wmurphy

Ikentn, PS: I don't know whether or not your Auto Stop tubing would work with the Ready Brake. If the cables are the same size and the tubing chase and end fasteners are still in decent shape, maybe it could work. The folks at NSA might be able to answer that question. On the other hand, in these days of worrisome litigation and liability issues, they might hesitate to recommend anything other than their own system set-up. WM

Ikentn, I did a DIY installation of a Ready Brake on my Jeep Wrangler about a year ago. Installation was not that difficult. Since then I have taken a couple of long cross-country road trips towing my Jeep, and the Ready Brake has seemed to function just fine. I like the system because the proportional braking concept and mechanism are easy for my feeble mind to grasp, and it makes sense to me. I also like the system because it is relatively inexpensive, it appears to be well made, it is a fairly simple mechanism with few components to fail, the hook-up/disconnect process is quick and simple, and no calibration is required every time you hook-up. So far, it has worked well for me.........knock wood. I do still have some question about how much stress the system places on my MH receiver hitch, but I cannot find any evidence of a problem at this point. I did not install the included indicator light on the dashboard of my MH because I did not want to mess with that. The indicator is designed to light up when the lever arm on the Ready Brake is activated. Although it does not indicate actual braking, you can assume that when the lever arm is activated, at least some braking is occuring. I do check the system periodically and didn't think I needed the indicator. I don't know how to truly quantify the actual degree of the braking that occurs when the lever is activated, but everything stops as it should when I apply the brake in the MH and I think the degree of brake engagment on the tow vehicle is difficult to accurately assess with any system. The tow vehicle needs to brake.......but not too much.......and, again, that is why the proportional system of the Ready Brake appeals to me. After a braking stop, the front rotors on my Jeep are hot. If I coast to a slow stop after a period without braking, the rotors are cool to the touch, so the Ready Brake seems to be functioning as designed. I know of someone whose Brake Buddy malfunctioned and the tow vehicle caught fire. That also influenced my decision to go with the Ready Brake. And, I would like to put in a good word for the folks at NSA (the Ready Brake manufacturer) in Iola, KS. They are very friendly, helpful, and easy to work with. Nothing is perfect, and I'm sure that someone somewhere out there has had a problem with their Ready Brake, but I have been happy with mine. Good luck and safe travels, WM

Thank you for the response. The macerator pump is made by Shurflow, and barring some unforseen factor, I do think it should be repairable. However, my primary problem is access to the pump in the Reyo. Offhand, it appears that there could be a major forest of plumbing and connections to get through (or remove) in order to access the pump for removal. I am hoping someone out there has some recommendations based on experience in dealing with this problem specifically on the Reyo. Thanks again.

I have a 2011 Itasca Reyo 25T on a 2010 Sprinter 3500 chassis. The gray water tank is emptied by a macerator pump, and the pump does not work. The motor seems to run, but I think the impeller is spinning on the shaft, so it does not pump. The pump is partly visible way back behind a water system control panel with valve controls, city water connection, and outside shower controls, etc. mounted on it and some plumbing behind it. I live at least 100 miles from the nearest dealer and would like to attempt repair/replacement of the the pump myself. While I think the actual repair/replacement of the pump would be pretty straightforward, access to the pump itself appears difficult. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations regarding accessing the macerator pump on the Reyo 25T. Any guidance would be appreciated. Thanks.

JohnF, Thanks very much for the info. Your positive comments about the Ready Brake are consistent with those I have seen from other RB users. My MH receiver hitch is about 4" higher than my Jeep tow plate connectors. I do have a 4" drop receiver, but the drop receiver would add 9" to the "lever arm," which is my basic concern. With the drop receiver added to the Ready Brake itself and to the male component of the tow bar which fits into the back of the Ready Brake, the pivot point at the tow bar wishbone would be out about 32-33" behind the end of the MH receiver hitch.........and that distance is worrisome to me. Would the forces on the hitch compounded by a "lever arm" effect from that length present a problem? If you wouldn't mind commenting, do you use a drop receiver? About how far is the pivot point on your towbar from the end of your MH hitch receiver? Sorry for nit-picky questions, but I'm trying to get a better picture as to whether the Ready Brake will be OK for me. I just don't want my MH hitch to bend or break off on some inopportune occasion. Thanks again, WM

I am interested in the Ready Brake surge braking system for my Jeep Wrangler. Reviews that I have seen by owners/users of the Ready Brake system are positive, and the simplicity of the system appeals to me. My motor home has a Class III hitch (500 lbs. max. tongue wt./ 5000 lbs max. tow wt.), and I have a Blue Ox Aventa LX towbar. My question is: Does the Ready Brake system place excessive stress/load on the receiver hitch of the motor home during turning and braking? If the Ready Brake is installed between the MH hitch and the towbar, it would seem that the "extension" of the Ready Brake from the hitch would create a "lever arm" capable of putting quite a bit of torque/stress on the hitch itself. Have any Ready Brake users encountered any problems in this regard? Any thoughts as to whether this is a potentially a real problem or simply of no concern with the Ready Brake? Recommendations or comments would be welcome. Thanks, WM in AR