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    Akron, OH
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    Genealogy, Travel out West. Tires
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  1. Well many people do not realize that almost every car sold today includes tire comparison tests as part of the development process so to do the evaluation and development properly each Motorhome model. ( Different chassis would definitely need a special tire evaluation but most other changes would not be considered significant unless there was some significant change in tire load distribution.)
  2. Well I think that most of you missed the FLASHING RED LIGHT. A 295/80R22.5 is rated for 6,395 # at 110 psi while the 295/75R22.5 is rated for 5,675# at 110 psi. I have never been a fan of size comparison web sites as they are really intended for passenger and smaller LT tires and completely ignors load or dual spacing issues. I don't care about the speedometer error etc but I would be VERY concerned about giving up that much load capacity. It also creates a potential problem when selling the coach. How will this "Down-rating" lo load capacity be communicated or even understood by the new owner? We all know, or should know that a majority of RVs are overloading a tire or axle yet I almost never hear others jump in on such an obvious feature being overlooked.
  3. I see nothing wrong with your tire selection but wonder when did you do or see a direct comparison of different brand tires on an RV? I have yet to see the results of any such comparison done under controlled test situation. Even I can still learn.
  4. Nope, the hole in the wheel might be 0.453 or 0.625" but there are 2 different rubber gaskets involved. Unless someone installed a bolt in valve stem from a Farm Tractor application ALL tire valves for highway tires from the 10" tires on a 1965 Mini to a current 45' Class A would have the same 0.305-32 thread. Flow through caps also spec .305-32 thread. While I would not run TPM sensor on a flow thru cap as that is just another joint that could cause problems the TPM sensor should still fit on that cap. The next size up as used on tractor tires is 0.482-26 thread
  5. Sorry to hear you had problems with tires in the '70's. Why did you let your wife drive a Caddy? Don't you remember reading about how unsafe the GM '59 Corvar was? We certainly should be concerned for all our friends driving on Ford products. You do remember the problems with the Pinto catching fire. Yes my examples are a bit extreme but IMO so is suggesting that a problem with a Passenger tire designed in 1965 has similar features to a truck tire designed in 2010 is similarly extreme. FYI I understand that Firestone & Dayton 22.5" tires are made in the same tire plant in TN as are many Bridgestone tires. You can confirm by checking the DOT serial. See you in Gillette
  6. Not quite. I doubt that your motorcycle forum has discussions on how much oil you should run in your engine. 😁
  7. tireman9

    Tires Replaced

    I get a bit concerned when I read "acceptable alternative". Would be more comfortable if the ststement was more like..."The new tires have the same load capacity as the OE tires" or The new tires can carry xx% more load than the old tires. For too many people "acceptable alternative" may mean that the sidewall dimension numbers are close (but not identical) to the OE tires.
  8. Here is link to Bridgestone selection. And if you want a ref Load/Inflation table chart for all except Michelin THIS should work.
  9. OK. After you get the axle weights we would be interested to learn what your actual Reserve load is. Take care of yourself.
  10. I'm not clear on what you are asking. I believe you know the actual load on your tires. Simply calculate 135% of that load and then find the tire inflation needed to support that 135% load. You many need to go to higher Load range or a larger tire or a combination to achieve that goal. I am not aware of any regulation that prohibits you from upgrading your tires or wheels to achiever the 135% figure. Alternately you could reduce your actual load such that your tires can support 135% of that reduced load. Note. I am not saying that achieving the goal of 135% in a MH is easy given they way they are currently designed i.e. limits of tire size.
  11. Since I haven't seen the tires it's difficult to know what the issue really is. What did the Firestone dealer say when you had them inspect the tires? Can you provide some good pictures (well lit, reasonably close).
  12. See comments in RED
  13. The main difference is that cars have about 35% Reserve load capacity while most RVs are lucky if they have 10%. The placard inflation is reasonable till you confirm actual weights with scale weights. I suggest a minimum of 15% reserve load if possible. Once you know the minimum inflation for YOUR RV you should plan on adjusting as necessary when there is a change in Ambient of more than 20F which would have changed your inflation by 4%. Now if you run a 20% Reserve load as I do I can tolerate daily morning ambient changes on +/- 15F as I have a cushion built in. If I have the time and expect to run at the new Ambient I will probably adjust my morning "cold" inflation back to my goal. FYI I will be at Perry next week. two seminars on tires.
  14. One major advantage of "top tier" tires is ease of service if any issues develop. My personal preference in TireTraker with their lifetime warranty. Link on my blog shows $289 for 4 sensor and extra sensors at $35. Unlike Amazon, Walmart or eBay they even know what an RV is. They are usually at FMCA Conventions too. I cover how I set and how to test TPMS on my blog. Note I get no commission from them. The ad is placed by the owner of the blog site RVTravel.com
  15. Two things you must check when replacing tires. 1. The stated max load capacity molded on the tire sidewall. This should be stated in the tire company literature. 2. If you are not getting the identical 9not just close) size you MUST confirm the new tires have equal or greater load capacity than the old tires. Be careful with matching or higher Load Range. 3. If you change size be sure to confirm "Minimum Dual Spacing" You can learn more on dual spacing here
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