mikemopar

Tireman9, Here's my data for your needs. Got the four corners weighed a while back but it should be all the same today. It was done by a vendor called "A'Weigh We Go" which gave me a good idea of my weight distribution. All the capacities were at about 80% to 90% and all the personal gear was on board. Class A, 18,000 GVWR (1999 Ford F53) Ratings RF= 3,640# LF= 3,640# RR= 6,830# (2 x 3,415#) LR= 6,830# (2 x 3,415#) Load Measurements RF = 2,810# LF = 3,100# RR = 5,110# LR = 5,240# 16,260# Although not really a part of this subject I have always had a question regarding the rear air bags on my rig. The way they are set up is each bag has a it's seperate air pressure (Air stem). Is there a benefit to connect them together where the air pressures are equal?? Maybe someone can shed light. Thanks Mike

morganski2002 As you see a LCD TV from Best Buy or Costco will do just fine. I replaced the front and rear TV's in our 1999 Rexhall Arebus and have had no problems. I had to do many modifications to the box's just as TBUTLER did. There are important things to be aware of before you choose the TV. Questions are - How will you mount it? Where are the TV controls? Will they be accessible after its installed? How is the TV constructed for mounting? Can you drill any holes for mounts? Where are the speakers (you don't want to cover them up)? You may find that the best way to mount your new LCD TV is all totally custom work, no store bought easy bracket to get. In my case after modifying/reducing the original overhead box I flush mounted the LCD TV. On the Samsung LCD we purchased I was able to drill holes in four corners of the front plastic frame to mount. Actually very solid, better than the original TV we had. Left a little open area on the bottom because the speakers on the Samsung are on the bottom. On our rear TV, being only a 19" VIZIO LCD, I used a Articulating Wall Arm. Not as solid because we need to strap it secured when retracted during travel, but serves it purpose giving better viewing positions and didn't have to worry about the controls and speaker locations. Anyway there's a few things to think about. Mike

Tom, Your intirely correct when you say you have to enjoy the journey. This question on if the Cummings 300 is enough to "comfortably" tow a 7500lb trailer is a step to enjoying the journey.I saw a post for a 32' Itaska w/ the 300 Cummings and they advertised it to have a 10,000 lb tow capicity. Although I question that to be a comfortable tow.I own the Dodge CTD PU that does most all of the towing of the boat on our trips but we want to go cross country and would like the option of taking the RV. The PU isn't effected on those 6% grades with the load. In fact I can hold 60mph everywhere, even after getting behind that 1973 Winny doing 25mph I can pass and recover back to 60mph in no time.Maybe I should re-state my question in asking, What do you have? How does it perform on a grade?What I have is;1999 30' Rexhall Arebus, ford V-10 w/BanksOn a 5% or 6% grade50MPH in 3rd gear by itself45MPH in 2nd gear towing the PT Cruiser40MPH in 2nd gear towing a 3500lb boat30-35MPH in 2nd gear towing a 7500lb boat, and creating alot of HEAT!Mike

I Agree with Gary, those round connectors have been around for ages but in my experiences have bee the problem 9 times out of ten. I have seen corrosion set in connecting the polls and shorting out. My maintenance tip would be to clean the connections, dab a little of loctite on the tiny screws and coat with a DI-electric grease. Or what I do is replace it with a flat four connector. Mike

I’m in the market to purchase a 32’ diesel pusher to replace our 1999 30’ Arebus w/Ford V-10. We’re looking close at the used 32’ Itasca Meridian’s or similar which are usually equipped with the 300HP Cummings. We want to tow our 26’ (7500GVW) boat but questions have risen if the 300HP Cummings can make the grade. Would anyone have experience with this type of rig and its towing capacity? What may I expect on a 5 or 6% grade? Mike F271642