BrianB

My '97 Coach has a 3126 CAT and Allison 3060. After a long drive at freeway speeds when I slow down to city street speeds and then come to a stop at a light, sometimes I get either a Low Oil light or Low Oil Level light along with a warning chime. The light goes off and the warning chime stops after a few seconds. The gauge also reads low. This has gone on since I have owned the coach. I have had three oil and filter changes so far. Oil testing shows all normal and no evidence of wear. Engine has only 45K miles. I called CAT some time ago and they said that it should not be a problem as the engine will stop if there is no oil pressure. I think it might be a bad sending unit. I don't see where the sender is located on the passenger side or I just don't recognize it. I am also going to install a mechanical gauge and see what that reads compared to the dash gauge. I have never had a CEL come on and never had the engine de-rate or stop running. Any ideas on what could be the problem and where the sender is located?

Emma Wood is a State Park and you will need reservations to stay there. It is primative. Faria is a county park and is first come first served. Some hookups and most primitive. Rincon is along the old highway and is primative and NOISY. We were there Sunday night and did not sleep one wink all night. Hobson Beach is at the north end of Rincon and has some hookups and is also a County park.

The DW and I like to go up to Lake Cachuma alot. They have full hookups as well as "primitive" spaces. The west facing side along the shore is beautiful but it is WINDY and not fun. Good food at the Cold Spring Tavern nearby. Or go into Los Olivos or even Solvang for good restaurants. Both are not too far away from the Lake.

Got some PB Blaster from a hot rod friend and am trying it tonight. If I can get it freed up I should get some boost from the turbo that I have been missing all along. I am afraid to take the circlip off the linkage as I will never get a tool much less my fat fingers into that tiny space to reinstall it. My linkage is actually frozen in the wide open position. The pressure actuator is fuly extended and the wastegate lever needs to be tapped (pulled) down to release it. I will use a bent nail inserted into my slide hammer and see if it will break free. Some of the guys have said that the wastegate will open at only 18psi and they have left theirs in the closed position so they have more boost.

The wastegate on my turbo is frozen in the open position. Anyone know how to free this up? Anyone have a picture of the wastegate? Anyone ever remove and replace their turbo?

OK...I solved the problem. The PO put in new carpeting and had to remove and replace the J-Box. When he did this he put BOTH legs of the generator output (black and black/yellow stripe) to the black wire going to the ATS. He then put one of the two available white neutral wires on the red transmission wire going to the ATS. I rewired the black wires splitting them up to go to the black and red wires to the ATS. I then put the two incoming white neutrals to the outgoing white neutral, fired up the Onan and all is good to go. Winning! I am just glad the PO did not wire them up so that there was damage to the Onan from running it.

The next step is to drop the Onan and check the circuit breakers on the gen itself. I am only two feet from them and I have no power there.

It seems that my Onan 6500 NHE LP-gas generator has lost the 20-amp leg of power. The 30-amp leg works and the generator runs and sounds fine. The two circuit breakers are okay, too. Tthere is just no power on the 20-amp leg. Anyone have any ideas of where I should start?

The J-box is right over the generator. The generator is right under the passenger seat. I will have to lower the generator to see further upstream. Is there any reason for the one leg to fail? Circuit board etc?

I found a J-box under the passenger foot area where the generator output connects to the wires to the rear of the coach. I started the Onan and I again have power on the black leg but there is no power on the red leg. The red is probably the 20Amp leg and is why the rear A/C has no power when on the generator. The ATS while on shore power gives it to both legs in the panel I posted. But on generator it divides the power into 30 and 20 amp legs and since there is no 20 amp leg from the generator there is no power in the panel on the red 20 amp wire. Now to find out why the generator has no 20AMP output. Any ideas?

Thanks Brett, It looks like to access the ATS I have to remove the converter. Is there another way to access this?

I opened the power panel and I have power on the black line BUT no power on the red line? What next? Does this panel get power from the genset or from the transfer switch?

Thanks for the reply. Both units run properly. Each will go on and cool with two fan speeds available. They just won't run at the same time on the gen. Rear will not run on the generator at all.

Brett: Yes all other appliances work. (micro) and I have 125V at the outlets while the gen is running. Bill: Yes I can run both A/C's at the same time while on 120V shore power. While on shore power the A/C units will start up when the switch is turned on. When on generator power there is a long delay before they will start even if the gen has been running for some time.

I have two roof A/C units. They are operated by two separate thermostats. I have an Onan LP generator 6500 50AMP. I can run the A/C units separately on shore power (120V) Both units will not run on the generator. The generator has two circuit breakers on it and they are both on and functioning.