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RonaldNC

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Posts posted by RonaldNC

  1. Posted · Report reply

    5 hours ago, danorske said:

    Ronald, You said its hard to find, you are right. Where did you find one?

    Thanks,

    Ron

    Ron,

    I'm not sure it's an exact match to what you need, but here is where I bought it in Ebay.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trane-45-12-5Mfd-440V-Rnd-Run-Cap-OEM-CPT0688/381974411981?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3Dd100968a6f0e496385b8a2d0ef495102%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D372557506355%26itm%3D381974411981%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2509164&_trksid=p2509164.c100903.m5276

    It's a 440 volt, instead of 330 volt... but that's okay.  It is physically larger than the original, but I found a spot above the fan to attach it.  Just used some really strong two-sided padded tape to hold it there.

    The other option is to buy two separate capacitors (In my case a 45 Mfd and 12.5 Mfd) and do a little rewiring.  I didn't like that option, but it would also work.

     If you need more help, just email me.

    Good luck,

    Ron

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I had a similar problem a couple of months ago.  Everything looked good... but the compressor wouldn't come on.  Per the service manual, I tested the start/run capacitor and it was bad.  I bought a new one (hard to find) and now it starts/runs like a champ.

    Unfortunately, you'll need to get on the roof to check it.  If you can't... call a service tech.

    If you need the service manual and parts manual, I would be happy to email it to you.  Just send me your email address.

    Good luck,

    Ron

  3. Posted · Report reply

    My 2009 Monaco Cayman also has the cage as a stock item (I bought it new).  Interestingly, on mine, the two forward nuts are welded to the frame, but the two rear tabs attach with a loose bolt and nut through a hole in the frame.  You may consider that option rather than welding to the frame.  I love having it back there... but it is a pain when accessing the oil and fuel filter.

    Good luck!

    Ron

  4. Posted · Report reply

    On 9/29/2018 at 6:19 PM, keithl said:

    i just purchased this 2009 Damon used it twice now the levelers won't retract. We have an RV with Lippert Jack system.  We have reset the system and still nothing.

    I pulled up the methods with the allen wrench but i can't fit the drill in the area to use not sure if I'm even in the right location-- I'm not mechanical.

    What can we try next?

    keith

    Keith,

    This happened to me once after a slide repair.  Mechanic came out and discovered that my fluid was low.  He put in a half quart of fluid and the jacks retracted perfectly.  Sometimes it can be the simple things.

    If not that, you need to determine if the pump is running.  If not, then look for electrical solutions, as suggested by the other posts.  If the pump is running, then you have a hydraulic issue.  Either way, give Lippert a call.  They have been very helpful to me with technical support.

    Ron

  5. Posted · Report reply

    32 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:

    Ron, did you buy your coach new? Quite often some strange things happen, and some of those are that a previous owner "DIYER", or maybe even a qualified mechanic have been known to accidently change wires around causing things to not be the way that they should. I've worked on several coaches over the past thirty years, and have not found one to be wired the same as yours, not saying that yours isn't as stated, but it is a strange coincidence. It is possible that someone may have actually wired yours that way on purpose including the dealership for show purposes, making sure that there was no accidental starts while showing your unit in a show. But I agree with Brett that this is very unusual for a manufacturer to put one together this way. Hope the OP gets his worked out soon, I know frustrating it is to not get to use an RV when planned, had the same situation just three weeks ago. Also I didn't mention that my coach wouldn't start after replacing the cracked manifold, found the problem, it was in my case, a fuel shutoff valve up front by the fuel tank, a wire terminal nut was a half turn from being tight, a lot of rain that week, moisture actually caused the breakdown. I mention this because many times something as simple as a loose/bad connection will cause problems such as the OP is experiencing.

    Yes, I bought my coach new.  However, it was a show model that had about 8,000 miles on it.  When I get some time, I'll pull the wiring diagrams and see if something was rigged "special" for the shows.  It doesn't bother me a lot, as I know what it does.

    Interestingly, I didn't know about this until about two years ago.  I got in to start the coach when it was in storage and it wouldn't start.  I checked everything around the dash... transmission, park brake, clicked the key on and off, etc.  My wife asked it the "orange button" needed to be pushed, as I usually did that upon entering the coach so I could turn the lights on.  I told her "no" and that it didn't matter.  After a few minutes, I thought "what the heck" and hit the button... of course, the coach fired right up.  My wife has never let me live it down ever since.

    My challenge will be to find where they cross wired it to not let the coach start...

    Ron

  6. Posted · Report reply

    42 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

    Ron,

    Sorry but I have to agree with Brett. I have a Monaco and there and there are three battery switches in the coach. There are two in the battery compartment. They are called Battery Disconnect Switched. One for the house batteries and one for the Chassis batteries.  The third switch is the battery cut off switch  (aka "Salesman Switch "). The S/S cuts the power to the items that can be left on between showings. Lightsand soforth. It has no effect on the chassis batteries. The OP needs to test the power to the starter solenoid and instruments solenoid.  If there is power to one side of each then there is an issue from the ignition switch. It is very unlikely that both solenoids would go bad at the same time.

    He said he was going to the coach to trouble shoot. Lets let him tell us what he finds. 

    Herman,

    I hear you.... however, I just tested my coach and it won't start with the salesman switch off.  I turn it off... won't start... turn it on... it starts.  Not all Monaco models are alike.  I think it might be powering/un-powering some other solenoid???  Mike and I have even found some differences between our supposedly identical coaches.  I have two high powered breakers in my battery compartment... he has one.  I don't always understand why there are differences... but "it is, what it is"!

    Thanks for all the help!

    Ron

  7. Posted · Report reply

    44 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:

    Very strange that the ignition/start circuit would be through the HOUSE battery?? Oh well.

    But I would check both  the IGNITION SWITCH and IGNITION SOLENOID.

    The key is just used to close the ignition solenoid.  So, locate the ignition solenoid.  Two large lugs: one hot all the time (connected to chassis battery) the other large lug only hot when the solenoid is activated.

    There will also be either one or two small terminals.  If only one, it gets its 12 VDC positive signal from the ignition switch to close the contacts in the solenoid.  Ground is through the metal body of the solenoid to good metal of the coach.  If a second small terminal the second one is ground.

    Assuming one or the other may be at fault:

    Verify 12 VDC on the small positive terminal of the ignition solenoid when and only when the key is on.  If not, remove the wire from the ignition switch at the small terminal. Use a small jumper wire (will only carry a few amps) from the always hot large lug to the positive terminal. 

    Let us  know what you find.

    And remember, there ARE other "safety lock-outs" that could be at play here, but this is a good place to start. If providing positive to the small terminal of the ignition solenoid gets you going, you need to check the ignition switch, the fuse supplying it and any safety lock-outs.

    Thanks Brett!

    Interestingly, he has no power to the Allison shift selector.  According to his manual's trouble shooting diagram, that may mean that a 10 amp "engine fuse" in his rear electric distribution box may be blown.

    Ron

  8. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

    To bypass a solenoid merely remove the large-gauge wires from one large lug and ADD them to the other large lug. You could use a jumper, but would have to be extremely careful to not touch any metal (ground).  Moving the wires is a lot safer.  And put a bread tie, paint mark or record wire numbers of those you move so you can return them to their original position to disconnect your bypass.

    And, likely some confusion here.  The CHASSIS battery, not house battery powers the dash and starter.  So the salesman switch that turns off 12 VDC to interior lights, etc is not involved-- at least on any motorhome I have worked on.

    Brett,

    You are almost always right... but not in this case. LOL!  My model (the Monaco version of the OP's) won't start with the battery cut-off switch (salesman switch) off.  It doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but I've confirmed it many times... when I forget to turn it on.

    I've spoken to the OP (Mike) on the phone and his problem is a bit bewildering.  Everything in the coach works and he can start his generator just fine.  There is just no power to the chassis/motor/transmission.  He's checked the batteries, battery switches, high-powered breakers, solenoid, etc.  Everything thing worked fine when he parked it in his storage garage.  He's been plugged in the whole time.  He hadn't worked on it while in storage.  Truly a mystery!

    Is there some other potential point of failure that is possible between the battery and the chassis?  We're stumped.  I told him to call Monaco technical support on Monday, as they have been pretty useful to me in figuring out problems.

    Ron

  9. Posted · Report reply

    31 minutes ago, mjlisenby said:

    Ron Im not sure I have a salesman switch that your refering to are you referring too the battery cut off switch? 

    Yes, that's the one.  It turns off all the power, except refrigerator and a couple of other things.  Mine won't start without that turned on.  You should hear some clicking of the relays in the front left area of the coach when you turn on or off.  You can tell if it's on when the internal lights work.  If it fails, then it's likely the solenoid in the battery compartment... which has gone bad on me twice since I've owned my coach.

    Again, if we need to get on the phone to discuss... I'm happy to.

    Ron

  10. Posted · Report reply

    33 minutes ago, mjlisenby said:

    Unfortunately, because the key won't turn the engine over I can't retract the jacks. The slides were in I was able to bring those in using the batteries. The engine is in neutral but I can't shift it at all as there is no panel electric. Bay doors were all shut. Thanks for the ideas I appreciate the brainstorming. 

    You can start the engine with the jacks down and the slides out... do it all the time.  Based on what you've written, I'm feeling it's the salesman switch or the solenoid that it controls in the battery compartment.  What you describe is what I experience in mine when that is the problem.

     

    Ron

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Gramps,

    I didn't have any trouble removing the two inch strip... it was just attached with two-sided tape.  What gave me trouble was accessing the place where the cable attaches to the slide.  My is also covered with wood, but I couldn't remove it.  How do you access the cable end?

    Ron

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Okay... got good news and bad news.  I bought all the tools, replacement cables, etc.  I removed the top layer of trim above the slide and could access the motor and cable.  However, I couldn't remove the bottom layer of trim that provides easier access to the cables.  There are three long screws that attach it to the ceiling... got two out, but not the third.  I'll have to wait until I get access to an "easy out" or a cutter wheel.  I also can not figure out how to remove the side trim on the slide itself (to provide access to the cable ends).  Very frustrating!!!

    Now the good news.  To my surprise, I found that none of the cables are broken!!!  They were just so loose that they felt broken on the sides.  The cable adjusters were all nearly falling out.  I tightened the adjustors (which was difficult without all the trim off) and the slides work great now.  When I get better access, I'll put some lock tight on them.  I'm going to call around some more to find out how to remove the trim... I know I'll need to do it someday.

    Thanks for the help!

    Ron

  15. Posted · Report reply

    On 3/12/2017 at 5:57 PM, -Gramps- said:

    If you intend to make the cable repair yourself  you will need a pair of  bolt cutters and a swagging/crimping tool. I carry both with me all the time and six repair kits. I have not had to use one to make a repair for a couple of years now. When you get ready to make the repair, I can be available if you need me, I have done it a bunch of times until I had the standoffs adjusted correctly, then the cable fraying stopped. 

     

    14 inch bolt cutters 

    swagging/ferrule crimping tool

    AccuSlide website with how to videos.

     

     

     

     

    Gramps,

    Thanks for the offer!  I will probably check in here as I start the effort.  I ordered the repair kits and they are scheduled to arrive on Thursday, so will work on it Friday or Saturday.  My main issue is finding the proper crimping tool.  I'm in West Texas right now and tried a couple of places, but no joy.  I'll be in Waco in a couple of days and there is a Home Depot there... will give them a try.  I've watched all the videos and download the documentation.  I think I'm ready (famous last words).

    One question... the crimping tools I've seen online have a 1/8" and 3/16" notch, but the cable is 5/32".  Do you use the 1/8" notch?

    I called Monaco today and they said that the trim is put on with pin nails.  They recommended removing them slowly and carefully so they can be reused.  I plan on reinstalling  with Velcro.  My guess is that this is not the last time I'll need access to the motor and cables.

    I really appreciate the help!

    Ron

  16. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, -Gramps- said:

    The motor and cables are over the top of the slideout cabinets, inside the trim around the opening in the coach, not underneath the drawers. Unfortunately the picture does not show the top trim over the slideout. I have the same slide and my trim has a fabric insert which is held on with velcro, remove that and you see the motor, and the chain drive the cables are connected to.  This is only a guess but I suspect you may have to remove the medallions on each end of the top trim to gain access. A better picture with the ceiling line showing,  could help to verify that.  

    Gramps,

    I think you've got it, except all my trim is wood.  The picture doesn't show the top trim, which looks just like the slide trim.  I've tugged on it a bit and it looks like it's all put together with some brads/nails... which is too bad.  I pulled the slide in part way and have verified that the inside, lower right cable has broken away from the stand-outs.

    I'll have to continue to "help" the right side retract until I get this fixed.  It appears that they make a cable replacement kit to repair the problem.  I'm not going to remove the trim until I have the kit... only want to do it once.  When I replace it, I'm going to try reassembling the wood using velcro to make the next repair easier.

    I'll post the results once I get it done.

    Thanks to all who replied!

    Ron

  17. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, blakeloke said:

    Ron,

    Are you able to take a picture and post?  Are there drawers or cabinets where the slide is?

    Blake

    Blake,

    I've attached an old photo of the slide.  I'm not sure if it helps much... if there is something particular that you would need, let me know.

    Thanks,

    Ron

    new-2009-monaco-cayman_38pkq--6169-4834026-15-400.jpg

  18. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, hermanmullins said:

    Ron,

    Our Dynasty has some access to the slide mechanism under the bed. You have to lift the bed and then remove the panel on the box. It is secured by several screws. However I have never done anything other than looked.

    Herman

    Herman,

    Thanks.  This slide is on the opposite side from the bed.  It is a cable slide (Accuslide).  I've got the service manual, but it doesn't tell me how to remove the wooden trim that Monaco puts on.

    Thanks!

    Ron

  19. Posted · Report reply

    My bedroom cable slide is acting up and I need to remove the wooden trim to access the mechanism.
     
    I can't seem to find any easy way to release the trim pieces... do I have to pull the nails loose to take them off?
     
    I really don't want to destroy the trim... but can't seem to find another way.

    Anyone done this before?

    Thanks,

    Ron

  20. Posted · Report reply

    As a final follow-up (and for other's potential benefit), we got it solved!  I found the number for Monaco Technical Support and had a great discussion with a Tech with over 30 years experience.  He said that he was 99% sure it was the Nason parking brake switch in the console on the left side.  I ordered a new one from Monaco (Mason SM-1C-66R/WP28, Monaco part number 16614841) for about $50.  They sent it overnight and I installed it that day.

    Well, it solved the problem and things have worked fine since.  It was a bit of a pain to install, as you have to remove about a dozen screws, then pull the guts out carefully (don't want to break the plastic cover), then unscrew the switch (which was on tight).  Overall, it took about an hour to get it done.

    Thanks for everyone's help!  Hope it helps the next guy!

    Ron

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Just for closure... Monaco Technical Support got back to me today.  They helped me locate the Lippert leveling control module on the curbside bay, nearly under the refrigerator, attached to the roof of the bay.  It's wired between the parking brake/leveling control on the left cockpit and the pump on the driver side rear.

    We suspect that either the parking brake switch has a poor/loose ground or the switch itself is going bad.  I'm going to pull it out of the cockpit in the next few days and check it out.

    Thanks for all the help.

    Ron

  22. Posted · Report reply

    20 hours ago, abyrd said:

    My 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor has always retracted the jacks automatically when the ignition switch in the RUN position, (regardless of parking brake position)  brakes will not automatically retract when in the ACC position,  switch must be in ACC position to raise and lower jacks.

     

    Mine must be different.  The manual indicates that I have to "air up" before retracting the jacks... which I've done for the last 7 years with this coach.  If you don't, you are likely to pop the windshield out.

    Thanks,

    Ron

  23. Posted · Report reply

    12 hours ago, Dickandlois said:

    Ron, The best information would come from Monaco. Your coach is equipped with air actuated park brakes, so I think there has to be a air operated switch connected to the output side of the park valve. So it could be right under or around the dash area. A loose connection on the ground connection at the switch, at the chassis grounding point or at the LCI control board.

    There is one post where the ground wire was to small and caused a similar issue. 

    Rich.

    I'll pull the panel and try to locate the park valve.  Will the LCI control board be located near the valve?  I've looked in all the usually places that hold most electronic components.

    Hopefully, Monaco gets back to me soon.  They use to have a technical support phone number, but now you have to submit a message through their website... not nearly as good.

    Thanks,
    Ron

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Over the past couple of weeks, my jacks have twice retracted immediately when I turn the ignition key to "on".  I contacted Lippert and they said that the system is automatically retracting the jacks because it thinks the parking brakes are not "on".  This is part of their "Drive Away Protection System".  The only problem is... my parking brakes were on!  They said the system identifies the parking brake status based upon a "ground switch" from the parking brake.

    Does anyone know where I can find the sensor for my parking brake or probable locations of the Lippert electronics?  I've reached out to Monaco, but haven't heard anything back.

    Thanks,

    Ron

    2009 Monaco Cayman 38PKQ 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, BillAdams said:

    All antennas have some form of limitation as designed for RV's.  Even the Winegard Trav'ler for Dish!  This antenna is setup for Western Arc satellites only and cannot be converted to EA.  It does have an option for using the 72 satellite only which has all the EA programming but not local Network programming is available.

    brocki, you are going to need to run 2 separate coax cables from ground dome style antenna to the 2 separate receivers whether it is Dish or DirecTV.  With DirecTV you will be SD only but you can watch any channel on any receiver.  With Dish you will get HD but both receivers must be watching programming coming from the same satellite.  That's not usually a problem but it can jump up and bite you from time to time.

    I agree.  As with most things, you have to balance cost, convenience and features.  I think that if I really needed two receivers in my coach, I would look at having two Pathfinder X2s.  It would only be about $400 apiece (on Amazon), still cheaper than a Travel'r, and they would be moveable to a clear locations.  However, in over a year of full-timing, we've only had a couple of times that it would have been nice to have two receivers.  We can almost always can work out a combination of satellite, OTA and cable that gets the job done.

    Good discussion!

     

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