RonaldNC

Ron, I'm not sure it's an exact match to what you need, but here is where I bought it in Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trane-45-12-5Mfd-440V-Rnd-Run-Cap-OEM-CPT0688/381974411981?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3Dd100968a6f0e496385b8a2d0ef495102%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D372557506355%26itm%3D381974411981%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2509164&_trksid=p2509164.c100903.m5276 It's a 440 volt, instead of 330 volt... but that's okay. It is physically larger than the original, but I found a spot above the fan to attach it. Just used some really strong two-sided padded tape to hold it there. The other option is to buy two separate capacitors (In my case a 45 Mfd and 12.5 Mfd) and do a little rewiring. I didn't like that option, but it would also work. If you need more help, just email me. Good luck, Ron

I had a similar problem a couple of months ago. Everything looked good... but the compressor wouldn't come on. Per the service manual, I tested the start/run capacitor and it was bad. I bought a new one (hard to find) and now it starts/runs like a champ. Unfortunately, you'll need to get on the roof to check it. If you can't... call a service tech. If you need the service manual and parts manual, I would be happy to email it to you. Just send me your email address. Good luck, Ron

My 2009 Monaco Cayman also has the cage as a stock item (I bought it new). Interestingly, on mine, the two forward nuts are welded to the frame, but the two rear tabs attach with a loose bolt and nut through a hole in the frame. You may consider that option rather than welding to the frame. I love having it back there... but it is a pain when accessing the oil and fuel filter. Good luck! Ron

Keith, This happened to me once after a slide repair. Mechanic came out and discovered that my fluid was low. He put in a half quart of fluid and the jacks retracted perfectly. Sometimes it can be the simple things. If not that, you need to determine if the pump is running. If not, then look for electrical solutions, as suggested by the other posts. If the pump is running, then you have a hydraulic issue. Either way, give Lippert a call. They have been very helpful to me with technical support. Ron

Yes, I bought my coach new. However, it was a show model that had about 8,000 miles on it. When I get some time, I'll pull the wiring diagrams and see if something was rigged "special" for the shows. It doesn't bother me a lot, as I know what it does. Interestingly, I didn't know about this until about two years ago. I got in to start the coach when it was in storage and it wouldn't start. I checked everything around the dash... transmission, park brake, clicked the key on and off, etc. My wife asked it the "orange button" needed to be pushed, as I usually did that upon entering the coach so I could turn the lights on. I told her "no" and that it didn't matter. After a few minutes, I thought "what the heck" and hit the button... of course, the coach fired right up. My wife has never let me live it down ever since. My challenge will be to find where they cross wired it to not let the coach start... Ron

Herman, I hear you.... however, I just tested my coach and it won't start with the salesman switch off. I turn it off... won't start... turn it on... it starts. Not all Monaco models are alike. I think it might be powering/un-powering some other solenoid??? Mike and I have even found some differences between our supposedly identical coaches. I have two high powered breakers in my battery compartment... he has one. I don't always understand why there are differences... but "it is, what it is"! Thanks for all the help! Ron

Thanks Brett! Interestingly, he has no power to the Allison shift selector. According to his manual's trouble shooting diagram, that may mean that a 10 amp "engine fuse" in his rear electric distribution box may be blown. Ron

Brett, You are almost always right... but not in this case. LOL! My model (the Monaco version of the OP's) won't start with the battery cut-off switch (salesman switch) off. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but I've confirmed it many times... when I forget to turn it on. I've spoken to the OP (Mike) on the phone and his problem is a bit bewildering. Everything in the coach works and he can start his generator just fine. There is just no power to the chassis/motor/transmission. He's checked the batteries, battery switches, high-powered breakers, solenoid, etc. Everything thing worked fine when he parked it in his storage garage. He's been plugged in the whole time. He hadn't worked on it while in storage. Truly a mystery! Is there some other potential point of failure that is possible between the battery and the chassis? We're stumped. I told him to call Monaco technical support on Monday, as they have been pretty useful to me in figuring out problems. Ron

Yes, that's the one. It turns off all the power, except refrigerator and a couple of other things. Mine won't start without that turned on. You should hear some clicking of the relays in the front left area of the coach when you turn on or off. You can tell if it's on when the internal lights work. If it fails, then it's likely the solenoid in the battery compartment... which has gone bad on me twice since I've owned my coach. Again, if we need to get on the phone to discuss... I'm happy to. Ron

You can start the engine with the jacks down and the slides out... do it all the time. Based on what you've written, I'm feeling it's the salesman switch or the solenoid that it controls in the battery compartment. What you describe is what I experience in mine when that is the problem. Ron

I have the Monaco equivalent of your coach. Make sure that you have the "salesman switch" on left side of the entry door panel turned on. It's the orange one. Also, make sure that you are in neutral. These are mistake that I make every so often. If you need wiring diagrams, manuals, etc... let me know. We can exchange phone numbers if that helps. Ron

Hmmm... I removed the decorative medallions, but it didn't allow me access to the ribbed inserts. I've got it all buttoned up now, so will have to wait for a later occasion. Everything seems to be working good now. Thanks for all your help! Ron

Gramps, I didn't have any trouble removing the two inch strip... it was just attached with two-sided tape. What gave me trouble was accessing the place where the cable attaches to the slide. My is also covered with wood, but I couldn't remove it. How do you access the cable end? Ron

Okay... got good news and bad news. I bought all the tools, replacement cables, etc. I removed the top layer of trim above the slide and could access the motor and cable. However, I couldn't remove the bottom layer of trim that provides easier access to the cables. There are three long screws that attach it to the ceiling... got two out, but not the third. I'll have to wait until I get access to an "easy out" or a cutter wheel. I also can not figure out how to remove the side trim on the slide itself (to provide access to the cable ends). Very frustrating!!! Now the good news. To my surprise, I found that none of the cables are broken!!! They were just so loose that they felt broken on the sides. The cable adjusters were all nearly falling out. I tightened the adjustors (which was difficult without all the trim off) and the slides work great now. When I get better access, I'll put some lock tight on them. I'm going to call around some more to find out how to remove the trim... I know I'll need to do it someday. Thanks for the help! Ron

Gramps, Thanks for the offer! I will probably check in here as I start the effort. I ordered the repair kits and they are scheduled to arrive on Thursday, so will work on it Friday or Saturday. My main issue is finding the proper crimping tool. I'm in West Texas right now and tried a couple of places, but no joy. I'll be in Waco in a couple of days and there is a Home Depot there... will give them a try. I've watched all the videos and download the documentation. I think I'm ready (famous last words). One question... the crimping tools I've seen online have a 1/8" and 3/16" notch, but the cable is 5/32". Do you use the 1/8" notch? I called Monaco today and they said that the trim is put on with pin nails. They recommended removing them slowly and carefully so they can be reused. I plan on reinstalling with Velcro. My guess is that this is not the last time I'll need access to the motor and cables. I really appreciate the help! Ron

Gramps, I think you've got it, except all my trim is wood. The picture doesn't show the top trim, which looks just like the slide trim. I've tugged on it a bit and it looks like it's all put together with some brads/nails... which is too bad. I pulled the slide in part way and have verified that the inside, lower right cable has broken away from the stand-outs. I'll have to continue to "help" the right side retract until I get this fixed. It appears that they make a cable replacement kit to repair the problem. I'm not going to remove the trim until I have the kit... only want to do it once. When I replace it, I'm going to try reassembling the wood using velcro to make the next repair easier. I'll post the results once I get it done. Thanks to all who replied! Ron

Blake, I've attached an old photo of the slide. I'm not sure if it helps much... if there is something particular that you would need, let me know. Thanks, Ron

Herman, Thanks. This slide is on the opposite side from the bed. It is a cable slide (Accuslide). I've got the service manual, but it doesn't tell me how to remove the wooden trim that Monaco puts on. Thanks! Ron

My bedroom cable slide is acting up and I need to remove the wooden trim to access the mechanism. I can't seem to find any easy way to release the trim pieces... do I have to pull the nails loose to take them off? I really don't want to destroy the trim... but can't seem to find another way. Anyone done this before? Thanks, Ron

As a final follow-up (and for other's potential benefit), we got it solved! I found the number for Monaco Technical Support and had a great discussion with a Tech with over 30 years experience. He said that he was 99% sure it was the Nason parking brake switch in the console on the left side. I ordered a new one from Monaco (Mason SM-1C-66R/WP28, Monaco part number 16614841) for about $50. They sent it overnight and I installed it that day. Well, it solved the problem and things have worked fine since. It was a bit of a pain to install, as you have to remove about a dozen screws, then pull the guts out carefully (don't want to break the plastic cover), then unscrew the switch (which was on tight). Overall, it took about an hour to get it done. Thanks for everyone's help! Hope it helps the next guy! Ron

Just for closure... Monaco Technical Support got back to me today. They helped me locate the Lippert leveling control module on the curbside bay, nearly under the refrigerator, attached to the roof of the bay. It's wired between the parking brake/leveling control on the left cockpit and the pump on the driver side rear. We suspect that either the parking brake switch has a poor/loose ground or the switch itself is going bad. I'm going to pull it out of the cockpit in the next few days and check it out. Thanks for all the help. Ron

Mine must be different. The manual indicates that I have to "air up" before retracting the jacks... which I've done for the last 7 years with this coach. If you don't, you are likely to pop the windshield out. Thanks, Ron

I'll pull the panel and try to locate the park valve. Will the LCI control board be located near the valve? I've looked in all the usually places that hold most electronic components. Hopefully, Monaco gets back to me soon. They use to have a technical support phone number, but now you have to submit a message through their website... not nearly as good. Thanks, Ron

Over the past couple of weeks, my jacks have twice retracted immediately when I turn the ignition key to "on". I contacted Lippert and they said that the system is automatically retracting the jacks because it thinks the parking brakes are not "on". This is part of their "Drive Away Protection System". The only problem is... my parking brakes were on! They said the system identifies the parking brake status based upon a "ground switch" from the parking brake. Does anyone know where I can find the sensor for my parking brake or probable locations of the Lippert electronics? I've reached out to Monaco, but haven't heard anything back. Thanks, Ron 2009 Monaco Cayman 38PKQ

I agree. As with most things, you have to balance cost, convenience and features. I think that if I really needed two receivers in my coach, I would look at having two Pathfinder X2s. It would only be about $400 apiece (on Amazon), still cheaper than a Travel'r, and they would be moveable to a clear locations. However, in over a year of full-timing, we've only had a couple of times that it would have been nice to have two receivers. We can almost always can work out a combination of satellite, OTA and cable that gets the job done. Good discussion!