse panel #62 labelled “modified vehicle”. Shop manual says there is nothing suppose to be hooked up to this circuit but when fuse pulled we loose the power/heated mirrors. So I have fit an on/off switch into chassis - cable to buy time. Do I buy a clamp meter, connect it to the - or + battery cable? Hope to see this 20 amp draw then disconnect in/out leads on the new transfer switch. (RV not plugged in, genset off but single house battery still connected. safe to proceed?) Draw still there? Kill coach 120V breakers one by one. No change? Pull house 12V fuses one at a time and so on. If no change proceed to the chassis fuse box and repeat. My knowledge on all things RV electrical comes from these forums and the research they inspire. Translation - I know enough to be dangerous right? Cautious by nature, am I on the right track here? At a shop rate of $120/hr I gotta try and fix this problem myself. The field RV tech who replaced our smoking (seriously) auto transfer switch is done for the season and doesn’t answer my voicemail/emails. I’m fearful the campground post supplied power might have caused all this from the get go. They had it checked when I phoned them about my situation for what that’s worth. So that’s it. Any advise is greatly appreciated, hope yer having a much better RV experience than me!, LOL. Enjoy this day!
We are traveling in our 2006 Georgie Boy CruiseMaster Motorhome and I am having an issue when we have moved from 2 different campgrounds. When I disconnect from shore power, I loose the 12 volt DC power from the coach and the water pump, generator, lights, slides etc will not work. Before this. everything functioned fine. I have read most of the motorhome documentation have done some searching on websites. The batteries are relatively new and checked out fine when I had coach serviced before we left Florida back in June. We are going to head back within the next week and I want to be sure I can get this working again just in case the next hurricane decides to join our commute. Thanks in advance, Wayne
We left our home in Readfield, Maine at 8 AM on July 7th. We made 2 rest and lunch stops and 2 fuel stops along the way. We were in a long rolling traffic jam on I-495 in Massacusetts, north of State Route 2. Traffic only stopped completely one brief time, but was just crawling for miles. I turned on the CB for a while. I got a bit of useful information from the truckers' chatter, especially about where the traffic opened up again. However, I could have done without the profanity. It was a construction lane closure that had everything messed up. It could have been worse. We arrived at Black Bear Campground in Florida, NY around 5:30 PM. Black Bear is a very neat and well-maintained campground. I recommend it. It's a few miles off I-84, but worth the diversion. The campsites are up on a ridge and the pool is down near the store and office at the entrance. If you don't have a toad or a golf cart, plan on a good hike down the hill and back up again, if you want to use the pool. On the 8th, we got going a little slow and rolled approximately 9 AM. We made 2 rest and lunch stops and one fuel stop along the way. We got to Cherry Hill Campground around 4:15 PM and were set up on our site by 4:45 PM I learned some things about the MH on this trip: While running both air conditioners at home before the trip, on a 20amp circuit, I forgot I was so overloaded and started the vacuum cleaner as well. That tripped the breaker in my garage. When I went to hook up the shore power on the trip, I found that I had melted the plug adapter. I had to pry it apart, then cut off some rubber remaining from the adapter, and clean one of the prongs of my 30 amp plug. Maybe there's a reason my manual says not to run both air conditioners on a 20 amp plug. While plugging in a night light for my grandson, I discovered that the outlet under the table didn't work. I thought "that's funny - it always has worked." I then checked and reset most of the 120 volt breakers. No problems found there. I checked the outlet on my side of the bed and that was dead, too. Next, I checked the bathroom outlet, which is one of those GFCI units, with the Test and Reset buttons. It was dead also. I pressed the reset and it worked. It was then that I had an "Aha moment!" The other dead outlets are wired through that GFCI outlet! Sure enough, the other outlets worked fine after the GFCI was reset. Grandma was observing my frustration with the outlets and confessed that she "may have" blundered into the test button on the GFCI outlet earlier. I should have diagnosed the problem sooner. At home, we have several outlets wired through a GFCI outlet the same way. This Spring, I paid a goodly sum to have the dash AC fixed in the motorhome. On this trip, I got some return on that investment! The temps were in the low to mid 90's. With the dash AC blowing on me, I was comfortable most of the time in the driver's seat. However, the rest of the coach was getting quite warm. During rest and lunch stops, I started the generator and ran the two rooftop AC units. On the last leg of the trip in the afternoon, I let the generator and the rooftop AC's run while driving down the highway. I have read in the forums that some other folks do this. It helped to keep us cooler, and it didn't seem to use a lot more gas. Besides, I understand that it's good for the generator to run it under a good load occasionally! I'm not sure if it is due to a problem in the ductwork, or a problem with the AC unit itself, but the front rooftop AC (actually closer to mid-length) does not push much air to the front two sets of vents. The rear AC, over the bedroom, will freeze you out. Some day, I may take things apart enough to find out if there is an obstruction in the duct. Other comments: The EZ-Pass is fantastic for paying tolls! We have a lot of toll roads and bridges in the Northeast. All of them on this trip took the EZ-Pass. Several toll stations had high-speed lanes that read the EZ-Pass at full speed! I am getting somewhat used to driving the MH in any lane, with traffic and big trucks all around me. It's still a little tense, but I can manage. The NJ Turnpike was the worst driving. I decided to take another route on the return trip. It is my understanding that some of the diesel pushers handle much better than our 33 ft gasser. That would be nice - especially for the kinds of driving we have had on this trip! As I am finishing up this entry, we are back home and I'm back at work (some day, I'll REALLY retire!) I plan to write a post about our time in Washington and another about our trip back.
New owner of 2003 Dolphin LX 6320. On first long road trip and dashboard radio and cig. lighter went out. Problem began when parked and hooked up to shore power. Radio began making wierd beeping sound. Could not get it to turn off so unplugged it. Went to start engine and battery was dead. Jump started and on way to next stop, noticed cig. lighter was dead as well. Suspect fuse but for the life of me, can't find the location of the fuse for these items. Is it in panel beneath the dash or in the electrical compartment to right of the front door? Also, could there be relationship between beeping sound from radio and dead engine battery? Mdawdy