rhart
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Posts posted by rhart
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Well worth a few sq ft of storage to avoid spending time in laundromats I'm thinking.
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Do I have to stick with only compact apt size units?? My hope was to use a real washer and real dryer. Is there any way to install a home W/D?
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Since conventional wisdom has the 'all in one' W/D as not hearty enough to keep you out of laundromats my question is this:
Is it possible to install "real" (useful in the sense that they work as home units) washer and dryer in a 40 foot DP.
If so what do I need to look for when going out to purchase the DP. We are leaning towards a 40' Monaco or Newmar if this makes a difference.
Thanks in advance for any helpful tips.
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Bob
I have them and have used them twice for flat bedding small sports cars. No experience with big rigs. They were OK for the smaller vehicles.
Rick
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Ha. Only one reason to tow a Cayenne. Put 10,000 miles on it without the engine running might bring the average MPG up to 8.5 or so. (Its a Turbo and I use the gas gauge as the speedometer.) At least I can go from the Cayenne TT and into a 42 footer or so and not go much backwards with MPG.
We thought briefly of towing a 356 but it wouldn't hold much overflow from MH and wouldn't be worth a **** exploring old fire roads in the back country. Hence looking at something like you tow.
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I'll be towing with 4 down. Thankfully with experience towing a 20' enclosed trailer but only with a Porsche Cayenne. May I ask what the danger is backing with a toad? Does it jack knife quickly?? Can you get away with a couple of feet if the rig is straight and kept straight?
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Will do. I see you drive a 45 footer. What is AMC? I can't find it on rvtrader.
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Hi Carl
Def. decided to go 40 to 42' DP. I posted to you on my other thread...
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Timely question. I'm glad I started this 6 months early. We have now morphed to towing. Since we decided to tow we have decided to get a 40-42 foot DP. Now we can concentrate in ernest on the target. Yesterday we looked at an 02 Monaco Signature and a HR 03. It is remarkable how good a 12 yr old coach can look when well made from the get go. So Bird, Monaco, Newmar, HR, Beaver and Country Coach are the targets. I still have 120 days to make a decision. It was helpful to hear the horror stories of new delivery customers of Forest River. This helped push us to better older quality.
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I understand that. Is there a formula I can use to determine if a coach SHOULD have a tag? I'm sure there are some coaches out there that are on the cusp.
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It looks like you are from CA. They do have agressive Lemon Laws here. Google Lemon Law CA and make yourself aware of the 4 or 5 items you need to file. (You easily will qualify). Then google for a good law firm that specializes in LW but doesn't do too much seedy advertising. Before engaging them tell the dealer...."We can do this the easy way or the hard way". They will probably refund your money without hiring a law firm. Your should get your money back. You do NOT have to have them "fix" the coach.
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Thank you for your answers Brett. May I ask one more? What is the point at which you need a tag axle on a coach? Seems like a 40 to 42' coach sometimes has a tag but usually does not. Is there a guideline from which to work?
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Is there one or the other that is considered to be an engine to stay away from? Or are you trepidatious about answering because one of your friends has one.
Any person you may insult probably will not see your answer. Or perhaps this is a good question to answer via PM.Also is compression brake better or not as good as exhaust? A "jake brake" is which type?
I appreciate your answers to these newbie questions.
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My common sense tells me that the window prop concept while nice on paper is probably not practical. First you have to waste valuable seconds finding it. Another second to two placing it. How do you keep from bumping it on bailout? When flames and smoke are close you will easily squirm through even a heavy window. You don't need to get clobbered by a heavy window half way out. Better to slide through a window that will move up and down with your body.
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Hi Brett
DDEC
DSSP
ISL
ISB
Since I'm starting with a clean slate is there an engine from which it is wise to stay away? I'm told diesels should go 1,000,000 miles but I'm sure they must need to be rebuilt every so many miles. Is there a rule of thumb? 200,000 to 300,000 miles? I notice coaches with 60,000 miles on them are way more expensive than 120,000 mile rigs by many 10's of thousands of dollars. Suggesting it is very expensive to rebuild a diesel engine.
Thanks for your input
Rick
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In 5 or 6 mos. I plan to buy a 2000 to 2004 or so bus. Newmar, Country Coach, Monaco type class A. I've read with interest this whole thread. In addition to trying to understand the difference in these buses I need to learn the different type diesel engines. Is there a place you long timers can refer me to in order to learn things like what DD means? I know what DP means but I get lost with all the other abbreviations.
Also I suppose it would be impossible to find out "bad years" or "bad engines"to stay away from??
Thank you
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One good turn deserves another. Home Depot has emergency ladders in a box. Probably not rope but if you have to use it you may not worry about some scratches.
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So you are sound asleep in the rear bed. Fire breaks out in the galley. (Between you and the only door.) I'm curious what the escape plan shoud be. Do "they" make one of the windows so it can be readily kicked out? Just curious. For obvious reason.
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I do a lot of mechanical inspections on coaches.
It is the "dock queens" that sit most of their lives that show more mechanical problems than the higher mile coaches. Those that sit for a year or more (very low mileage) are the worse.
Miles WITH, repeat WITH good preventive maintenance is not an issue for a DP. You may be able to kill a diesel, but it is very unlikely that you will wear it out.
Hi Wolfe
You are too far from SoCal. Can you refer me to a good person to do an inspection in this neck of the woods?
Thank you
Rick
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My two cents! I personally think extended warranty plans are not a good value because the majority of insurers do not play fair. It has been my experience that the insurance contracts are designed to enable the insurer to decline payment a substantial part of the time on items that you need to have covered. For instance, a friend had a engine fail catastrophically, metal shards all thru the engine. The insurer paid for the rebuild but would not pay for removal and overhaul of turbo because it had not failed. Within 10k miles the rebuilt engine failed again along with the turbo as a result of metal shards apparently in the turbo that spread through the engine again. Neither the rebuilder nor the insurer would stand by the repair. Had they authorized the flush ad tear down of the entire engine as is recommended by Cummins the second breakdown would likely not have occurred.
Read the fine print, talk to your RV dealer (that does not sell extended warranties) service manager and get information as to which insurers pay for repairs without incident. Check with service people as to whether policy covers items necessary, components that frequently fail.
When buying a used RV I have in the past accepted a extended warranty that I could get out of easily to drive the vehicle back home and to get some idea as to the condition of the vehicle. Once I was confident that the RV was OK, I canceled policy.
Which company have you found to be easy to chop?
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rlbarkleyii is spot on. His post shows wisdom and a well thought out plan.
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I bought used class a with 80k. Wanted something someone else had worked the bugs out of. My 2001 National now has 109k and no troubles. Used if well maintained is going to get you more for your money.
How you are going to use it will make a big difference between a C or an A.
If you are buying from a dealer you can often get a warranty also.
Soderquist,
What sort of warranty should I expect on a 2000 to 2005 high quality Class A? I didn't think there were any warranty being given on anything that old.
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Both above posts are most helpful. Thank you so much.
I hauled vintage cars in an enclosed 20' trailer for years and learned they will try to hem you in. I carry a couple of orange cones to block off some space and they have never been messed with. I'll try that with my new train. I also put a decal sign on the rig that says in case of emergency call so and so number. This has saved me a couple of times and has given me a chance to go move my rig before tow. I guess the beast will be pretty much the same only much larger and without the ability to reverse. Common sense will prevail along with great ideas above.
Thank you for the input.
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We've decided to stop hunting for 30' Class C and get a DP instead. With a small toad it will be a challenge to park I'm sure. If pulling into Anytown USA for the day just where DO you park the train? We rented a large Class C years ago and I don't remember an issue but a 60' rig has to change the parking dynamics. Not made any easier by the fact we have to leave the gen going to AC the dog.
Just what do you big rig folks do for parking?
Thank you
Update On Camping World Fiasco
in Type A motorhomes
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Herman is spot on with sage advice. Pay particular attn to his comment regarding the credit card strategy.