bm02tj

The rigs built for 80,000 have twin screws to pull the load and likely lower gears. It looks to be a relatively safe way to haul more.

The hitch is only part of the reason for a max tow weight: motor, transmission, axles, brakes, frame, tires... Be safe-- stay below the max.

Poor power, bad capacitor stuck TXV bad bearings-- you need to be more specific of the noise or have some one look at it

I almost sounds like you have low voltage or bad capacitors on you units start up amperage should not be that high.

I had an old neighbor that was running Cat and was talking about the truckers that idled there motors a lot and would drop valves So I have always tried not to idle any motor. When you start it drive it slowly as soon as you have oil and air pressure and always heat it up.

On a lot of GM's it is the oil pressure switch that runs the fuel pump relay after the time out on start so it could also be low oil pressure

The average GM in tank pump is good for 6 or 7 years and or 100,000 miles and less if you run your tank empty a few times check wiring if all good put a new pump in. And hope you don't have a full tank.

I believe it is best to mix water with the antifreeze before installing it in a 60 to 70% then top up with water as pure antifreeze can and will destroy the water pump seal if enough water does not get mix with the antifreeze when you start it back up

Enjoy your travels and don't look and what the other traveler is carrying.

If you need to boost your rig from a car or truck: Hook the cables up and let you boost rig surface charge the battery's for 20 to 30 minutes. Shut off boost vehicle so not to damage electronics from voltage spike then start your rig.

It also could be the accumulator for the antilock and traction control has bled down and lowers the available assist until the unit is operated for a short time

My manual tells me to depress the throttle and release before starting then let the ECU do its thing. That is for a 1999 3126 Cat

Mine comes on for a short time at 70F ambient and longer the colder it gets. About the only time it does not come on is warm restart.

Different size tires front to back

Transport trucks should be doing the filters every year and we should be every two to three years. and again how you use it and where you go

Use an equalizer hitch to spread the load to the front after you deal with the other limiting factors

Oil oxidizes, so if in doubt change it. It is cheaper to change than risk it.

My air drier was nasty when I changed the filter. The shop that I had servicing never told me about it. I learned that here-- read and learn with the rest of us.

If I understand what you are saying it is for safety if a bag blew well you are under your coach. I would keep using the wood. I built cat blocks out for 2x4's for working under.

With factory type plug wires when they run parallel you can get induction and fire a plug to a cylinder with the intake valve open. Back when propane conversions where common a few air boxes blew off from cross fire from induction, so try to separate your wires and if crossing another one try for 90 degrees to prevent induction.

Part of the delay is the intake heater and the colder it is the longer the delay.

I believe that air fitting is to air up your system to release the parking brakes for towing instead of using caging bolts on the brake pots.

And if you tell the complete whole story assuming people know nothing no one will read it . So use the short version and people can ask questions they will learn more that way.

On my FL80 I can fill one saddle and it will equalize with the other one so check for a pinched or plugged balance tube

I think one is OD and the other is circumference .25 inch X 3.14 = 0.79 3/4 is 0.75