jgoubeaud@yahoo.com

Last April of 2015, I had our Hurricane replaced with a Quantum MCS 55 XLT hydronic system at Rixen's Enterprises in Sandy,OR. The Hurricane combustion chamber was completely distorted, circulation pump malfunctioned along with several other issues .The unit was in our 1999 Beaver Contessa . The new unit is now 1 year old and is an excellent upgrade since we are full-timers.It is very quiet, unlike the Hurricane. Rixen's phone # 503-668-6090

Our Norcold is failing in our 1999 Beaver Contessa; present temp is 57 degrees. Having read the above comments, I am considering going with a residential reefer. Has anyone had any problems while traveling over the road or dry camping while on inverter? We recently had a new Magnum 2000 watt inverter installed that also charges both chassis and house batteries. We live in our coach full time, mostly hooked up to power; occasionally traveling. Thanks for any info John

With regards to the above electrical issue: After replacing with BLUE SEAS solenoid, we have had no electrical shut-down issues . Now have 82,000 miles on odometer. Jjust thought I would update our situation. Thanks for the support. John #428484

I have a 99 Beaver Contessa w/ Hurricane hydronic boiler. Maybe your heat exchanger fins are plugged with dust. I cleaned mine with an air hose and now have plenty of heated air blowing out.

Brett,Herman and Rich, I located a distributor of BLUE SEAS solenoid nearby in Salem, N.H.;ordered it and received it yesterday afternoon. Installed it on coach, tested all connections and all okay. Started engine and let run awhile----- unlike other solenoid, new one stayed cool to the touch. Sometime soon we'll have to take a test run. Hopefully the issue is solved, THANKS for all the information; this FMCA forum is sure a helpful site. Thanks again, John in MA FMCA # F428484

Brett, Yes, as you stated in your last reply; When checking VOLTS, key OFF, 12 VDC to one lug on solenoid only, key ON, 12VDC to both lugs on solenoid and also small ignition wire. But when I was checking AMPS on ignition wire, multimeter showed 1 AMP current; I started engine with meter still connected, engine quit after a short time; I got out and checked 12VDC on solenoid with key still ON, 12VDC to ignition wire and only one lug on solenoid, nothing to the other. ( that signifies bad solenoid) , because ignition had 12VDC. Got back in coach and turned key OFF, then reconnected ignition wire onto solenoid , removing meter. Turned key ON again, and 12VDC showed okay on both solenoid lugs and ignition wire. Started engine and ran okay. What is going on with this solenoid? By the way, what is that small solid wire between the two small terminals on the solenoid,(ignition and ground terminals) ?

Brett,Herman and Rich, I Had a problem with multimeter--would not record any readings--thought the battery was bad, bought a new one and still no reading-- guess it's burnt out. Picked up another one, and checked volts and amps on connections. I checked amps at ignition wire and read 1 amp with key "ON". 12vdc at both large terminals on solenoid. Should the solenoid heat up a bit when engine running a while. Mine seems to get quite hot to the touch. That's what I was referring to the other day when I said jumper wire was getting warm. Is there something else to fault between the ignition switch and the solenoid? John from MA

Thanks for the response to my electrical issue ( 12 VDC ) Mr Mullins and Wolfe and Rich. We took coach out for a test drive on the 4th ; less than five minutes out, we had a total shut-down again. I got out and ran a test light to ignition wire on solenoid--NO POWER, battery lug on solenoid had POWER. Soon the solenoid clicked, my wife said all gauges were powered ON. Test light shows POWER to ignition wire, then soon it clicked OFF. Did this a few times. Got back in coach, waited a few minutes, then started engine, let it idle a bit; then continued to drive. Less than a mile down the road, shut-down again. got out-- same issues. This time I used a jumper from battery lug on solenoid (live all the time) to the small ignition wire on the solenoid. It clicked and POWER ON again. Started coach and ran it a bit, but jumper seemed to be HOT to the touch. Shut off engine at this time and waited a bit. I jumped ignition a few times in rapid succession , clicking solenoid ON an OFF . Shortly thereafter ,started the engine, idled a bit, then continued our drive, going 10 miles or so, with no problems. I seem to think the solenoid needs to be replaced. What do you gentlemen think? Mr Mullins said he had same issues, and suggested new solenoid NAPA P/N ST85 ; it should be a continuous duty solenoid---correct? Thanks again, John from MA

Thanks for the info. regarding loss of electrical power to engine/gauges. I put a test light on large terminal on solonoid which had power when key in 'off' position. With key "on", I put test light to ignition terminal [ small terminal ,left ] on solonoid and it had power along with the other large terminal on the solonoid . ran engine awhile with no faulting. I'll have to just use it and when it shuts down, test the terminals as you suggested to determine if ignition switch/wiring to switch is bad or solonoid bad. We're planning to leave late Aug. to head to olympia , WA .Thanks again for the info. Have a great summer. John and Joyce from MA.

Engine/electrical shut-down on 1999 Beaver Contessa with CAT 3126B engine 330 hp -- On three different days in the last 22 months, and travelling 16,000 miles, we have had our coach totally shut-down, all gauges quit, engine stopped running and we coasted to a stop. Bought coach in Meridian, ID with 58,400 miles on it in Sept. 2011 First shut-down in Gainesville, FL in Nov. 2011 at 62,000 miles. Second shut-down in Centralia, WA in Aug. 2012 at 69,000 miles. Third shut-down in Townsend, MA in June 2013 at 74,400 miles. In each shut-down, all gauges and engine quit. Pulled over, waited a bit, then it would restart, then stop. After several attempts, it would stay running. All connections on batteries and main terminals were cleaned at RV Performance shop in Centralia, WA. Ignition solonoid in electrical bay was replaced, as it showed some discoloration. They test drove coach and it would not fault for them. While in Boise, ID in Oct. 2012, Caterpillar dealer ran diagnostic test which showed a Key switch fault (43-2) had occured several times in the past. Does anyone have a clue as to what the problem is? Could it be a bad ignition key switch? Thanks, John from MA