MadHungarian
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Posts posted by MadHungarian
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I was wondering if anyone has any experience with motor scooters behind their coach. Thinking about getting a little Honda of some sort that we can use to putt around town. Any recommendations?
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Mine USED to work on DC while we were traveling, but suddenly quit working. Thanks for the download kayp - appreciate it.
Been in touch with the Dinosaur Electronics people - gonna try to get off early tomorrow so we can do some diagnostics over the phone......
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We just got back from vacation, and during our trip we discovered that our Norcold fridge will not operate on 12 volts. Works fine on LP and AC, but will not work off the house battery. I pulled the cover off the back of the fridge today and did some testing with my multimeter. I have AC and DC to the board. The 5 volt control fuse is not blown, and I have control power at the front panel display - the panel is operational and self-diagnoses. I'm suspecting that the board may have laid down on us for some silly reason, as the unit used to work fine in all modes. I checked the Norcold recalls and this unit isn't listed. Anyone have a similar issue with a 900 series Norcold? Need to get this thing working on house / vehicle power to keep our burgers and bee...ummm, "cool, refreshing beverages" cold when we go to Bowling Green this weekend.....
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Greetings Shipmates - and to all veterans!!
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Depends..... I would say that if you're not afraid of getting your hands dirty and doing things yourself, then you might make out pretty well if the money side of it is okay and it seems reliable. You never know - could just be stuff that has loosened up over the years (like that mirror!). I would seriously look in all the cubbyholes in the unit and see if there is anything just loose and flopping around before I plunked down my cash......
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Not sure I agree with that earlier statement that altitude does not reduce power on a turbo charged diesel engine. If somebody has driven up over 5000ft then you wouldn't say that. I have a Detroit Series 60 and when climbing up over 5000 ft there is a definite reduction of power and up over 7000 ft it is even more noticable. My turbo is showing 42 lbs of boost the whole time and I keep it at the peak horsepower RPM when climbing and the higher I get the less power I have. There is only so much that turbo can do to compensate for the thin air.
I'm certainly no engineer, but in theory, the turbocharger remedies the altitude problem by compressing the air back to sea-level pressures in order to produce rated power at higher altitudes. The altitude at which the engine is producing full power is known in aviation terms as the critical altitude. When the vehicle is above that altitude, engine power output will decrease as altitude increases just as it would in a naturally aspirated engine.Actually, if I'm not mistaken, it's the quantity of air molecules at altitude that effect performance, not barometric or turbocharger pressure.
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Wondering if your fuel rail is inside the engine like some of the old designs. I've seen those "make" oil from inside the engine from a leaking rail. Also, as Huffy says, idling a cold diesel is not a good thing to do either.
(But it's nowhere near as bad as some dufus using ether on a compression ignition engine. Ask me how I know....
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Umm, there shouldn't be a connection. Are you sure you don't have a faucet leaking?
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Yes, the fresh water tank "holds" water and is a fresh water holding tank. There are also black and grey holding tanks which serve different purposes.
I do understand the sick sense of humor, however!
He gotcha Bill !!
I didn't even catch that - must be getting tired from all this heat. Way to go shipmate!! 
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I use drink, cook and shower with the water in our holding tanks. There is no reason not to do so if your tanks and plumbing are clean. The tanks are plastic just like the plastic in the water bottles everyone thinks are the bee knees. Water out of a plastic tank and water out of a plastic bottle is all the same if it is properly cared for.
Now, I do have to say that I have only been doing this every single day since 1999 so I'm pretty new to this stuff.
That's cool - not saying you're wrong .... just saying I've seen where the public water supply comes from!!
Got my new pump today and installed it... works perfect - no runs, no drips, no errors!!
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Honestly, I wouldn't drink the water that comes out of the tank - or the city water supply either - without running it through a purifier of some sort. I'd SHOWER in it, but I wouldn't DRINK it. I've been in a couple of the big steel "potable water" storage tanks (yeah - the big ones you see in the countryside), and after seeing what's actually IN the tanks after they've been drained, I now have a faucet water purifier in the house. You are probably going to have to flush the system a lot and keep bleaching the tank, unless someone else has any other suggestions.
BTW - Got a new Surflo Revolution on Ebay for $63.00 and free shipping!! Luvin' it!
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Pick up a Shurflo pump like this one and the connections you have there will connect without modifications. Connect the wiring back up and you will have water flowing in no time.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/shurflo-revolution-water-pump/49007
Thanks Bill - yeah, I was looking at the Revolution and some 2088's on Ebay. Not badly priced, so I'm gonna get mine ordered tonight.
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I'm apparently either getting old - and blind - or I just didn't remember seeing the wiring. The pump obviously goes in that spot, now I just need to figure out what pump to get...
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Just for general info, figured I'D contribute my $.02...
Fuel "polishing" very rarely cleans algae out of fuel - unless you have a very large and very tight micron filter assembly, somewhere in the 1-5 micron range, which is relatively unheard of in the automotive industry. The company I work for filters both diesel and jet at places like tank farms and airports in the millions-of-gallons range, and since these types of facilities turn fuel over at a very high rate, algae growth isn't much of an issue. We do, however, get algae growth and water/particulate contamination in some of our mobile equipment tanks from time to time due to inactivity. We usually either treat tanks with Biebor JF or, if the contamination is really bad, we drain the tanks and discard the waste fuel. We have recently begun equipping all of our equipment with drain valves and camlock fittings at the tank drains so that we can connect one of our small filtering units and a pump to the tank and circulate the fuel through a coalescer/particulate filter. This helps remove the moisture that promotes algae growth and also helps clean the tank surfaces inside the tank. We normally drain off the bottom of the tank, filter the fuel, then pump the fuel back into the fill port on the tank, effectively "rinsing" the tank and circulating the contamination particles towards the drain assembly so it can be filtered. This usually results in very clean fuel and tanks for about two years, depending on where one buys fuel and what the quality is.
As a word of advice, I'll say this, although many of you probably know this already: STAY AWAY from "Mom and Pop" stations when you buy fuel, if you can. Their tanks NEVER EVER get cleaned, and as a result they are usually moisture contaminated (along with mud, dirt, gravel, etc.) because their fuel doesn't get turned over as often.
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Testing getting ready to travel? Do you mean this is your first time looking or there used to be a pump and now there is no longer one?
The "usual" setup would be a water pump located pretty close to the tank and all the associated plumbing would run from there into the coach. You will (should) find 12V wiring somewhere near where the water pump(s) are/were located which will help you identify where thing should have been. Do you see where the water lines go after leaving the area where the fresh water tank output is located?
Well Bill, I can only "assume" that there used to be a pump there, as they have the fresh water tank disconnected from the rest of the system and capped on both sides. Looks to me like there was some kind of mechanism there at one time, because the lines aren't cut - just capped. The rest of the plumbing is intact. I didn't see any loose wires laying in that area, so that's what has me wondering what should be there. The former owner had also disconnected the fresh water tank gravity fill line - good thing I started checking things, as the tank and most of the plumbing are under the rear bunk area. Had I started gravity filling the tank from the fill port it would have poured water straight into the power converter, as it's located in the rear bunk area as well. Probably a good thing we were dry camping when we used the rig at Road Atlanta in February!
I'll try to get a photo of what I'm talking about and post it up tomorrow evening.
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We were doing some system testing on the Coachmen the other day in preparation for summer travel, and I noticed that the feed line from the fresh water holding tank has been disconnected from the rest of the system. I'm assuming that at one time the fresh water pump was mounted there, although I haven't found any pump wires. Would I be correct in assuming the pump should be mounted between the tank and the rest of the system, or is there an isolator/check valve that goes there? Any ideas?
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Look for the ground tang to be broken off in the socket and shorting the socket across the two terminals under the bulb. Ran into that on my Chevy chassis when I installed LED's. Also could be that the solder has melted on the bulb terminals and is shorting the socket terminals.
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In my shop I have the extractor tool, taps for new seats and 6 mm camera to see what I'm doing. I expect at least one at each spark plug change.
Brett what Rich is talking about the Triton 3 valve engine with the extended spark plugs. The non Triton engine have normal spark plugs and not without problems. The non Triton have only a few threads to hold plug in and strips easy.
Hint for Triton 3 valve engines, pull vacuum line and suck a can of seafoam slowly into engine at idle and then let set overnight before removing plugs. I never had plugs break after doing that. Use Champion replacement spark plugs for replacement for they are solid not crimped on like Motorcraft. When installing put anti seize on both body and threads of spark plugs so no problem to remove later.
I hate, hate, hate doing plugs in these engines - not because of the plugs breaking when trying to remove them, but because of trash and small stones becoming lodged in the spark plug recess - especially when our company trucks have been out on the road under less than ideal conditions. I always take a shop vac and try to remove any foreign objects from the recess first before attempting to remove the plug, as this ensures that nothing will fall into the cylinder. If you manage to get the socket around the flats on the plug, there's still a chance that something can fall in.
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Sad......
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Got the new Sensar mounted up yesterday and hooked up. It's awesome - picking up HD channels as far away as Nashville, which is about 80 miles from here! Amazingly clear for the distance. I highly recommend this antenna if you need a replacement!!
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Dean, not to butt in, but let me ask you this - you say your fan is blowing and it blows off your hat, but, just for grins, can you tell us if heat is actually exiting the engine compartment? Like most vehicles, and especially modern cars, trucks and industrial equipment, everything that's packed and crammed into the engine compartment is dependent upon cooling air entering and exiting. Is there an inlet/outlet that may be clogged? Does your diesel have a cold shroud in front of the radiator that isn't opened all the way? Just asking....
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Yes, it was an utter failure on their part. We recovered the $$$ spent when we sold the patent to the French Navy.
Ahhh yes... the French Navy....forgot about those guys. If I remember correctly, I think Citroen got the rights of manufacture.........
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Thanks for the info y'all. The coach is an '86, but I just bought my new TV in January, so it should be HD ready. Should be able to pull power for the antenna from the existing amplifier leads. Might even be able to hook up a warning buzzer and light over the dining area, since it would power up when the coach power came on KOEO.
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Actually, MadHungarian.....the design flaw would be in ships that are not designed to surface after submerging
True that!! I have heard rumors that post WWII the Electric Boat Company experimented with a screen-door design seized from the now defunct Deutches Zinken Und Schwimmen Unterseeboot Fabriken Werks during the war, but it was supposedly a flawed design and the prototype never finished her maiden voyage ......
New "Retro" Winnie Owners
in All About You
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Congratulations! Almost looks like a Tonka truck version!!