cmarq
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Posts posted by cmarq
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Connecticut is one of the top two states for corrosives. DOT says it up to us to keep the undercarriage washed. Thankfully I don't drive the motor home in winter here. Our three plow trucks require brake line inspections every year we do find coating the undercarriages with Fluid Film helps. Wonder why so many people are leaving CT Taxes and this?
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Find the leak before any repairs, I had 40 years at Cummins Ct. There are many places coolant can get into the oil. If you do any disassembly before finding the leak you have are playing the guessing game.
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I tried them and was told they will only say they are not more than 4 years old, I went to tires direct and got 6 Toyos 245/75 22.5. $1,750.00 Free shipping and 120 days old or less. I have a local local trucking company I did some favors for they will mount and balance.
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I agree with desertdeals Toyos are a good tire. I just got 6, 245/75 22.5 Toyos from tires direct. $1700.00 shipping was free. I am lucky to have a friend that will mount and balance for me. I also ordered centramatics for steers
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Just as much at home in our motor home as we are in stick home sometimes more.
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Mine is in my yard on a crushed stone pad 30 amp plug, climate controlled by mother nature.
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Use Fluid Film available at Lowes & Home Depot, NAPA. It is a lanolin based penetrant and lubricant. no solvents long lasting non toxic non hazardous. It comes in a spray can with straw for tight places. It will work here in Connecticut we do snowplowing we buy in gallons and with a sprayer made for it we spray all the undersides of our trucks. We spread salt on parking lots and the chemicals the state uses on the roads are very corrosive it does a great job protecting our equipment. After every storm everything gets washed down nothing freezes up.
www.fluid-film.com
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Just my 2 cents. The corrosion issue causing liner jacking referred to may be liner pitting on the coolant side of the liner. When I started working for Cummins Ct in 1964 it was a big problem. It was thought to be from tiny air bubbles caused by slight flex of the liner when the cylinder fired. Back then it was common to find liners with holes all the way through allowing coolant into the cylinder. When liners were removed some would look like a shotgun blasted them. After the use of SCA's in the cooling system the problem seemed to be solved. The only time we saw the issue was when the SCA's were not maintained. Just a thought. I have been retired 15 years now so I don't know how the newer generation engines are.
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Just a FYI. Home Depot has Rust Reformer Automotive, same stuff but the can has all angle spray tip. Easier to use underneath.
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X2 for Rust Reformer. It does work well.
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Herman, Happy Birthday. I understand your comment about residential fridge but we are in one spot for 2-3 weeks and sometimes need to leave the coach for 2 days. I have solar and run a Honda 2000i when we are there, but my battery bank is only two 6V golf cart batteries and it would be very difficult to add more I could get them in but service on them would be a nightmare. The other factor was the remodel to get a residential unit in. Replacing the cooling unit was our best option.. I agree with the comment The Amish replacement cooling units are expensive but when you look at the blogs about refurbished units vs the Amish unit it was worth the cost to me. My unit is a side by side and all the info I found said those units are not a good candidate for refurbish. I paid $1300. which included $150. in freight. I am fortunate my work background allowed me to do all the work myself. If our camping habits were different I would consider the residential unit but I think this was our best option. As I said I am very happy with the way it works, it is a big improvement over the original unit.
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I have the Dometic side by side in my 2003 Pace Arrow. A little over a year ago it failed. I found replacement units would require modifying the cabinet. We dry camp 95% of the time so a residential unit was out. After a lot of research I went with a Amish cooling unit. I did the work myself and have been very happy with the way it works. I did add two fans to the vent while it was out. I would recommend the Amish cooling unit as replacement.
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I don't know on the 24 v ISB, Cummins does supply some engines with everything it depends on the order from the end user. They also supply engines with no accessories the end user assumes that because it is engine mounted it came from Cummins, Yours is easier for parts a Cummins service facility can look up parts by serial number. Things that were not supplied by Cummins they will have no info on. I still get calls from people that knew me asking why can't Cummins tell me the belt number, for my alternator.
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They did use different types over the years, I retired 15 years ago so I don't remember all of them the old "B" used car type diaphragm pump. Later ones used a style that had check valves this was very susceptible to failures caused by debris. They have used electric lift pumps-- the feeling was they all needed protection from rust and debris. Just my own opinion but if the primary filter is before any pump they are not needed they were intended to protect the lift pumps that were before those filters.
As has been mentioned before the truck or motorhome mfg. may think one is necessary. The problem is Cummins makes the engine it goes to the end user and they decide what filters to use and where. Cummins gives recommendations but they may or may not be followed. It created a lot of problems when I was a service manager when you tell a customer the oil pressure sender or starter, alternator, and other items were not supplied by Cummins and I could not warranty the part or labor.
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When I worked for Cummins those filters were used to protect the primary lift pump which were like a automotive fuel pump. rust and debris would clog the valves. They are usually are in the main line from fuel tank and do tend to be hidden and not readily accessible.
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I am looking for input on a 2006 Four Winds Magellan 38E by Thor. I have a 2003 Pace Arrow 37A and I like the quality of it. We are looking at the 2006 Magellan it is on the Workhorse chassis with 8.1 Vortec and Allison which the Pace Arrow has. I know I have 22,000 lb chassis the Magellan has 24,000.
We like the layout and features of the Magellan but I know nothing of the quality of Four Winds and Thor.
Anyone have any experience with four winds or Thor? Thanks
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Living in CT and using your routes often, I would suggest 95 to Saybrook then up Rt9 (easy merge just over CT river bridge.) No traffic on rt9 except at 8am rush in Middletown. Rt 9 merges right into 91 north, It may be a few miles more but a much easier drive.
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I installed the Amish cooling unit in my domestic ndr1292 in March. Need help getting unit out and back to wall. Everything else I did. Take your time and lots of pictures before disassembly. The replacement unit has a bracket to mount temp switch for fans I put in two fans at the top chimney 85 cfm each and only draw .25 amps each. It performs much better than original domestic unit.
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My 2 cents for what it is worth. I spent 40 years working for Cummins in CT. Several of which were as service mgr, and many as a factory trained and certified instructor. It was always a problem to get good techs and for a lot of reasons. Cummins held several forums on this and some of the answers were young people can no longer work much on their cars, years ago kids hung around gas stations and worked on cars, developing a interest in mechanics today that doesn't happen. With the technology in today's cars trucks RVs etc it is very hard to get a job as a tech without training. Private tech schools are expensive and don't keep up with technology (I was on advisory boards to several) after school and in debt they will spend $5,000 and up on a large tool box with no tools. The pay scale to start is barely above poverty levels and when someone asks what you do and you say I'm a diesel or RV tech you get "Oh". I don't see any changes in the near future. Everything is about college education and nothing for the trades. I rarely need to take my car or RV to a shop but when I do I always get a signed written estimate with the statement only repairs listed are to be done if other parts or work is required they need my written OK. It is a pain but there are no big surprises.
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I agree with Huff, My 30 amp breaker is in basement and it would be difficult to locate outside. My 30 amp Progressive hard wire delays input until everything has been checked. Saves me a lot of running.
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No problem I am 73. Ibuprofen in my tool box and I'm ready. Thanks for the idea of a stand I will do that. I am going to take the doors off the handles don't look like they will take the weight. If they break parts for the NDR1292 are scarce. Time is not a problem as I have 7 Saturdays and I do have help to do the lifting.
The Dometic NDR1292 is discontinued and I thought about going residential but I only have 2 6Volt GC batteries no room for more and 95% of our camping is dry 3 weeks at a time. I have solar but would need a lot more. I do have 2 fans at the top of the refer vent with a 135 degree thermistor on the coils they move a lot of air. I am going to order the interior fan, I hope it goes well once it is done I found a experienced person to help me install my laminate floating floor, Thanks again for the advice.
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I just ordered a new Amish cooling unit for a Dometic NDR 1292 double door fridge in my 2003 Pace Arrow, I want to do this myself.
Has anyone done this? I would like advice cautions etc. I did get the instructions from supplier and looked at You Tube video.
But first hand advice is helpful.
Thanks
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Rich has the correct info.
I retired from Cummins 12 years ago. When a fault or problem occurs a code is created and the check engine light indicates there is a problem but is drivable with caution and get it checked as soon as you can.
The red stop engine light indicates a serious problem and should be shut down as soon as it is safe to do so. If a problem occurs momentarily the light comes on and goes out, A fault code is created and is stored in the ecm. it is called an inactive code and can not be accessed by the switches. It has to be read with a diagnostic tool. If the check engine light stays on it is an active code and can be read using the switches.
All codes are stored in the ecm until cleared with a diagnostic tool. The code is a numerical numbers called sids(sub system identifier) and pids (parameter identifier) these give the tech the info as to which system maybe the problem and causes, If the check engine light comes on and off at different times it keeps a count of how many times it happens. Just clearing or erasing the codes will not solve a problem.
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I was stationed at Ft Belvoir Va for several months I watched the changing of the guard at the tomb several times it is one of the most impressive things I have seen in my 73 year life. Any one going near Washington DC should see it,
Illuminated Entry Door Grab Handle
in Electrical
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The lighted handle on my 2003 pace arrow stopped working and a new one that had the pace arrow logo was $95.00. As Kaypsmith said you can take it apart mine the led bulb was bad. I could not find a replacement so I used a led replacement for a 194 bulb straightened the wires and connected to the wire feeding the handle. Polarity has to be checked. I insulated them stuck it back in (it doesn't show) and it works better than original. That was 4 years ago still good.