kaelalynn

Thanks for suggestion, but they connections were all checked and the problem is still there ;- ( Maybe replace the sender?

The front air suspension alarm on my 2003 Damon Escaper is going off intermittently. It will drop to zero pounds and then peg out at 150 before settling down at about 125, only to repeat. It will have long periods of silence by reading the correct pressure. The noise is very unsettling for one of my dogs! Suggestions on where to start looking or what parts to switch out would be very welcome.

Thanks to everyone for the replies! Wife had surgery; everything is fine but I've been too busy to review and thank everyone, so a big thanks! Getting a little free time, so I'll be checking out all the suggestions and getting ready for a long summer. Departure date is not targeted for April 26.

Just got in and sat down; wanted to say thanks again for all the responses and I see several I'll checking into. I want a working solution before we head out in April or May. Thanks again to all!!! Chucik

Desertdeals69, that sounds great, but I’m afraid I might be just a little too dumb to handle all that technology. I just used my phone to take my first picture the day before yesterday … well, maybe it was a little before that, but not by much ;- ) But it is good to know that it can be accomplished if I get determined enough. I’m guessing he had to wire some kind of module into each of those items? Thanks, Chuck

Brett, I will check on this solution. Seems like a good answer if it will work on our rig. I found a camera that also has a temp function, but your solution is better … maybe both. Thanks, Chuck

Ziggyh, the genset has toggle switches on the dash, bedroom, and on the genset. I’ll try and check into this solution. Thanks, Chuck

Brett thanks for your response. We’re not trying to keep the temp from becoming excessive because I don’t see a simple way to do that by remote control; we just want to find a way to know that it is rising or the electric is shut down so the AC have stopped. If we knew that we could return to the MH before they fry or phone for help. I’m thinking, as I said in the post to Koen, a camera, thermometer, and phone combo might be the answer, but your post made me add a step … light bulbs. If we left two lights on that were in view of the camera, we would also have a strong indication if the electric was on or off, whereas the thermometer would tend to be slow show the increase. Our rig is a 2003 40’ Damon Escaper MH with a Onan 7500 genset. I’m not familiar with an auto start for the generator. I didn’t even know the animal existed or how hard or expensive it would be to get, but worth checking into. Thanks!

Thanks Keon for the feedback! I don’t think I can put our dogs fate in the hands of the park help. Some are dependable and some not so much. Also their standard answer will likely be, “the dogs can’t be left alone.” I’m think the answer might be, as you suggested, wifi, camera, phone combo, but I’m not sure how to go about it. I’m definitely tech handicapped ;- ( I’m considering trying to find a way to focus a camera on a thermometer so we can phone in and look at the temp every hour or so. My AC units don’t seem to be the problem unless the parks voltage isn’t all that dependable. Rarely does it trip a breaker, but it does happen often. We also had the park grid go down a few times. Fortunately, we always there with the dogs or they were with us in the car. We don’t normally close off a room as you suggested because we’re afraid the one AC might fail. We usually turn down the ACs so the compressors don’t cycle on an off as much to decrease the draw on the system. I’m not sure if turning both down or running one full speed is best. Remember we’re talking about temps being over 100 degrees in a ten box. We leave them, we sure not to be gone to long, and that sure cuts on our ability to explore the area we’re in. Chuck

We have two dogs that are left in our MH in hot weather, but as we’re on the road about half the year, mainly during the summer, we worry about the park electric going off. (Our AC units manage to throw breakers from time to time.) The heat in some areas could become deadly, so how do some of you handle it? Our rig is a 2003 40’ Damon Escaper MH with a Onan 7500 genset.

Thanks for the info!

CarlAda, Thanks for the tip. It does seem like it just might be time to sit my butt down on a "milking stool" when I'm going to be sitting for a while. Thanks!

Wayne, Thanks for the info. I bookmarked the valve-stem site and intend to check it out a little more latter today. I'm also going to see what I can do about hooking into my onboard compressor. If it fills at the rate you said, then using my 6-gal, 150 psi compressor is probably giving me about all it can. I'm afraid I'm needing all the tips I can get due to growing old. My hips were telling me I stayed too long in the awkward positions trying to get the job done. I can testify that growing old ain't for sissies! And by the way, Simper Fi.

Tom, Thanks for the info. If only science or prayer would find a way to move my 30,000# MH on bicycle tires. I would definitely be one happy camper! About one second you say? My hands would sure appreciate that. I'm going to start looking for a locking chuck, but I'm concerned about damage to the valve stem grooves. Again thanks to everyone for the responses!

Thanks for the responses. I have set the tank to 150 psi, and that helped. I have been able to get the tires pressured up at the cost of one TPMS unit. The Schrader valve core twisted out of alignment. I started removing the pass-through TPMS valves and that also helped. The seems to go up about 3 psi a minute. That seems awful slow compared to a car tire. Maybe I'm just getting old and the arthritis makes it hard to hold that much pressure tight against the valve. At any rate I seven tires aired, but one refuses to gain even with the TPMS valve removed. I'm guessing the problem is with the added valve extender. I plan to remove it tomorrow and see what happens.

My tank is rated for a 150 psi and the tires need a 110.

I feel a little on the stupid side to be asking for help on something we've done for years or decades, put air in car tires, but I'm new to truck tires on an RV. I can' to get a some of the tires to accept air. I've used four different air tools but no success. I have a pressure gage that will read the air pressure, so I assume that if air will come out it should go in. I tried turning the valve core a turn, no luck. The inner dually is where I'm having the most trouble. I'm guessing it has to do with valves being stacked on top of valves. The first valve that mates to the tire, an extender valve, and a TPMS valve. I have a tire that is losing a pound or two a week and need to get some air into it. Suggestions?

I think I selected the wrong word. I really didn't mean to imply that trucks should be drafted behind. I was trying to avoid writing a long dissertation, and I was talking about a car, not something almost as heavy as a truck. In fog the truck should be followed as far back as possible to get as much reaction time as possible, the tail light should just barely be visible. The heavier truck will obviously require greater stopping distance than a lighter car just as a supertanker will require more ocean to stop in than a small power boat. Even in fog we have people tailgating and that IS NOT what I meant by saying "tuck in," I should have said "follow as far behind as vision will allow." Out here in our valley our fog gets so bad that at times you can only see two white road strips in front of you, and going too slow is also a big danger as there are drivers who believe they can drive as fast as they want as long as they can keep it on road. Chuck

While every post was spot on, I agree that Tom's had a bunch of good tips. While reading the posts, it occurred to me that in addition to helping me, other beginners will be helped as these great posts will pop up when others do a search for safe-passing practices as I did before post my plea for help. They'll find these suggestions where I found nothing. In the spirit of helpfulness (hopefully), I will add some safe-driving advice for limited vision conditions. About the only really hazardous weather I've experienced is VERY dense fog, and the survival tips we tend to follow is of course increased stopping distance, but also tuck in behind a truck and follow them. Their size will cause them to take longer to stop, clearing a path in those multicar pileups. Of course in a MH that weights 31,000# my stopping distance might be as long as theirs ;-) Chuck

Thanks again for taking time to post! All good advice! Chuck

We're rushing to get work done on the "BC" (BC= Big Car; we call it that because that's how we think our dogs think of it ;-) because we will start being full-time half timers at the end of this month, if our home clears escrow. I've been driving it every few days now to have work done on it and to load it. I've noticed the camera does come on, just very slow to come into focus. I think it using it as a supplement to the mirrors and keeping in mind all the tips, we should be okay. I have been concerned about having to change lanes in a hurry in big city traffic. No one escapes this world alive, so a moment of silence might be in order for us in a few weeks. We will face that big-city traffic come **** or ...

All good advice, and thanks!

Thanks for all the replies! Seeing all the dinghies on the road, I know it's got to be possible with some degree of safety. One of my problems is the camera seems to be hit and miss, and the few times I've driven the MH I haven't yet figured out if it's a button problem or sometime else like beginner stupidity on my part. I'm concerned that the mirrors might not give me idea of just how many feet of space I have after passing if I can't see any part of the dinghy. In crowded traffic that could be a real problem when a change lane is needed in a hurry.

This week I should have my car hooked to our motorhome, and this will my first time at towing a dingy. I've towed trailers a bunch of time, but there is a big difference. I've never had a problem seeing the trailer, but the dingy will not be visible in the rear view (or will end of be visible?). Are there any tips or practices that help judge the distance as to when it is okay to pull over after passing? Our MH is a 40' DP Thanks, Chuck

I think I have it ... the GFI. Thanks