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bm02tj

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Everything posted by bm02tj

  1. Common sense is not common non accidents are not reported Brakes on toad will stop in shorter distance no data required
  2. That will protect the over filling of tank but if check in pump bad it will still cycle just not as long so fix pump as well as adding extra check valve
  3. An other site I am on copys the post to the new location then locks the original with note where to find it so no one thinks their stuff is deleted
  4. In Canada they need to be tagged and rated at 350PSI for a rubber propane hose Only a few shops can make and certify hoses
  5. Make sure the shop making hoses can certify and tag the hoses with proper info It sounds like you donot have permanently installed tanks so needs to be re-certified
  6. It could be a crank or camshaft sensor You need a shop with the real analyser not just a code reader Also a good operator some are stupid
  7. Regulator should be set at 11 in WC 28 in WC = 1 PSI
  8. That is a temp chart to show expansion of liquid with temperature
  9. Hells gate, Hatcreek and Barkersville And there is lots of fuel up here. The scenery in the Frazer canyon is nice or if you are up to it with good engine brakes and know hills up through Whistler Pemberton and lillooet hilly and windy slow drive in a big rig.
  10. You need to have the gas pressure checked and if 10 or 11 in WC then have taken apart and the orifice cleaned as bugs may have filled with mud
  11. Go to the dollar store and buy bubble solution for kids works great for leak tests
  12. Is this like newer house furnaces that will not start if proof of fan is closed before it starts as protection to the safety being jumped or shorted
  13. They all hire local contractors so you need to tell them what you weigh and how long your rig is
  14. If you are using unvented heater without sensor you could have high co2 and low O2 with out tripping co sensors it is so unhealthy and possible deadly do not use even with an open window
  15. Any non vented heater uses the O2 and when that is gone it makes CO both not good unless designed for non vent use with a sensor to turn it off do not use in your motor home It could be unhealthy or deadly
  16. Modified sine works on most things but does cause more heat in motors and small chargers where the pure sine cost more and is easier on your stuff your call
  17. If the furnace exhaust is to cool it will condense and corrode the internal parts. As a rule of thumb more than 84% you start to get acidic moisture inside.
  18. If you did not get your air from a source with an air drier then use your dry air from your motor home or find a shop with an air drier to give you air with no moisture or go Nitrogen the expansion is less for dry air than moist air
  19. That -50f is burst protection so almost solid but not breaking anything If the blue is washer antifreeze you need to do a really good flush Ask for info on the blue stuff they used Just looked they do make blue RV antifreeze
  20. It is not 11 inches apart but 11 inches centre to centre
  21. I was told highway trucks yearly motorhomes every two I do mine every three years
  22. most HVAC use 10k thermistors so should be easy to get just google 10k thermistor chart will give you the values
  23. I made mine out of an old propane tank a couple 1in Nipples and a ball valve I cut the top metal off to make it easier
  24. I have had the HSR on the steers for 3 years and looking at the Conti Hybrid HD3 for drives only because I have been in snow and slimy camp ground stuff If no chance of ever needing traction go with the regional all position tires
  25. bm02tj

    Good Drive Tire

    I have traction tires that are aged out and I carry chains I need to replace them and looking at the continentals
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