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tireman9

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    Akron, OH
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    Genealogy, Travel out West. Tires
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  1. Got a question on China-made tires on an RV forum. Tireman, In a Post, you commented on not expecting long life performance out of the lowest priced tires. There seems to be something in all of the reports for "China Bombs" in that there are a lot of reported failures. Is the hype bigger than the problem? Should well maintained OEM tires last better than what is being reported? Is it your assessment that the seemingly high percentage of failures is due to the OEM tires being cheap, low-cost tires? Sailun tires seem to have a good reputation, even though they are China tires. So it would seem that it's really just an issue of quality of the build. A good tire is a good tire, regardless of where it's made? In general, I would consider steel body tires, like many Sailun items, "Commercial" grade, be they LT or ST type and as such I would expect them to perform better than lighter duty tires (both ST & LT type). A problem with "reports" of failures is that almost no owners have the knowledge or training necessary to properly identify the real cause for failure. So while there may be a dozen reports of "Blowouts", there could be a dozen different root cause reasons. Some might even not be tire related cause but valve or wheel failure or pothole or 10d nail through the sidewall. RE quality. All tires sold in the US are required to be certified by the manufacturer to be capable of passing Federal Regulations. If tires do not pass a test (random selection by DOT) or if there are sufficient complaints to get the attention of NHTSA they might initiate an investigation. If it is found that tires do not pass the required testing then a recall might be ordered and recalls would include all tires made since the last tire that passed the test was made. This could be many thousand tires. There are also fines. So this is something tire companies really do not want to have happened. I have written a number of times on my blog about "China" tires and how I disagree with the concept which I liken to claiming that RVs made in Indiana are bad because most of the complaints or problem reports are about RVs built in Indiana. __________________ Retired Tire Design Engineer
  2. tireman9

    Testing TPMS

    Is there anyone else having this problem of being asked to pay to view my RV Tire Blog? I can't fix the problem if I can't identify it.
  3. tireman9

    Testing TPMS

    Could you explain the "Batteries are over 50% of a new sensor" comment? The batteries on my TireTraker TPMS run less than $2 for the name brand CR1632 Lithium. Amazon has some less than $1 each New sensors run $35 TST sensors are listed for $47.50 and they use the same CR1632 batteries.
  4. tireman9

    Testing TPMS

    You do not have to pay for my blog or links. Simply entering www.RVTireSafety.net as the URL of interest gets you to my blog. No membership required to read any of the 300+ posts. When I provide a hot link to a blog post on this forum clicking on it should take you to the post of interest. Who told you that you had to pay? Maybe I am missing out on some income 😄
  5. I was asked about Pirelli as a brand. They are an older European tire company. Based on sales we can find they are #6 on THIS list. Don't forget there are many brands owned by one of these larger corporations. For example, Firestone & Dayton are owned by Bridgestone. Dunlop & Kelly are owned by Goodyear etc. A quick check of Wikipedia for the tire brand of interest will get you the company history. You will find that the "smaller" brands many times are made in the same plant. with some of the same materials on the same or similar equipment and designed by the same engineers as the "Big" name corporation tires. You can look at the range of type tires to get a feel for their area of knowledge. Now you probably wanted some nice "Hard" comparison like Brand X is 5% better than brand Z. Sorry but that information is not available or realistic as at any point in time Your size and type may be of the latest design from one company but 3 years old at a different company. Also, remember that tire specifications are constantly being "tweaked" with improvements. I did a post about Tire Comparison Reviews on my blog that may help you understand why it is impossible to provide a current comparison that would cover multiple sizes and multiple designs.
  6. tireman9

    Testing TPMS

    I don't remember being asked about TPMS reading changing from new. Many first-time TPMS users get a little concerned about the pressure or temperature difference, but I have pointed out that TPMS companies claim +/- a few percent accuracy, which I consider acceptable, as you should be setting your COLD pressure using your hand gauge that you have confirmed against your own "Master Gauge". Richard, Are all your readings different from when the system was new? I would be surprised to see all 6 sensors all change a similar amount and would be more suspect of your main gauge. How do you store your main gauge? Do you use it all the time when setting pressure? Is it sitting in the bottom of your toolbox? What about your "back-up"? You should have one gauge, your "Master" that you only use to check against your day to day gauge. The less often you use a gauge the less likely it will go out of calibration. I depend on my TPMS for my "daily" pressure check. I only use my hand gauge when actually adjusting (adding air). My "Master" gauge is ONLY used when I suspect some problem with my hand gauge or I get some strange readings.
  7. "Zipper" failures are specifically identified in the tire industry condition manual as the sidewall failure due to the tire being run significantly under-inflated. This is the result of steel fatigue due to excessive flexing. This is the same mechanism used to "break" a paper-clip by bending back and forth.
  8. richard5933 is correct He gets a Gold star for doing the homework and knowing the correct answer.😄
  9. Let's see An ST235/85R16 LR-E is rated 3,640# while a commercial truck 225/70R19.5 LR-E is good for 3,195# @80 psi and the LR-F at 95 is rated 3,640 But LR-G @110 psi is rated for 3,970# This post is about trailer application. If considering the change IMO the brake performance would be a little better just from the increased clearance and cooling. I saw this in my race car. BUT if you are looking for more load capacity "Reserve Load" then yes just be sure to get the LR-G and run 110psi. Don't forget all you are gaining is tire reserve load and not more load capacity for the RV.
  10. Not sure if I understand your comment. Are you saying that if you change (increase) wheel diameter you will need to also change the brake system? or are you saying that an increase in wheel diameter will result in improved brake performance due to better cooling?
  11. tireman9

    Testing TPMS

    I have been reading on a few RV forums of people having problems with their TPMS. Readings of 400 psi or 220. It looks like many of the problems of TPMS can be traced to old batteries or maybe poor TPM maintenance. I have a blog post on Testing your TPMS. If you don't do this at least once a year you might end up with a malfunction.
  12. I have covered this in a few different posts on my blog but to put it all in one place. Generally, tire life for Bus and HD truck is based on wear, not time, as these vehicles may drive 50 to 100,000 miles a year with the tires wearing out at 50 to 80,000 miles. Daily drivers (cars & P/U) drive about 12,000 a year and may get 3 to 5 years life again most based on wearing out. With RV (Trailer & Motorhome) mileage might be as low as a few hundred miles a year to a few driving up to 20,000. BUT if you consult your owner's manuals you will probably see them point out expected life to be 3 to 5 on trailers. Motorhomes probably hit 7 to the suggested max of 10 years, again before wear-out in most cases. The primary reason for the earlier "end of life" on trailers is the result of the unique radial belt shear forces identified in the industry technical papers as "Interply Shear" that comes from a combination of tires being dragged rather than steered around corners and tires "fighting" each other when going around corners as the tires on different axles are not all rotating around the same center of the turn. It is the Interply Shear that initiates the cracks between the belts and accelerated the crack growth that can end up as a belt separation before the tires wear out. The interply Shear damage is augmented by damage from improper (low) inflation, improper (high) load and in some cases, excess heat due to speeds higher than the basic design called for.
  13. short answer is yes as long as the compressor can generate a pressure above the pressure needed.
  14. "Operated" would normally mean driven on. BUT It is also possible to not drive at all and have a dangerous situation if you try and reinflate. A tire is OK when you park it but after checking the air pressure the Rv is parked for a few weeks but the valve core was leaking so the tire lost all its air. This would probably kink the steel body ply which could lead to a "Zipper" failure when re-inflated. Sorry, but there are not always simple answers to what seems to be a simple question. You do know that the paper clip is simply an example of how fatigue can fail steel when simply tension loading does not.
  15. I did a post on making your own air dryer with parts from Harbor Freight. Be sure the desiccant is rated for the air pressure you need. Some are only good for 50 or 90 psi. There is a 150 psi unit on eBay
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