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    Akron, OH
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    Genealogy, Travel out West. Tires
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  1. Just a reminder to stop in at my RV tire Seminars at FMCA Int'l Conventions. Current plans include Minot, ND and in 2020 Tuscon and Syracuse. I have a "Basic Knowledge" seminar aimed at everyone. Plus one especially for those that tow any kind of trailer. For those really interested in learning the nuts and bolts on tire failure. -- Think CSI for tire failures -- I offer an "Advanced Tire Seminar. All are free and I am more than happy to answer any tire, valve or TPMS related questions.
  2. NHTSA does have a list of tire "complaints" Remember that some/many complaints may have nothing to do with the actual quality of the subject tire but may be a complaint based on a tire not being able to function because of external damage such as puncture or overload or under-inflation.
  3. I have a post on how to soften the blow to your wallet when confronted with changing tires that focuses on keeping the best tires on the front when all tires are the same size. I do agree that if there is a significant difference in the fronts I would consider changing the pair. If one tire still looks OK you can always sell it locally
  4. tireman9

    tire covers

    To clarify my findings. For covers that fit right over a tire that are a solid material like vinyl; White would be preferred as we are primarily concerned with keeping the heat down as increased temperature can "bake" the life out of a tire structure. I understand that people have been talking about UV protection for years but other than ugly surface cracking, I don't recall seeing an actual tire disablement (coming apart) because of UV but have seen numerous tire belt separations and failures due to excess heat. However, if you are hanging a shield off the side of the RV as seen in the pictures above then even a black mesh is OK as this type of shield allows good air circulation between the mesh shade and the tire. I base my recommendations on Science and data. I measured temperature and posted the numbers on my blog. For the flat "shields" I collected data while at REDMOND, OR from a number of Class-A RV with that type of shield. Not sure if I would claim black is "better" than white as we are talking about two different types of shields. At Indianapolis, IN I did a test on "Shade-Pro" brand mesh shields and found they delivered equivalent heat protection.
  5. Not sure how to answer the OP question. I spent a good portion of my career trying to develop tires to meet the various targets from different car companies. One challenge was to get a list that prioritized the different goals when many times the customer considered all targets to be equally important. One problem is that without doing a direct comparison of two different tires on the same vehicle, it is almost impossible to do a "clean" comparison. You might read http://www.rvtiresafety.net/2019/05/why-no-tire-reviews.html to get a better appreciation of the problem.
  6. tireman9

    New Tires

    I am not aware of any technical reason to have valves at 180 degrees as long as the hand hole is large enough to allow easy access and to allow grasping the valve or valve extension so as to not overload the valve mount in the wheel. I would be surprised if the balance was compromised out of spec. jlemont's list is good one but be careful with the oil near the lug nut as lubricating the threads could cause over-torquing the lugnut as I covered in my blog post.
  7. While I don't have a Class-A, other than the length, I'm not sure if any one system is significantly better than another. As long as the system you buy can handle the total number of tires on your coach + toad AND is rated for your tire pressure. Warranty length and service may be the only meaningful difference between some units. I have done what I think is the only direct real-life comparison of internal vs external system back in 2018 and published the results on my blog. But some general observations and comments. IMO User-replaceable batteries are a plus. You can confirm the battery P/N before purchase and check at a grocery store or at Home Depot or Lowes for both price & availability but most are under $2 each and last 1 to 2 years depending on use. I have found that after 8 to 18 months use, low battery power may contribute to a dropped signal. My solution is to mark the install month year date with Sharpie. I do like a system with long (Lifetime?) warranty and one that actually has the dealer/distributor attend RV conventions as that means they have people that are not just selling "widgets" on Amazon and probably have a telephone, email, and website. RE: Repeater. I have listened to the "sales-pitch" from a number of different vendors at FMCA Convention and most will ask about the type & length of coach and offer suggestion to get a repeater or not but I also note that some will offer to send a repeater for just the cost of the repeater if you discover you need one later. Others just include a repeater with all sales just ask and see what they say or offer. Alarms going off. I have a blog post on how I set my TPMS and haven't had any false alarms with the TireTraker system I purchased in 2009 (I did upgrade to the TT500 in 2018 after I killed the original TT400 monitor by connecting the wrong charger to it. My error not TT) I have found I do not need a power cord to the monitor on the dash as a single overnight charge is good for weeks of daytime use. I do shut off the monitor each evening. In the morning I turn it on again and by the time I am done with my coffee all 6 sensors have sent in the baseline pressure so I get a fresh "cold" pressure reading just to keep an eye on things. Do not be confused with the time to establish a signal. As far as I know, sensors only send a signal once every 8 to 15 minutes to conserve battery life. They also will send a Low-Pressure warning within 2 to 4 seconds. Read the literature or ask the dealer to learn what your system timing is. Maintenance: I do run a "test" every year to confirm the sensors are still reporting air loss in the first few seconds. The post also covers spare parts I keep on hand.
  8. If changing the tire size on any RV where you have "Dual" tires on an axle (two tires next to each other on the end of one axle) Be sure to check the specification for "Minimum Dual Spacing". If you go with tires that are wider there is a possibility they might touch which in extreme cases can lead to tire failure. Here is a post from my RV Tire blog specifically on this safety concern. There are some other posts on "Dual" tires and proper matching you might want to at least review so you have a little better understanding.
  9. tireman9

    New Tire Balancing

    I agree with Brett. 1. be sure your runout is good. Remember it is possible to balance a cinder block but it would not give a good ride 2. It is possible to have a wheel & tire in good balance but the hub & brake drum could be out so you could spend lots of time and $ re-balancing the tire off the RV and never solve the problem. 3. "Beads" Some tire companies say their warranty is void if you put anything inside the tire 4. The possible downside to variable balance systems such as beads and other bolt-on balancers. Assume for a moment you have a tire that starts to develop a belt separation. You hopefully would get an early warning of vibration feel in the steering wheel. With internal balancing or bolt-on balancer the tire is "re-balanced" every time you startup. This could possibly mask the vibration from the belt separation.
  10. tireman9


    Brett is correct. Guess he has been paying attention and reading my posts and RVTireSafety blog. 😎 Trailer application definitely places different and higher belt shear forces than when placed on a motorhome or tow vehicle. Probably would have been better for this post to be in the Trailer thread. I could not quickly find info on the actual construction of the HS3 but would assume it is "all steel" as are most other "Commercial" tires. This construction and other features seem to result in longer durability than the standard Polyester/steel seen on LT and St type tires. Continental is a German company. You can learn more HERE.
  11. With deep tread you should be able to get a good trade in price on those tires. There are many local applications that chew up tires in local driving that could use these tires. But the bottom line for over the highway use puts a 10 year max life for RV use.
  12. I understand the concept of the systems that "balance" the inflation on a set of duals. As a tire design engineer, I also know that proper inflation is important however I am not aware of any controlled testing that shows any advantage for better durability if the tires are linked so that the air pressure is constantly matched. I note that some have posted that they use TPMS which is a very good thing to do. If you are attaching a TPM sensor to one of these systems you do need to pay attention to the low-pressure warning as the "sharing" of air might delay the warning of air loss being made to the driver.
  13. Got a question on China-made tires on an RV forum. Tireman, In a Post, you commented on not expecting long life performance out of the lowest priced tires. There seems to be something in all of the reports for "China Bombs" in that there are a lot of reported failures. Is the hype bigger than the problem? Should well maintained OEM tires last better than what is being reported? Is it your assessment that the seemingly high percentage of failures is due to the OEM tires being cheap, low-cost tires? Sailun tires seem to have a good reputation, even though they are China tires. So it would seem that it's really just an issue of quality of the build. A good tire is a good tire, regardless of where it's made? In general, I would consider steel body tires, like many Sailun items, "Commercial" grade, be they LT or ST type and as such I would expect them to perform better than lighter duty tires (both ST & LT type). A problem with "reports" of failures is that almost no owners have the knowledge or training necessary to properly identify the real cause for failure. So while there may be a dozen reports of "Blowouts", there could be a dozen different root cause reasons. Some might even not be tire related cause but valve or wheel failure or pothole or 10d nail through the sidewall. RE quality. All tires sold in the US are required to be certified by the manufacturer to be capable of passing Federal Regulations. If tires do not pass a test (random selection by DOT) or if there are sufficient complaints to get the attention of NHTSA they might initiate an investigation. If it is found that tires do not pass the required testing then a recall might be ordered and recalls would include all tires made since the last tire that passed the test was made. This could be many thousand tires. There are also fines. So this is something tire companies really do not want to have happened. I have written a number of times on my blog about "China" tires and how I disagree with the concept which I liken to claiming that RVs made in Indiana are bad because most of the complaints or problem reports are about RVs built in Indiana. __________________ Retired Tire Design Engineer
  14. tireman9

    Testing TPMS

    Is there anyone else having this problem of being asked to pay to view my RV Tire Blog? I can't fix the problem if I can't identify it.
  15. tireman9

    Testing TPMS

    Could you explain the "Batteries are over 50% of a new sensor" comment? The batteries on my TireTraker TPMS run less than $2 for the name brand CR1632 Lithium. Amazon has some less than $1 each New sensors run $35 TST sensors are listed for $47.50 and they use the same CR1632 batteries.
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