ragdahl

You said the "magic" word - visitor. Frequency is not the problem: 1) CA residency; 2) CA driver's license; 3) length of stay are the problems. If you maintain your residency and driver's license in California, then as a resident of the State you "MUST" conform to all the DMV rules or be legally liable for breaking the Law and awarded the full penalties - jail time. With an LLC as the owner of the vehicle, the LLC is liable for registering the vehicle in the State of California if the vehicle spends most of its time within the State. Example; Greyhound buses and Trucking firms pay a pro-rated license fee for such vehicles. This is the decision: "How do I want to break the Law" and "What are the consequences". The alternative is not to break the law, but MOVE legally out of California and return to "VISIT and VISIT ONLY". No working or paying California employment taxes or income taxes! Moving Out-of-State does not require to give up your California property but does require to make a "Legal" (in court) showing that you have moved out-of-state. This "Legal" showing will require you physically being out-of-state verifiable with hotel, motel or RV park receipts for more than 50% of the time - especially if you continue to maintain the former California Residency Address. From reading between the lines of your e-mail, it does not sound like you are in a position to move-out-of-state and you definitely did not research this issue prior to buying the new RV. This after-the-fact position makes this whole issue more difficult - assuming the vehicle is already registered in your personal name California is now in the "Gotcha" position. You most likely have a "Temporary Oregon" license pending final registration in your Home State. If the LLC in Montana (LIMITED LIABILITY CORPORATION) being a separate business/ownership (other than you personally) owns the vehicle, you personally can not register the vehicle in the State of California after the LLC has maintained the vehicle for a year - you as an individual can own the vehicle for the year "if you" travel for a year out of state (and have receipts to prove the travel time). Other wise, you personally must move legally out of state and maintain this legal residency for a year or more and RE-ENTER California as a new resident and then this vehicle (which you have owned for over a year) becomes a non-sales taxable item. This is where the State of California says "Gotcha"! This not legal advice, but the decision to "stretch the law" does place you into some serious jeopardy positions.

Hi Rick, Are you leaving the State of California? That means, selling your current residential property and changing you voting address (California uses voting address as one means of establishing residency), and giving up your CA drivers license. If none of these apply, then you are still a California resident and the DMV gives you 20 days to register a vehicle purchased out-of-state. So, you can go through the process to establish a Montana LLC, pay the several hundreds of dollars to establish the LLC and then pay an annual LLC maintenance fee - perhaps a mailing service fee as well (not sure of todays rules). BUT, you still can only VISIT California and if the local police and/or CHP see the vehicle parked for weeks - expect a HUGE fine for not adhering to the 20 day rule. Go to http://www.dmv.ca.gov/ or http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/howto/htvr9.htm#feesdue for information about the 20 day rule. Hope this helps the information quest - it will not help the fact your license fee went up 30% - mine did. Richard Valley Springs, CA 95252

rbzz, Sorry about the Chev/Ford mix up; it is about as bad a reference as calling your Porsche a Volkswagen. Without the Banks engine chip and transmission chip, I feel about the same as you do and agree with most of what you have said. Where abouts are you located? What model Porsche? I used to race (Autocross) my Porsche 1959 "A" Coupe while a member of the PCA - Golden Gate Chapter San Francisco. Dropped out of the Club in 1966 when my job was taking me throughout the US for months on end. The car was still Concourse show able (including original bumpers) and was the only one still around that had the factory chrome Knock-Off spinner hubs when I sold it in 1985. We had some great times in the car - selling brings back some terrible memories. Richard

Tom, That is one of my pet peeves, and then lo and behold on my very first post - Yep I did it. Sorry, but I am catching up fast as I can and hopefully in the next few days will have more information about us. Of course, I am so new I am still learning how to navigate all the Forum bells and whistles. Thanks for bringing this basic courtesy up - my second peeve is spelling.

Rbuzz95, What a horror story and with an oil leak that continually rubs salt into the open wound. Here is what I would do to fix the oil leak: 1: Go to my local Ford dealer with VIN Number; Engine Year; etc. and purchase the "O" ring that is probably missing at the bottom of the dip stick where it enters into the pan. 2: Remove the dip stick tube; there is an attaching bolt at the bottom and the top. 3: Check for the existing "O" ring. If in removing the dip tube housing the "O" ring is not on the tube, feel inside the area where the tube inserts and see if the "O" ring is stuck inside. During the original installation procedure, the "O" ring was probably stuck inside and when the dip tube was re-installed the "O" ring dropped into the pan. I know this is not a job you will enjoy (I wouldn't) because this is something you paid hard cash for. But I personally would feel much better it this was my oil leak and "I" fixed it when the "SOB" did not do the job right in the first place. Hope this is the solution - if not, I tried and really feel bad for you as the rest of the group does. Hurt one of us and you hurt us all. Richard Dahl F180829 2003 Dynamax "Isata 250SL" Valley Springs, CA

Paul, I do not know anything about the Xantrex unit you are referring to BUT with a new purchase you should be sure that the battery charger control has a "temperature compensated" feature. This is a MUST have when purchasing a new battery charger, especially with AGM batteries. Temperature compensation measures the battery temperatures and allows for higher charging voltages without boiling the battery liquid - a must to achieve full battery charge I suggest you go to http://www.amsolar.com web site and open up "Education" section and read it all. It is by far the best reading in a tenderfoot's (me) language. Bret Wolfe mentioned the Isolator and I consider it maybe more important than the battery charger. Our 2003 Dynamax coach is on a Ford Econoline Cut-Away Chassis with a V-10 for power. This unit had Ford's upgraded alternator (130 amp) and Dynamax used Intellitec Specialty's Solenoid Type Coach/Chassis Isolator and this unit is very Multi-Functional. (1)The unit allows the Motor Alternator to charge the Coach batteries (and provides power for the small invertor I use for our TV; DVD; Sound System; and Computer) when driving down the road. Unfortunately the voltage of the alternator is controlled by the chassis battery requirements, therefore even though the alternator will put out a 14.2 volts it usually operates at a 13.4 volts. (2) When plugged into shore power, the unit permits the house converter (battery charger) to also charge the chassis battery. (3) You have a "coach storage" manual on/off switch to isolate the two battery systems (coach/chassis) so you will not discharge both at the same time during coach storage. (4) During dry camping, you use BOTH Chassis and Coach system until the voltage drops to 11.8 volts and then the Isolator seperates the two battery systems (the Isolator measures both battery system voltages). (5) If either battery system is below 11.8 volts at ANY TIME the Isolator keeps the two systems seperated - this means if driving down the road and the alternator cannot maintain both systems above 11.8 volts due to load (head lights; driving lights; running lights; and house inverter loads) the systems are seperated and if the house inverter is on you will run down the house batteries. Now the Isolator lets you manually close both relays momentarily to start your generator using the chassis battery as a power source. This momentary control can also be used to power the chassis battery should in not have power enough to start your engine. I look forward to replacing our inverter/converter to a new temperature compensated model. I have changed out our two 12volt wet cell batteries for two larger 6 volt AGM that provide 75% more amp/hour storage capacity. But our battery charger only puts out 13.4 volts and therefore, we do not properly maintain the charge for the batteries. Richard Dahl F180829 2003 Dynamax Isata 250SL Ford V-10 Gas Valley Springs, CA

I keep a supply of "pink" anti-freeze solution just for the purpose of adding to all sink and tub drains. The anti-freeze solution (propylene glycol) does not evaporate and will act as a lubricant to valve seals.