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tom538

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Posts posted by tom538


  1. I built the gadget mentioned with the modification shown in the second video. What's nice is it shows the exact status of the coaches compressor. I carry 105 pounds in my tires so when the pressure being put out by the coach drops below that figure I force it to cycle so it builds back up to 130 pounds before I try to put air in a tire. The bleed valve quickly drops the coaches compressor down to where it cuts in and builds back up to the 130 pound cutoff point. Also building the pressure up to 130 pounds speeds up the filling process.


  2. Ok. The official word from Fleetwood is that there is a gap between the the slide and central floor when the slide is retracted on my 2004 Fleetwood Expedition.

    This confirms mrmoyers observation in an earlier post . Also, I spoke to the local rv tech and he also confirmed the gap.

    The key point that Rich made was that if the slide is evenly sealed all the way around on the outside of the coach when the slide is retracted, it is most likely fully retracted.

    Again, thanks to everyone for your input.


  3. Oh boy. This could be very embarrassing.

    The slide appears to be fully retracted when observed from the outside of the coach. I am now concerned that I may have imagined that the slide dropped down and mated with the inner carpet when fully retracted. Thus the condition I described as resulting from a slide closure issue may in fact be a normal outcome when the slide is fully retracted. I will call Fleetwood tomorrow to get their input regarding my 2004 expedition's normal slide configuration when fully retracted.

    I am very grateful for everyone's input to my original post and particularly mrmoyer for pointing out what may be the obvious answer.
    I am very sorry if I wasted everyone's time. I have a RV tech coming out tomorrow and if he confirms mrmoyers observation I will post it.

    To Rich and everyone else, thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and suggestions.

    This is an awesome organization.


  4. Just one more thought. If my coach batteries were weak would the slide go out OK and not be able to retract fully?

    Could it possibly be due to weak coach batteries? Also, even though I'm on shore power with the battery charger operating, would the batteries still not have enough oomph to fully retract the slide?

    The clicking noise I am hearing when the slide is almost fully retracted and stops moving is similar to the stuttering relay sound you hear when a car battery is too weak to start a car.

    Is it possible that there is more resistance to the slide fully closing when it is almost closed? I know I'm grasping at straws but would appreciate any thoughts out there.

    I will be calling Powergear tomorrow.

    Thanks to everyone for your suggestions so far.


  5. I was finally able to locate my owners manual on the living room slide system. It's a 2004 power gear system. The owners manual is useless for troubleshooting.

    They slide is electric. The in/out is controlled by a rocker switch. No hole near the buttons.

    The slide goes out without problem. It comes almost all the way in but not quite enough for the slide to drop down and mate with the central floor.

    There is a clicking sound when the slide stops moving.


  6. Hi rich

    To answer your questions

    1- it doesn't move or wiggle at all

    2- the slide is equally compressed on both ends.

    3- slide system is original equipment on the 2004 fleetwood Expedition . I don't know whose system it is.

    4- interestingly enough, it appears the box portion of the slide is fully retracted but the carpet area at the bottom isn't retracted enough to allow the slide portion of the carpet drop down and "kiss" the center portion of the coaches carpet.

    I hope this makes some sense and thank you for your interest and help. This IS a great organization.

    Tom


  7. The living room slide on my 2004 Fleetwood Expedition opens normally and will close to the point just before where the carpet on the slide drops down about an inch to mate with the carpet in the center of the coach. This leaves about a 1 inch gap.

    The slide stops just before where the drop and mating should occur. I am concerned that the exterior seals are not fully meshed because the slide isn't fully retracted.

    Any thoughts on what may be causing this problem?


  8. Thanks to everybody for their great help in analyzing my engine problem. Here is what happened next. We were towed to a Cummins repair shop today that primarily works on large trucks. They reluctantly agreed to look at my RV as a lot of the large Cummins outlets only do trucks but GOOD SAMS would not pay to have me towed further as they were an authorized Cummins repair facility and could run the Cummins fault code software.

    Fortunately, the service personnel were very good and determined that the fault code was low fuel pressure. Based on Rich's posting above, I insisted that they look for a inline fuel filter which they finally found after sending their littlest mechanic under the coach into the area Rich suggested. This inline filter is about the size of a banana ( a straight banana of course). When they disconnected and examined this filter they found it was full of rust and gook and most of the filtration holes were plugged. The mechanic suggested that this filter had not been changed for a very long time. I checked my bills from the Cummins repair facility in Savannah that serviced my coach three months ago and found that I had paid for TWO fuel filters to be changed. The primary inline filter and the water/fuel separator filter which is quite visible. I retained the defective filter and will be having a chat with my Cummins dealer when we get home in the next few days.

    The engine purrs like a kitten now and has power to spare on hills.

    I was very lucky my problem wasn't any more serious and sincerely appreciate the great information I received from all of you who posted replies to my original message.

    Thank you


  9. The Cummins diesel in my 2004 Expedition is stuttering and losing power when climbing a grade out on the highway. Simultaneously the "check engine " light comes on. Once I have started downhill the ""check engine" light does out and the engine regains power and speed. I had the combo fuel/water filter changed yesterday and the problem temporarily went away. Shortly later the stuttering and power loss returned accompanied with little puffs of black smoke coming out of the engine exhaust pipe. I limped into a campground in Roanoke Rapids North Carolina. A call to the nearest Cummins dealer (60 miles away) suggested that I have the coach towed to the dealership. Anybody have any thoughts on what is occurring? I am very nervous about having the coach towed and wonder if there are any cautions I should be aware of in doing so

    .
    This is a very sad end to a wonderful two month trip to the northeast. Fortunately this is a very nice campground so we are making the best of it.

    Thanks for listening.
    Tom


  10. The primary power cord on my Fleetwood Expedition has a 50amp plug. When visiting parks with 30 amp power sources I connect a short adapter cable which has a 30amp plug. If I purchase a 50 amp surge protector can I use it in parks that only have 30amp power by using my 30amp adapter cable or do I have to have a separate 30 amp and 50 amp protector to cover both possibilities . These devices are not cheap so I hope that the larger. 50 amp unit can cover both situations.


  11. The temp outside today is 48 degrees. I need to check the tire pressure on the six tires on my Fleetwood Expedition and inflate them to 105 lbs if needed. Will I get lower readings than normal because of the 48 degree temp as opposed to checking them on a warm day?


  12. Well, here is the end of my saga. After I was unable to locate the "code reading" switch Rich had alluded to in his posts I bit the bullet and drove 55 miles to my closest Cummins dealer to have them read the code and make a diagnosis using their diagnostic equipment. Thank goodness I followed Wolfe10s advice to do so as my problem turned out to be a fuel lifter pump that was about to completely die. I noticed on the drive to the Cummins dealer that the engine performance was sluggish which it turned out was the result of the failing pump not keeping up with the demand for fuel . Acording to the Cummins dealer I was lucky that I made a timely repair as if the lift pump had completely failed the main fuel pump could be over stressed and also fail. Also, in either case, the engine would stop. I was fortunate that I made to the dealer.

    The lift pump was a $200 item but the main fuel pump is a much more costly part.

    The moral of the story is that a "check engine" light should be dealt with promptly even though other gauges are showing normal performance. Even though the "check engine" indication can be something as minor as a failing sensor, it cannot be ignored as it may be something much more serious.

    I really appreciate the time Rich and Wolfe10 devoted to helping me solve my problem.

    I am lucky to belong to the FMCA and it's caring membership.

    Tom


  13. Hi Rich and others,

    Well, I went down and searched for the check engine switch down by the steering column as you suggested. I couldn't find it there or anywhere in the vicinity. Probably didn't know what I was looking for.

    If anyone has the same coach (2004 Fleetwood Expedition) and can help me locate it I would be most appreciative.

    Thanks

    Tom

    P.S. Rich, by the way, I did not receive the picture.


  14. After finishing a 5000 mile trip in my 2004 Fleetwood Expedition RV I did not use my motorhome for over 2 months.

    I just tried to start it and although it started right away the "check engine" warning light will not go out. I drove the unit for several miles to get the engine up to temperature. Oil pressure and temps are normal. Engine temp is normal. Battery charging rate is normal. Anybody have a clue as to what is going on.

    By the way I checked both oil and coolant levels. Both were normal. Could I have a contaminated fuel line filter that is just bad enough to set off the warning light?

    I realize that "check engine" is a pretty broad category so any help will be appreciated.

    Thank you.

    Tom

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