mdcbert
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Posts posted by mdcbert
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Since it is a "sticks and staples" type of motorhome on a truck chassis, and after confirming the front end alignment and/or rebuild, maybe you could look into one of the aftermarket steering stabilizers offered to the RV market like this one from Roadmaster
http://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/rss/reflex.html
Also, I have been reading articles in the FMCA magazine about S&S type of motorhome suspensions bring overloaded right from the factory, it may have a broken rear spring, or worn out already bushings, get it on a rack and look under it really well.
Take a quick look also for Converted Busses, for $30K you could find a really really nice Conversion on a chassis thats made to last a Million miles, built like a fort, and returns many smiles and random "thumbs-up" wherever you go!
Mike Siebert F421097
Portland OR
1948 Gillig
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NO NEED for the ACC position! There is an "off" position next to the Lock position that keeps the electrical off and the steering column UNlocked!
I will be towing my 5-speed manual FWD Escape 4 wheels down. I will be leaving the key in the accy position, but the dash digital clock stays on. Should I be pulling a fuse, or will the vehicle power saver kick in, or is the power drain minimal?
Thanks for any help...
John.
Towing 2012 Ford Focus
in Toads-Towed Behind Motorhome
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NAPA auto parts sells a heavy duty manual on-off switch, made for isolating batteries. I have installed them in the middle of the grounding wire circuit, secretly located inside of a fenderwell to prevent theft. This could be used if your towd's lighting is getting its power from your RV.